GLWS, I had my car listed for 2 years and not 1 nibble.
Area and price dependent,
Car looks super nice, you could try listing at 12-13k and knock it down a few hundred every couple weeks until you find buyer interest or decide to keep it.

Mine sits parked under the car cover now.

 

Looks nice the salvage title hurts the price unfortunately in my opinion. Prices are always subjective and ultimately it goes down to what someone is willing to pay. But in my opinion with out seeing how the interior looks 18-15k if the interior is clean like you said.

 

Thanks! Probably going to list high locally at $19k and see what happens. Lesser cars around me in Kansas City seem to be going for crazy prices. Appreciate all the help!

 

Very nice car. Definitely need more pics, I would guess around 17K to 20K. Put it on BaT, fox bodies definitely get a premium there, even the modified ones seem to do well.

 

IMO and I’m going “against the grain”… but. Salvage title by definition sounds bad… AND what deemed a vehicle “salvage” in the first place really determines future vehicle value.

For example, a stolen vehicle that say was found stripped of XYZ parts vs. a totaled vehicle that was rolled and every body panel on it destroyed with a crushed roof - both can have a salvage title, but the theft recovery is easier “rebuilt” with no frame or structural damages.

Also “salvage” by definition to the auto/insurance industry means:
The cost to repair the vehicle exceeded the actual cash value parameters. In most States if the vehicle cost to repair is within 72-75% of ACV, it’s automatically “totaled” by the Insurance industry and the title is marked “salvage”. It does not matter if that vehicle was say in a flood and by appearance is “perfect” or if that vehicle was destroyed in a massive wreck, or melted by fire … salvage is salvage to the Insurance industry because they paid out on it, they claimed the vehicle and have title to it. They will then auction it off to highest bid by scrapper or via other auctions to recoup their $$$$.

However, every State has their own lingo of a salvage or rebuilt title. If the title was “salvage” but the car has passed all State Inspection reviews to be deemed road worthy, then the car is just as good as one without a salvage title branding.

Also in some States, a salvage title in one State can be titled as a “Rebuilt” in the next. Again definitions vary by State, but for all intentional discussions, the car has been verified to be road worthy again by that specific State.

For instance, a “salvage” title in NJ is the same as a “rebuilt” title in Illinois…. NJ does not have a title code for “rebuilt”, they have only title code for “salvage”. Once a car has already been fixed and registered as “rebuilt” in another State and re-registered in NJ, the “rebuilt” title is already a good title so no inspections are necessary to prove road worthiness in NJ, but NJ will issue a “salvage” title to a vehicle that is perfectly fine for the road BECAUSE the VIN already had that prior history tied to it.

It’s confusing by the lingo used and there isn’t any national “standard” State to State, but to me, “salvage” doesn’t mean anything IF the car was not structurally damaged and/or slapped back together where it presents a danger to an owner or the public. In many instances a salvage branding doesn’t deter many people, more so for vehicles that are sought after.

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For the vehicle listed, I’d say it’s very clean, it’s has tasteful mods, it also has ownership history to back up its integrity and IMO a theft recovery isn’t anything to worry about. Tons of cars were stolen 30+ years ago because there wasn’t any factory theft deterrents coming with the car like today’s technology and what was available then was easily “breakable” to allow thieves to steal a vehicle.

IMO, OP should list it at around $20k and let the negotiations play out. If he starts low, he can’t ask for “more”. I feel that is a very fair ask for such a clean Fox with those mods and knowing it’s only “ding” is some idiot stole it at one point and it was recovered/rebuilt.

 

IMO and I’m going “against the grain”… but. Salvage title by definition sounds bad… AND what deemed a vehicle “salvage” in the first place really determines future vehicle value.

For example, a stolen vehicle that say was found stripped of XYZ parts vs. a totaled vehicle that was rolled and every body panel on it destroyed with a crushed roof - both can have a salvage title, but the theft recovery is easier “rebuilt” with no frame or structural damages.

