I'll be doing a full interior detail for upcoming Ponies In The Smokies show in March. Probably won't hurt to do a touchup cleaning under the hood.

Really need to address the weepy rear main and the drippy pinion cover.

 

I did a full remove, repair/replace interior work last winter. Only thing I didn’t do was the seat upholstery. It’s on its way now so I hope to have it installed before the upcoming cruise season.

 

Last month I replaced the body molding forward of my front wheel. They come from LMR solid black. I had to hand paint the pin strips.

 

New gears last weekend, DD-EFi digital dash and a new G-Force 2 weeks ago.

 

How are you liking the gauges? Looks great!

 

I walked past it so I could put gas in the generator. Even if it was running we got NAILED with an ice/snow storm and we are going on day 2 now with no power and the roads are not good. It is 55 degrees downstairs, I have not even considered how cold it is in the garage. With a line of storms that went through kansas to ohio I am sure the electrical guys they would send it to fix this stuff from other areas are stretched out across 3-4 states now so it might take a few days before we get power back.

 

Where are you? It’s 21 degrees in central Alabama and I’m about to freeze!

 

Mine will be more of a deep cleaning, especially on the seats. They've not really had a deep cleaning in the 27 years I've owned the car.

 

Mini tubs, 9" and torque boxes are currently underway.

 

 

Put the car cover on the nice one stuck outside, just made sure the windows where's closed and coolant was good on the ****box one since its getting cold here now and it actually snowed 😂

 

Finally got around to removing a broken bolt from 20+ years ago.
Driving down the highway one night, came up over a crest in the road and there’s a dead deer laying there belly big as hell. Had to’ve been doing 65 or 70, nothing I could do so I just held on and rode it out. It was such a jolt the plastic trim around the shifter popped up and the detachable face on my cd player ☺unlatched. Pulled over, no real harm I could see.
Next day I’m driving and after a few minutes I can smell this god awful aroma. Finally jacked up the car and my long tube collectors acted like potato peelers.. There were huge chunks of carcass cooking on the exhaust. Now to the point, it bent the bottom flange on the hog head cover and popped off the head of the bottom bolt.
Gotta freshen up the rear end and knew I wanted to get that bolt out before tackling the clutch packs and what not.
Have a good night boys

 

Nice goose 🪿

 

Had a buddy catch a big possum with his lowered full-size. It caught the center crossmember and left a 1/4 mile red trail. We had to put it up on jack stands and pressure wash the bottom to get the smell out. Good times.

 

I hit an armadillo in a 2013 explorer two days after we bought it. The car in front of me hit it first. Then the thing rolled like a football on its side. Every time I tried to adjust to miss it it changed direction. Hit it head on. Nasty mess under the car.

 

When I acquired my 93 TX unit, 2 owners prior to me did an engine swap w/performance upgrades including a GT40 upper intake…. That 1st owner who did the upgrades did have the original GT40 intake plate on the intake, but before he sold the car to the next owner - he removed it (and probably most likely sold it off…).

I didn’t like the look of the bare GT40 upper w/o the cover, but wanted to replace it. Even though original GT40 cover plates do surface and are on eBay - there’s no way on this earth I would pay in excess of the $500-$600+ “ask” for one, never…. Hell, I wouldn’t even pay $400….LOL

So I had found a guy on eBay who sells many styles of a replacement GT40 cover plate (and many other Mustang 5.0 cover plates) - including one style that replicates the original GT40 “H.O. 5.0 Pony” format. This was on my Christmas list, which I showed my wife and she ended up getting it for me.

Now if this guy is on this site - all I have to say is KUDOS to you for making these replica cover plates! It was an exact fit, the finish is excellent being bare metal and the inlaid cuts - perfect. All I wanted was to get a nice cover plate back on, and this surely fits the need for FAR LESS than an original…. If anyone has seen them on eBay but was not sure of the fit/finish, the part is well worth the cost in fit/finish/quality. I would recommend the Seller to anyone seeking custom or replica 5.0 cover plates.

This is the eBay seller:
cjrpony

He has the GT40 replica/custom plates for the original GT40 and the Lightning GT40 (and many other cover plates; look at all of his listings).

Here’s a before/after image. The parts painted black in my engine bay were like that before I bought the car.

 

Looks great!

 

Installed the following missing pieces in engine bay:

https://lmr.com/item/LRS-8310PR/84-93-Ford-Mustang-Radiator-Side-Air-Deflectors

And

https://lmr.com/item/LRS-8310B-K/5-0resto-mustang-frame-rail-air-deflectors-79-93

 

After my 82 sat in a garage for 15 years I decided to get the car road ready again. The car came with the TRX package that included the original TRX wheels. My wheels had been off the car for more than 30 years. They were discolored, dirty and dull. I stripped the clear coat off of them with a citrus based stripper. Rubbed them down with fine steer wool with Whitedimond metal polish. And then used a polishing ball on a drill to finish them. I then ordered new tires from Coker Tires. Michelin tires from France. That’s the only plant that still makes the 190/75/390 true metric tires for the wheels. I know LMR makes the new wheels and tires in a standard size but the cost was way upside down for me and I got to keep my original wheels.

