Not sure I would use a bolt on SFCs. I would look into a torque are.

 

Why not? Whats the downside to SFC's? And whats the purpose of a torque arm? Dont the SFC and PHB do what the torque arm does?

 

If you want to improve handling with minimal cash outlay: alignment with cc plates, tires, shocks/struts. Right there, you're close to $1500...

SFC's I think most would consider "mandatory", but to do them right (weld in, tweak to conform to front/rear subs, seam weld etc) ain't cheap, unless you have some fabrication skills and don't have to pay hourly rates for someone qualified to do the job.

btw, if you do some searching and reading, you'll more likely find a plan that is YOURS, not someone else's opinion.

 

If you want to improve handling with minimal cash outlay: alignment with cc plates, tires, shocks/struts. Right there, you're close to $1500...

SFC's I think most would consider "mandatory", but to do them right (weld in, tweak to conform to front/rear subs, seam weld etc) ain't cheap, unless you have some fabrication skills and don't have to pay hourly rates for someone qualified to do the job.

Well the $1500 price tag was in reference to "per bolt on" for example coilovers cost about $1500......I wouldn't like to spend more than $1500 for one thing. And yeah unfortunately most of these parts will be installed by a shop, especiall the SFC...

 

Nevermind..tank your list and start with tires/alignment, good SFCs, and driving courses..then work from there.

 

Can I expect drastic handling improvements with this package:

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/iwwida.pvx?;item?item_no=MM-MMTASS3 1&comp=LRS

and a set of HR SS springs and full length subframe connectors?

 

I dunno about drastic, but rear grip will improve a great deal. With that kit, you'll need different springs for the rear, though. Don't just slap in a set of springs that you THINK will work. Call Maximum Motorsports and ask them what springs/dampers will work well with that kit.

Subframe connectors are a must. Bolt-in models are worthless. They need to be welded in to be effective.

With that kit, you'll have more grip in the back, which means your front end will loose grip first. It'll understeer even more, but at least you'll be able to put the power down better coming out of the corner.

You're at the start of a VERY long journey...

 

Let me tell you the purpose of why I even bought this car. First off, I dont even like american cars, lol.... the purpose of the purchase was to improve my credit (again, for my ambition to buy a house). I got up to a 15k loan with 20% investment coming from my part. I couldnt find a car that could satisfy me in most areas of what I would do with the car so I landed on a cobra vert because

1. They make great power for the money compared to most new cars
2. I was already somewhat familiar with them because my ex g/f had a 97 GT
3. SN95 verts look awesome
4. Lots of aftermarket support
5. Inexpensive
6. They hold their resell value very well, when maintained properly

My real love is for imports, hence my alias, and the truth, my little 4 cylinder turbo 1991 240sx out performs my cobra in everyway possible. 240sx's have amazing handling and I think 50/50 weight distrubution (or damn close to it) their famous sr20 motors make insane amounts of power on a stock block, and theres TONS of aftermarket support for them. Plus when it comes to handling IRS > Live Axel. Not to mention how insanely cheap 240sx chassis run for......So yeah, I do feel like I'm in a delimna, but I hate having to put my passion on a hault, my life seems to be becoming REALLY freakin boring due to this issue....

 

My real love is for imports, hence my alias, and the truth, my little 4 cylinder turbo 1991 240sx out performs my cobra in everyway possible. 240sx's have amazing handling and I think 50/50 weight distrubution (or damn close to it) their famous sr20 motors make insane amounts of power on a stock block, and theres TONS of aftermarket support for them. Plus when it comes to handling IRS > Live Axel. Not to mention how insanely cheap 240sx chassis run for......So yeah, I do feel like I'm in a delimna, but I hate having to put my passion on a hault, my life seems to be becoming REALLY freakin boring due to this issue....

Didn't think the 240 came with an SR20DE or DET for that matter (in the states).

 

^That makes less sense than your suspension questions...but, whatever floats your boat, another Corral thread comes to life...