Also “salvage” by definition to the auto/insurance industry means:
The cost to repair the vehicle exceeded the actual cash value parameters. In most States if the vehicle cost to repair is within 72-75% of ACV, it’s automatically “totaled” by the Insurance industry and the title is marked “salvage”. It does not matter if that vehicle was say in a flood and by appearance is “perfect” or if that vehicle was destroyed in a massive wreck, or melted by fire … salvage is salvage to the Insurance industry because they paid out on it, they claimed the vehicle and have title to it. They will then auction it off to highest bid by scrapper or via other auctions to recoup their $$$$.

However, every State has their own lingo of a salvage or rebuilt title. If the title was “salvage” but the car has passed all State Inspection reviews to be deemed road worthy, then the car is just as good as one without a salvage title branding.

Also in some States, a salvage title in one State can be titled as a “Rebuilt” in the next. Again definitions vary by State, but for all intentional discussions, the car has been verified to be road worthy again by that specific State.

For instance, a “salvage” title in NJ is the same as a “rebuilt” title in Illinois…. NJ does not have a title code for “rebuilt”, they have only title code for “salvage”. Once a car has already been fixed and registered as “rebuilt” in another State and re-registered in NJ, the “rebuilt” title is already a good title so no inspections are necessary to prove road worthiness in NJ, but NJ will issue a “salvage” title to a vehicle that is perfectly fine for the road BECAUSE the VIN already had that prior history tied to it.

It’s confusing by the lingo used and there isn’t any national “standard” State to State, but to me, “salvage” doesn’t mean anything IF the car was not structurally damaged and/or slapped back together where it presents a danger to an owner or the public. In many instances a salvage branding doesn’t deter many people, more so for vehicles that are sought after.

—
For the vehicle listed, I’d say it’s very clean, it’s has tasteful mods, it also has ownership history to back up its integrity and IMO a theft recovery isn’t anything to worry about. Tons of cars were stolen 30+ years ago because there wasn’t any factory theft deterrents coming with the car like today’s technology and what was available then was easily “breakable” to allow thieves to steal a vehicle.

IMO, OP should list it at around $20k and let the negotiations play out. If he starts low, he can’t ask for “more”. I feel that is a very fair ask for such a clean Fox with those mods and knowing it’s only “ding” is some idiot stole it at one point and it was recovered/rebuilt.

Thank you for the thorough explanation. As someone who has bought quite a few theft salvaged cars, I really couldn't agree more. Appreciate all the help.

 

I missed the salvage title part, good luck, let us know how it works out

 

If this were a newer car or it was a low mile mint original example, I could see the salvage title really hurting the value. On a 30+ year old car where eveyrthing has been gone through, modified, replaced, etc...I can't see it affecting price that much. So many of these cars have been neglected (sitting out in the field, rusted out, hack modifications, etc), finding cleans ones that have been cared for is getting harder as the years go on.

If I were the seller, I would list it at a reasonable price (not too low or high) and being willing to negotiate. The price should reflect your local market (southern cars tend to be cheaper while northeast is higher). Having lots of pictures, videos, documentation and be engaged in the process. Good luck with the sale.

 

If this were a newer car or it was a low mile mint original example, I could see the salvage title really hurting the value. On a 30+ year old car where eveyrthing has been gone through, modified, replaced, etc...I can't see it affecting price that much. So many of these cars have been neglected (sitting out in the field, rusted out, hack modifications, etc), finding cleans ones that have been cared for is getting harder as the years go on.

If I were the seller, I would list it at a reasonable price (not too low or high) and being willing to negotiate. The price should reflect your local market (southern cars tend to be cheaper while northeast is higher). Having lots of pictures, videos, documentation and be engaged in the process. Good luck with the sale.