 

Very nice work - not many people will go through that amount of trouble and just opt for the new ones.

 

Because I bought the car new and it was the first car I had bought in my life it was important to me to try and keep as much of the original parts on the car. I know it’s not a real hot rod or fast car but it’s a survivor and I love driving it

 

Today I popped the hood and hooked up the battery tender for a bit. Oil change incoming and then installing my MS3

SN95 keeping it company this winter

 

Nice shop bro!

 

4.10's courtesy of kjb302ho.

 

I’ve got one too. But mine is a 1966 8”

 

That's a good chunk of steel. Isn't it amazing how much weight our engines have to rotate?

 

I bought a MGW Shifter to try on the G-Force. I wish everything was as easy to install as a shifter.

 

Yeah, right!? I wish that too as I'm getting ready to pull the engine...haha

 

Marty makes nice stuff. Have his boxes and 9 inch in my junk.

 

Changes all valve stem seals on my 82 Fox 2.3L yesterday. Found a great tool to compress the valve springs. I made an adapter for putting pressure on the cylinder to keep the valves up while I changed the seals. With some help from my son we got all 4 cylinders valve seals changed with out issue.

 

Finished installing my custom 3" exhaust. It's Baasani 1 3/4" to 1 7/8" stepped long tube headers, 3" Bassani X-pipe, 3" LMR flow tubes, 3" 2 chamber Flowmonster mufflers and 3" Pypes tail pipes.

 

I’m about to start the re-upholstery of my seats. Bought the kit from Stock Interiors and it arrived today. Here are my before pictures.

 

That looks great!

The upholstery in my 93 needs to be recovered as well. The problem I’m having is that the 1993 LX base upholstery was comprised of (3) materials:

• Vinyl for sides and back of front seats and sides and front of back bench seat
• Primary Cloth - a shade lighter solid color background with a checkerboard pattern where the lines that make the checks are black
• Secondary Cloth is Velour; darker solid color used in conjunction with the checkerboard cloth

The problem I have is that the LMR sets (Acme?) have the incorrect “check” pattern (doesn’t even resemble the factory look at all - confirmed this with a POC @ LMR who knows the product). Even when going online to other upholstery suppliers - many do not have the correct “LX check” cloth for 1993. I even reached out direct to TMI via their website, never received a response... LOL.

Now I did reach out to SMS for upholstery samples. They DO have the correct upholstery I need (received all 3 samples that are exact match), but it’s not cheap for the (3) types of fabrics and the needed yardage to completely do both the front and rear seats. I then called around to local upholstery shops to get some baseline quotes for them to take that upholstery and sew it up. I’m getting quotes in the $1500-$3k range and that’s EXCLUDING the cost of the upholstery that I would be supplying - and excluding any possible repairs needed to the seat foam etc…. I am sure their rates are a little high because I’m supplying the material and they are not, but that’s still a lot of $$$ (to me) for just recovering seats. I get it, it’s labor intensive and tedious to start from scratch and it’s not like just throwing new pre assembled kit covers on, but for folks in my position - sometimes it’s difficult to find upholstery kits.

I still look for a good set of used seats but since my 1993 has a specific 1-year-only color interior/upholstery… R U B Y red, it’s very difficult to locate a used set. It’s not the same color red used in the 87-92’s at all…. So if anyone has a lead … LOL hit me up.

 

Reupholstering my seats has always been something I found oddly satisfying on these cars.

 

Well the kit is very nice and I think it will be pretty simple to follow. This is giving us practice for our 66 once we get it done. But we are way away from needing interior and upholstery on that one right now 😆

 

Finally getting after this. Only had this kit sitting around for a year or so.

 

Finally getting after this. Only had this kit sitting around for a year or so.

View attachment 1115408

I'm curious to here you're feedback on this when you get it up and running.
I've had my eye on the MS3 for a while, but not sure it's worth going down that route now that I have my Tweecer tuned car running pretty dang good.

 

I'm using the Pimp and wondered about the differences also. I'll have to look them up.
I'm very happy with the purchase after all is said and done. The Pimp is based on the A9L pin out of I remember correctly. This made it a little challenging in the tuning department for a SN95 as a Fox doesn't have a CCRM or an A/C high pressure switch. I had to figure out some workarounds that even had Stinger scratching their heads. I'm not great at tuning so I ended up paying for a remote tune which worked out excellent. It seems that these Megasquirt systems are limitless in their capabilities. I now installed the DD-EFI digital dash and can tune, log, view logs, and on and on via a wireless keyboard and the dash screen. You could do the same with your setup. I watched your video and I'm looking forward to the next chapter. Good Luck!

 

I now installed the DD-EFI digital dash and can tune, log, view logs, and on and on via a wireless keyboard and the dash screen. You could do the same with your setup. I watched your video and I'm looking forward to the next chapter. Good Luck!

I've had my eye on those. I love what they can do but not sure i'm going to go that route yet. I actually do like keeping the car looking somewhat original with the analog gauges, and was debating putting a hidden tablet somewhere to display into. But we will see. Right now I just want to get it up and running with the base tune and go from there. Hoping to dig into it over the next few weeks.