I can't vouch for the 60-70's thing, but 93-98 trucks and E series vans had these. You can score many times by getting parst from a van because most don't know or consider the parts are good interchangeable pieces and serve as viable candidates for a SCORE!

 

Roller windsors started in 1994. They Carry the casting F4TE. They were found in trucks and vans from late 1993 until the windsor was phased out and replaced with the modular motor.

The casting # is what you want to look for.

There was, to my knowlege no roller windsors in the 60s and 70s. But any windsor can be retrofitted with roller lifters, although they are expensive (~400$).

 

I am kinda new to engines. I have always been a mustang guy, but hey I am only 19...Quick question...Will i be able to find the casting without pulling the whole motor? And if so, where do i find that bad boy?

I am building a 347 in my 5.0 now, but i want to have a 351 to take it apart, clean really good, get some machine work done, and stroke it out. Maybe put it in a notch or a SN-95. Any help is appreciated, and sorry for the newb questions!

 

The casting number is on the passengers side of the engine, by the starter. This is a post from mustangforums:

351w Casting Numbers
The casting numbers are on the passenger side near the starter location. You will have to turn the block upside down to see them.

The year will be designated by the first 2 digits of the casting number.
The first digit is the decade and will be a letter. C=1960's, D=1970's, E=1980's, and so on. The second digit will be a number and specifies the year of the decade. Some examples follow:
D1=1971
E9=1989
F4=1994

 

thanks guys for all the help... I am sure i will ask more questions in a few days.

 

blk91gt has it just about right.


the blocks with casting numbers "f*te" are all capable of being altered to accept a standard hydraulic roller cam and parts / gear from a late model 302 hydraulic roller engine. .....[the actual change is just drilling and tapping the pre existing raised casting boss in the block]since all of these designation blocks all came with the casting bosses, but most were not drilled.
...all the stuff is the same.


only the "early" blocks produced before the 1980 era have to be "altered" to be able to accept a "late" type lifter and such..allthough, in those blocks it is much better to use the "crane 36532 type lifter" and a standard design late hydraulic roller cam...just like out of a stock "roller" motor.

 

Okay i guess i am not really understanding the term "Roller"...Can somebody explain to me what a roller motor is and how it is better?

And i guess it is better to find an already "roller" motor, than one that is needs to be changed into a "roller" right?

 

It refers to the type of cam followers. Roller motors use roller lifters. The blocks are cast differently around the lifter bosses, to allow for a lifter alignment device ( spider ) that keeps the roller lifter tracking true on the cam. It's desirable to find a roller block, so that you can use factory ford roller lifters from a 5.0. However, all the major aftermarket cam companies make 'retrofit' cam kits, that will allow you to install a roller cam in a non roller block. You can expect to spend around $600 for the retro setup, vs $250 for an aftermarket cam that uses ford lifters,

 

How strong are the 94+ 351W blocks?

 

the "roller" blocks are weaker than all other blocks cast...!!!!

it is common to break the block at a performance power level.

many have much better luck using a "early" block...i.e. cast before 1975 or so.

 

will the 94+ hold 600 horse power. That is all i want with it, for now!!!

 

It's the 302 blocks that break easily. The 351 blocks seem to hold up a little better. As pointed out already, the late 60's blocks were stronger.

 

yeah, i think that the 302 will break anywhere from 450-500, i was just curious if the newer ones will hold 600. I realize the older ones are stronger, but what is a newer block capable of and an older block capable of? I would rather have a new one. If it will hold 550, i will be happy.

 

the true factor is a ceretain horse power per cubic inch.


if a 302 is making 550 HP,

then the ratio is 1.82

if a 302 is making 600 then the ratio is 1.98

if a 351 is making 550, then the ratio is 1.56

if a 351 is making 625 then the ratio is 1.78.....

the DESIGN factor of BOTH of the blocks was centered around and envisioned for about 1.75 HP / cubic inch....


they ALL can fail at lesser levels if the tune up is wrong or poor fitting of parts causes strain, or if the block was ran hard earlier in its life.

I would allways have a 35 year old block than to have a newer and weaker thin block....

 

Watch the tune.

 

can someone explain how a tune can make a motor stronger (or stop it breaking)?
is this only for efi or is it the same for carby motors?

 

it does not matter if it is a carbreor or an injector.
the tuneup can cause extended periods of lean or overly rich conditions and that can cause detionation or hydraulicing.

both extreemes can blow out head gaskets or damage ring seal.

 

thanks for that info.
My 302 used to detonate fairly often....i was running about 11:1 compression, after a few years it lost a fair amount of power and developed a slight vibration.
time for a rebuild or new motor.
whats the best option for a nice strong 400-500 hp street hydrolic roller motor without breaking the bank running a carby.
is this possible
347
351w
351c

thanks in advance

 

people can break anything...even a WAR- TANK engine.