do these really work better for stick cars? what are your experiences? i ran some last year but am trying non stiff this year and am wondering what to expect.
stiff sidewall drag slicks
Silver LX
21 - 40 of 45 Posts
Joined
·
1,642 Posts
Here is another way to look at it. The next time you are on the chassis dyno. Make a pull with 15 lbs of tire pressure. Then make a pull with 30 psi of tire pressure
I'll say no more!!!
Joined
·
238 Posts
Now there's a scary picture!Here is another way to look at it. The next time you are on the chassis dyno. Make a pull with 15 lbs of tire pressure. Then make a pull with 30 psi of tire pressure
I'll throw a couple pics to show the difference on the starting line for me. First pic is from around June 2010, running normal 26x10 slicks with 12lbs air, launching around 5800. Second pic is from September 2011 running a 28x10.5 stiff sidewall with 12lbs air and 6200 rpm launch. Much less tire distortion with the stiff sidewall, and I had slightly better and way more consistent 60 foot times all season.
Attachments
Joined
·
608 Posts
Great info guys, thanks Bruce, I always read your posts 10x. Is it safe to say then a drag radial is too stiff and hard on a stick car, a reg slick isn't enough and the stiffwall is just enough. (as a general statement for stick cars) I know there's many factors and people can get all the tires to work.
Joined
·
1,642 Posts
I can agree with the current street drag radials are too stiff for a stick car. They can't handle the shock of a stick shift. You would have to hit it very soft on the line and hope you have enough clutch to pull the car down track. Look at a stiff sidewall slick as being able to handle the shock better then a regular slick. In the case of the 26x10 MTT slicks the stiff sidewall slicks are made of a different compound.
Joined
·
1,023 Posts
I currently dont have the stiff side wall slicks ( with a 5 spd) but will the 26X10 SS Slicks fit on my 15X8.0 weld rims? Id like to step up to a slightly wider tire b/c Im currently running the 15X8 slicks but I also want them to properly fit on the rim. The summit site reccomends a 9-11 rim for the 15X10 tire so should I go with a smaller SS slick or will those fit fine on my current rims?
Joined
·
1,023 Posts
awesome thanks
Joined
·
1,768 Posts
the reason why they recommend 9-11 in rim on the 10in slick is because you will not get the full contact patch of the slick on the ground. After a while you will be able to see that in the way the slick will wear out... If you can get some 10in rims that will stiffen the sidewall even more... Good luckawesome thanks
Joined
·
1,023 Posts
ok I'll keep that in mind thanks. Am I giving up a noticeable amount of time or traction with out getting a full contact patch if I do make the switch over?
Guess what I really am asking is will I see more of an improvement going to the 15X10 stiff sidewall tire on the 8" rim and giving up some contact patch VS staying with a 15X8 tire on the same rim but it not being a stiff sidewall
Guess what I really am asking is will I see more of an improvement going to the 15X10 stiff sidewall tire on the 8" rim and giving up some contact patch VS staying with a 15X8 tire on the same rim but it not being a stiff sidewall
Joined
·
1,642 Posts
Here are some things that I have learned over the years to help everyone. With reguards to better 60fts, tire life, etc.
