Your pump is acting like my old pump used to when it got hot. How long have you had the lines near the header - is that new? The fuel filters are facing the right way correct? They are the same filter size that Aeromotive recommends on their sight and in the same configuration so I don't think that would be an issue. You stated you tried a new pump? - check the fuse in your power line and make sure it's not on its way out.

 

Lines have been routed that way for almost 2 years. However, the problem came up when I moved to this hotter climate. Fuel filters are the correct micron, configuration, and direction. They are not the AEROMOTIVE brand though.

Yes, NEW pump, no help.
If it were the fuse, it would just turn off. I can hear the pump starving for fuel and attempting to purge air. She'll cycle all day long, but once this problem hits, she wont push out (or take in?) fuel.

 

Guess I'll try re-routing line and see what happens.....

 

You have the better of the two fuel pickups (vs the Cartech). So I know there's no screen on the pickup bottom in the tank... The only other thing I can think of is mounting height for the pump too high or fuel in the tank to low. ...but I'm pretty sure it has nothing to do with those.

Just throwing out ideas..

Is the pump getting 12 volts.
You may consider an Aeromotive or other make voltage regulator so it's not at full flow under normal driving conditions.

Otherwise .... good luck hunting.


Your problem is why I ended up going back to a 255 in-tank with a KB BAP. It's now been about 2 years with no issues. I sat in too much traffic around here to worry about fuel all the time.

 

If I thought the filter(s) might B the prob I would remove them to test it...I also doubt its an heat issue from exhaust..Prob worn pump getting hot from resistance????...

 

Yeah, when I got the new pump this weekend, I mounted it on drop brackets so that it is now level with the tank vs. higher. But even while it was higher for the last few years, it worked.

The pump is gettng 12 volts, but I don't know much about the voltage regulator. Does it simply save wear and tear on the pump?

Thanks guys for the ideas.
One last thing, the fact that the supply line is -8 size, and the return line is -6 size shouldn't matter, should it?

 

no that shouldnt matter... are you running the pump off the stock intank pump wiring? if so run a new dedicated feed to it. have you ever felt the fuel line that runs next to the header to see if it is soft/ collapsed while hot?

adam

 

The voltage regulator is designed to drop voltage to the pump under normal operating conditions (idle, low rpm). Then at a setting of your choice the pump will kick on full voltage (high rpm). It allows the fuel pump to run slower at the low rpms and then kick into high gear when there's a fuel demand. They usually have a way to bypass the voltage drop for track use (electronic switch). It's supposed to keep the pump cooler for those people using the larger pumps in a daily driver.

http://www.aeromotiveinc.com/pdetail.php?prod=31

 

you need to run a regulator, or run WIDE OPEN THROTTLE ALL THE TIME.

Big pumps = more heat.

 

i run a weldon 2025 on the street and have no issues with it heating up in the florida heat. have you possibly looked into the way the pump is mounted with the pick up? these kind of pumps dont like to be mounted to high in relation to the tank and like to have a sump-tank set up or cell. you may be working the pump too hard to pull the fuel from the tank and it wasnt noticable until you got into the hotter weather cause the cool weather kept it cool. just food for thought.