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SVE Aluminum cylinder heads??

66K views 60 replies 26 participants last post by  1trkpny  
#1 ·
#2 ·
no review on these, but

as with any assembled head, you are going to need to take it to a machine shop first

its better to buy bare and have your favorite shop do all the work, so they dont leak
 
#4 ·
Just finished installing these on my 93 the sve heads. Haven't driven it yet waiting to get my exhaust finished. Looks like good quality I used trick flow 1.6 roller rockers and has to do some measuring for pushrod length. Not sure why the other guy is saying that you have to take an assembled head to the Machine Shop.
 

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#9 ·
My brother bought a set of TrickFlow heads about a decade ago that had extra keepers inside a couple valve springs. Another guy I know bought a Ford crate 302 and when it didn't feel right on the engine stand to another friend they tore it down and discovered it wasn't really assembled right. It would have worked, probably for a long time, but it wasn't right.

Moral of the story.....you gotta check it out before you run it regardless of who built it.
 
#10 ·
Friend of mine bought a set of SVE's and slapped them on his coupe. Car runs good and is pretty strong.

Because I'm paranoid, I'd probably disassemble the heads and see how the guides feel and put a better quality steam seals in it. It's not like removing valve springs on the bench is all that difficult.
 
#56 ·
Friend of mine bought a set of SVE's and slapped them on his coupe. Car runs good and is pretty strong.

Because I'm paranoid, I'd probably disassemble the heads and see how the guides feel and put a better quality steam seals in it. It's not like removing valve springs on the bench is all that difficult.
LMR will not have these SVE SBF head any longer.
 
#11 ·
These are right of the website. Seem a little suspect. Has anyone done a truly independent test of them? They are probably a decent head for there price point. You aren't going to go be competitive in racing with them, but they are surely a step up from stock. If you temper your expectations with the reality of what you are buying you would probably be ok.

Image
 
#12 ·
I bought a set of these heads as well, not installed yet. Bought them simply for the price and to flow better than stock as I plan on a turbo kit. I will say this though, I took them out of the box filled exhaust ports with throttle body cleaner and had very little leakage through 2 valves on one head and only one on the other. I left them sit over night and didn't see any leakage until the next day. I've seen vids on much better heads leaking at every valve right out of the box instantly. I'm gonna run them out of box and see what happens. If I gotta tear down and rebuild so be it I suppose
 
#17 ·
As a stock replacement that is aluminum rather than iron, they are fine. All these really offer is a small bump in flow and some weight off the nose of the car.

Trouble is a lot of guys look a the flow numbers I found and shared above and then look at numbers for Trickflow and AFR heads and think they will deliver similar results. And that doesn't happen. Have not seen a setup that makes serious numbers running a set of these heads yet. Daily driver/cruse night special, these are probably good for that.
 
#19 ·
I see more and more people running them these days. Can't blame them at the price point.

I'm curious though, does anyone have a dyno graph in a common setup? I'm just curious how they would compare to a TFS170 for example
 
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#20 ·
You always have the money to do it right the 2nd time.
There is a reason AFR and TW heads cost what they do vs. chinee made crap.
I'd brown bag it a few weeks and get a proven set of heads.
 
#23 ·
if i add up their flow numbers and compare to my ported DOOE heads the DOOEs flow 40 cfm more. the ford head beats them on low lift numbers. over .500 lift they dont do much as the ford heads. port volume is much greater which on a small engine requires more rpm to be effective which usually results in loss of low end power. other thought is what intake are you going to use a VrJr only flows about 180 CFM bolted to a cylinder head flowing 235 CFM at a higher air speed than these large port heads on a 302.
 
#25 ·
what I am saying not max flow but total air flow. total air flow is what i look at max air flow might be higher but low lift numbers might be lower add it all up
.1 , .2 ,.3 ,.4 and .5 lift flow numbers this is what really counts.
Once flow numbers dont jump very much between lift points is because air flow is going turbulent
 
#27 ·
myself been porting heads for 54 years have learned and embraced things over the years learned by persons that had worked for companies that did port work, designed heads, had their own dynos to test theories, did experimental work for the big three, most dont have these advantages.
learned a lot about bigger isnt necessarily better but matching up air flow to usage, learning a lot about intakes air flow bolted to cylinder heads, learning the left side of an intake might need port work a bit different than the right side do to the heads port configuration to acquire the most even air flow. how air speed effects cylinder filling. how max lift is only reached once in a cycle other points twice. how as the piston pulls air through the valve opening as the piston drops might be real close to flow numbers but as it rises for the compression stroke how much does the flow or how soon does it drop or stagnate. could it actually blow some back into the intake valve.
 
#32 ·
Those ebay aluminium 600$ Heads are way better than any iron heads you will everr find.

I bet they make great power on a 302, they are 190cc with kinda big valves, and for the price 600$ for both heads, thats super cheap.

Thats 300$ per head, very cheap. I bet they make 350 fwhp on a 302 with good single plane intake .575 cam and 650 DP Carb with big long tubes headers.

If i was to do a budget build 302.

-Those 190cc Ebay heads
-Victor Jr intake
-TFS Stage 2 Camshaft
-Holley 650 DP carb
-1 3/4 BBK Long tubes