Thank you! That was my train of thought as well. Just curious what the Mustang guys thought

 

Appreciate all the help. I'm going to list at $19k locally in Kansas City and see what happens. Don't need to sell but seemed like lesser cars in my area were going for about the same, so was just hoping to gain some expert opinions. Will get it all cleaned up and photos posted in the coming week or so. Feel free to message me if interested. I have photo and receipt documentation of all rebuilds and upgrades.

Here's a quick video I had on my phone:

 

Salvage title sucks to deal with in NY. I don’t see the heater core hoses. Are they there or bypassed?

i love that intake. You can have thanksgiving dinner on it. Is it a track heat or street intake? What cam exactly?

lots of go fast parts on it but with a salvage title and it’s highly modified, if some offered $9000 I’d run with it. You asked and that’s my honest assessment.

 

Salvage title sucks to deal with in my. I don’t see the heater core hoses. Are they there or bypassed?

i love that intake. You can have thanksgiving dinner on it. Is it a track heat or street intake? What cam exactly?

lots of go fast parts on it but with a salvage title and it’s highly modified, if some offered $9000 I’d run with it. You asked and that’s my honest assessment.

Funny you say that I did offer 9k but I think it’s worth around that maybe a little more but I would have to pay shipping or fly up and drive it home.

 

Let us know how this sale goes. See if BaT accepts the car, you have nothing to lose. I wouldn't let it go for 9K.

 

7/10 paint and a salvage title is a $9000 mustang. And paint is the most expensive repair part of the car.

I’m having my mustang painted right now. It was a 6/10. To do it right, where I live it $10,000+. You get what you pay for with paint and what you’re willing to live with.

I really like the color and the fact that it was cared for all these years. Telling a potential buyer the history of it will soften the blow if asking for more than $9000.

 

after asking the corral he shoots for the moon at 19k.

The car is a legit $10,000 at maximum unless you find an uneducated or emotional buyer. Very likely a $7000 - 8,000 car though

 

Aint no way im paying 10k for a salvage title fox.

 

agreed.

"at maximum" - i literally mean "maximum" 10k + is with an emotional ("my old car from high school" or "my dads car") or an uneducated impulse buyer.

the reality is that car will likely sell for $6,000 7-8 if he waits long enough for luck.

 

Honestly you’ll get more than 9k if you part it out, that’s what I think I’m gonna do for mine

GLWS.

 

Agreed. That was mainly why I asked. Trying to determine if it’s worth more to sell the blower setup and put the stock 302 back in.

 

agreed.

"at maximum" - i literally mean "maximum" 10k + is with an emotional ("my old car from high school" or "my dads car") or an uneducated impulse buyer.

the reality is that car will likely sell for $6,000 7-8 if he waits long enough for luck.

That’s exactly the type of buyer I’ll sell to. I’ve got nothing but time.

7/10 paint and a salvage title is a $9000 mustang. And paint is the most expensive repair part of the car.

I’m having my mustang painted right now. It was a 6/10. To do it right, where I live it $10,000+. You get what you pay for with paint and what you’re willing to live with.

I really like the color and the fact that it was cared for all these years. Telling a potential buyer the history of it will soften the blow if asking for more than $9000.

Thanks! I agree. Took in a ‘69 Chevelle this past year that was a frame off and paint was $20k already prepped. That’s why I haven’t painted this one. Can’t justify the ROI with a salvage title which is originally why I asked the forum so I could determine next steps if selling.

 

That’s exactly the type of buyer I’ll sell to. I’ve got nothing but time.


Thanks! I agree. Took in a ‘69 Chevelle this past year that was a frame off and paint was $20k already prepped. That’s why I haven’t painted this one. Can’t justify the ROI with a salvage title which is originally why I asked the forum so I could determine next steps if selling.

Over 12k in just paint materials for this Lighting that was painted MystiChrome in 2004. Still looks pretty good after 20yrs though...lol

 

I think you’d get 10 to 15k for it on BAT. Stock, low miles, does best but you can’t change the mileage.