 

Well maybe to you due to your lack of reading comprehension or communcation skills? But my initial purposes of the thread was to find out any other inexpensive suspension component that improves my car's handling aside from the one's I mentioned, and you know what? I actually did find out about another one because of this thread, torque arm! I didnt know about that one...... Im experienced with IRS components, not live axel

 

You're not exactly heading down the right path if you want advice. You are insulting some of the people that will give you the best advice and point you in the right direction.

 

I also wanted to point out parts like TA and PHBs are not exactly "bolt-on" parts. Yes they use bolts to anchor, but not knowing the proper install techniques and not following directions will end up with a ill handling car.

 

I think that you should call MM. They can give you all the details you want/need and hook you up with a great handling suspension. Depending on what you actually intend to do with the car will determine where you should go and how aggressive to go. First you must decide if you want a street terror for carving up your local back roads, an autox machine, open track wonder, drift machine, or a mix of all.

Plates and SFC's would be a great start. If you can find someone in your area to properly install the subframe connectors then go for it. If not, you might want to pass on that for now. The CC plates will be a good way to adjust your camber and caster which will aid in handling. A PHB woudl be a nice addition as well because it will give you good lateral control, once you move into any heavily competitive or aggressive driving you will want to come up with some kind of solution to replace the upper control arms as they are a big problem in the stock setup. Enter the TA setup, 3 link, or even Steeda 5-Link.

Coil overs would probably do wonders for you front suspension and handling. If you are going to install those up front, a GOOD set of CC plates is mandatory. While you are in there, a strut bar may add additional rigidity that could be beneficial in a coil over application.

Thant should be plenty to get started.

Your 91 240 may walk "all over" your Cobra, but it sounds like it has had a healthy dose of mods as well seeing as it did not come with a turbo motor. Give the Mustang platform a chance, it will take some manipulating, but I think it can be pretty good and most people here tend to agree.

So there is my $.02 which is just a basic summary of what is already available through search. If you think it is bad here then you should try corner-carvers.com.

 

Nah man never once did I say it was bad here. Please don't misinterpret that, it's actually really awesome here. By the way just for reference, here's a pic of my old baby that I miss very much!!

 

FWIW, the Nissan 240 was one of the worst handling cars i've ever driven.

 

+1

 

to the OP how much do you want to spend all together.

 

A properly set up mustang will walk over your 240. It's going to cost more than $1500 though. Driving on the track gets really expensive. Entry fees, hotels, and gas are close to $600 per weekend. On top of that you have tires, pads, fluid changes, and misc. repairs that are part of life of a track car.

Go and read maximum motorsports website. Specifically the areas that explain what their parts do and why the stock suspension setup is so poor. There is a lot of excellent info there. On your list I would forget the kmember for now and get a torque arm to complement the PHB you already have planned.

 

I will have to disagree. There is a guy with a 1991 JDM 180SX Turbo in town that is extremely quick. I am no slouch and the only reason he wasn't kicking my ass last season was because I was on 710s and he was on street tires.

It's a reasonably light car with good power and fairly well setup suspension (I think his car had aftermarket Tein coilovers) so I won't knock it.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_180SX

SR20DET with 200hp and a ~2700lb curb weigh. The only down side is the McStrut front suspension but I'd wager it's less of a clusterflock than the modified McStrut on the Fox.

 

They belong on drift courses...corner grip is not their greatest attribute.

 

That may be so but this guy was irritatingly quick and very smooth with his 180SX.

 

A good driver can drive anything fast.

 

Pretty much true. Well I guess the reason I praise my old 240sx over my current cobra is because both cars in the current market, the 240sx, dollar for dollar, can be built for a lot less money than my cobra to outperform the cobra.

A properly set up mustang will walk over your 240. It's going to cost more than $1500 though............

No I totally understand, I've spent over $10k on my 240sx to make it the way it was, and it was still far from done.

In all conclusion, I understand that I can slowly piece the suspension work on my cobra throughout a 6 month period, but in all reality, I'll still be spending those thousands of dollars on it (regardless if I feel the hit financially or not) and I guess that's my dilemma. I'm sure you guys as car enthusiasts can relate with what I'm feeling when I WANT to spend money on my car because its what I love doing, but know I probably shouldn't because of other priorities....