I think your confusing the 302 Windsor and the 351 Windsor. The 351 block changed very little over the many years of it's production. The deck height did change a bit at some point so you have to measure that before you order parts. The only major change to the block that I know of is in the mid 90's when Ford made the block roller lifter friendly. If I was to use any block I would look for one of those "roller" blocks that can utilize the stock Ford roller lifters.

 

The "C9" blocks (69) have extra material in the main area, some say there is also 70 blocks this way but as far as I know and have seen they are not.

 

69-70 9.480 deck height, more material under the caps. 71+ 9.503 deck height. Material in the block starts to get taken away as the years go on. As for capability, it will be greatly diminished with 250 worth of nitrous. No such thing as a marine block, dont get scammed into that.

The nitrous will hammer the main caps and they will walk like other power adders. just a bit more severe

 

Will a main cap girdle keep them in place at all with nitrous? I probably would rarely if ever use that much, but I'd like to know if the motor would stay together with that much.

Thank you

 

Main caps will still walk with a girdle and depending on which one will then throw you a new set of curve balls when installing depending on pan and pickup

 

C9 blocks are supposedly thicker in the webbing. I haven't seen enough difference to justify trying to find one. I have a C9 and a E4 block both on stands. The C9 is a little thicker, but not by a lot. Caps still walk. Even with studs; though they do help (a little). It needs splayed caps, but there is insufficient material for the outer bolts. Can be done but it gets really thin around the outer bolts.

Girdles are awesome for holding the parts in when it breaks. That's about all they're good for. By the time you've realized that the girdle held the rods inside the block, usually the block is junk anyway. Not worth the installation hassle, IMO.

Been down the road, C9's, a bunch of D4's and some later blocks. They'll all bust. In my opinion nary a one of the factory offerings even comes close to doing what a Dart can do. It's not JUST the mains....its the whole package. Took me about 10 years to finally quit wasting tens of thousands of $$$ on stock blocks with good parts. And I'm only about 700 HP, and naturally aspirated. Used to, with the stock block stuff I'd get about 2 seasons out of one. 22 races a year, and about 250 passes. IF I got the full 2 seasons, it was showing it. Caps bouncing around, cracked cranks, cracked webs, etc. Most of the time it was just destroying everything and starting over. Had an "extra" 408 built up...."just in case". And used it up too. Got mad at myself (and down)....drove down to Keith Craft and bought a sportsman block. It's been in the car for 4 years now. Had a head gasket failure 2 years ago, had Keith fix the channeled head, got some new gaskets, and all has been well. So far. Also for whatever reason this dart block engine is more consistent.

 

NEW ET! (AOD)

well its been a long wait from last season. Last season I just got a bone stock 92 AOD gt minus the CAI and the TB. it then ran its best et of 9.74 @ 77 mph with a 2.2 60'. Over the winter i got a h pipe, flowmasters and 4.10 trak lok rebuild oh and a set of 26x10.50 et streets today it ran a 9.45 @ 74mph with a 2.1 60ft the tires had about 12 psi in them. I want to get it to run at least a 9.1 like she is now what can I do to get it there or is it possible?

 

Thanks for the info guys. I guess I'll be looking for a deal on an aftermarket block.

Are the Boss blocks any good, or should I definitely be looking for something from Dart.

My guess is that the better consistency has to do with ring seal, due to the cylinders moving more in the cheaper block.

 

I guess you haven't been looking in the Classifieds here, or on Westside Mustangs | Hardcore Mustang Enthusiasts or Htownracing - Home of Houston's Fastest Street & Strip Cars - Powered by vBulletin.

I have what you need, right here in Baytown. I have a Dart Sportsman block that either needs one sleeve and a bore to 4.165, or no sleeve and bore to 4.185 according to Houston Engine and Balance. I have 6 good Eagle 4340 h-beam rods with L-19 bolts. 8 Good Trend upgraded wrist pins. I'll take $1250 for all of it including the 4.155" bore Diamond pistons I was running (but the pistons had signs of lifting ringlands, so those are free).

I'll do $960 for the block by itself, or $350 for whats left of the rotating assembly. Or like said, $1250 for all of it.

You can text me if you want, Too Ate Won 804 Three Won Six Ate

Carl

 

so sorry..

 

good stuff here

 

I was recently reading about pinning the caps there was also discussion of some ebay splayed caps that could also be had in 2.75 and run a spacer on the block side to kill a different bird but these ideas are $foolish if you have to pay some to do it for you.

just some crap I read on the internet so it is what it is

 

You could do all that stuff to a 69 block and have an OK block, or you could buy my dart block, sleeve the one damaged cylinder, bore it to 4.165 and build whatever you want up to say 1200-1500 horsepower.

 

What woody didnt say, is the fixes were done when FORD was a four letter word and no-one supported it. We had to make what was provided in STOCK cars work. Lots of bandaides came about that elevated stock materials to somewhat survivable raceable materials.

Then some markerts finally started providing aftermarket products, and viola, for the cost of slapping on bandaids, you can now get a quality engineered product.