1. Sunlight is cancer to slicks. Keep your tires out of the sun.
2. Rotate your tires from one side to the other as often as possible.
3. Do not let your tires go flat. It will destroy the sidewall.
4. Running tubes can help tire life along with better 60fts.
5. Rim screws will stiffen the sidewall. I run 16 per side.
6. Check out the tech bullitans at Mickey Thompson Tires. Read them all!!!!
Mickey Thompson Performance Tires & Wheels
1. Sunlight is cancer to slicks. Keep your tires out of the sun.
2. Rotate your tires from one side to the other as often as possible.
3. Do not let your tires go flat. It will destroy the sidewall.
4. Running tubes can help tire life along with better 60fts.
5. Rim screws will stiffen the sidewall. I run 16 per side.
6. Check out the tech bullitans at Mickey Thompson Tires. Read them all!!!!
Mickey Thompson Performance Tires & Wheels
Joined
·
933 Posts
Hey Bruce. How's it going buddy. As always your posting some great info. Just for the fellow stick guys. I have been running 26-10 stiff for three years now with tubes as per bruces recomendation. Instantly dropped a tenth and a half off my best 60 ft. I've never looked back. I've ran a best 60 of 1.22 with 8.56 at 156. The car is a lot more stable up top now. I'm sticking with the 26-10 as long as I can. I'm going to weigh 2650 or less this year so I'm hoping to 60 those little tires in the teens this summer. Then upping the shot ang go for sevens. It won't be easy but I know I can get it close ( right Bruce?). As Bruce has told me take baby steps. I also want to thank mr Hemminger for all his help over the years and never asking for anything in return.
Joined
·
1,642 Posts
Thanks Mark. I appreciate the kind words. Trust me my friend I learn from you as well. I really enjoy talking with you trying to improve your car. Some of the things that we have talked about help me to apply to my car too. I know that you will accomplish your goals of 60fts in the teens and running in the 7's. Talk to you soon.
Joined
·
5,311 Posts
Bruce has been a huge help with me also. Heck he even contacts me if I haven't updated him on how my car is doing. I think it is great he helps others.
As for the stiff sidewall vs the soft side wall it was explained to me this way. When you launch your car on a soft sidewall and it wrinkles up that wrinkle comes out durring the 1-2 shift. Your car is not propelling forward durring that time. It can even cause tire spin. As you let the clutch out in 2nd that tire has to stretch and put some stress back onto the sidewall.
So you have lost time wrinkling the side wall at the launch and on the 1-2 shift.
Stiff sidewalls are just stiff enough to absorb the shock of hitting the tire on a stiff sidewall. There isn't much of a wrinkle effect an the car just starts moving forward and no loss at the 1-2 shift unloading and reloading the tires.
Stick cars just can't shift as fast as an automatic. And auto shifts fast enough it doesn't fully unload the tires on the 1-2 shift. I know we all think we shift our sticks as fast a automatics but in reality we dont. The stiff sidewall really works in a stick car.
Bruce thank you for the information about not letting the slicks go flat. I store my slicks on wood laying on their side while the car is parked. I alway let them go flat naturally. I'm gonna go home after work and air them up an from now on keep them aired up. Since I also street drive the car I have drag radials on the car unless the car is at the strip. I'm hoping to get my lil 302 into the 1.4 60' range this year.
As for the stiff sidewall vs the soft side wall it was explained to me this way. When you launch your car on a soft sidewall and it wrinkles up that wrinkle comes out durring the 1-2 shift. Your car is not propelling forward durring that time. It can even cause tire spin. As you let the clutch out in 2nd that tire has to stretch and put some stress back onto the sidewall.
So you have lost time wrinkling the side wall at the launch and on the 1-2 shift.
Stiff sidewalls are just stiff enough to absorb the shock of hitting the tire on a stiff sidewall. There isn't much of a wrinkle effect an the car just starts moving forward and no loss at the 1-2 shift unloading and reloading the tires.
Stick cars just can't shift as fast as an automatic. And auto shifts fast enough it doesn't fully unload the tires on the 1-2 shift. I know we all think we shift our sticks as fast a automatics but in reality we dont. The stiff sidewall really works in a stick car.
Bruce thank you for the information about not letting the slicks go flat. I store my slicks on wood laying on their side while the car is parked. I alway let them go flat naturally. I'm gonna go home after work and air them up an from now on keep them aired up. Since I also street drive the car I have drag radials on the car unless the car is at the strip. I'm hoping to get my lil 302 into the 1.4 60' range this year.
Joined
·
1,642 Posts
My bad. I should have explained a little better. Don't let them go flat while supporting the car. That really destroys the sidewall!!!! And can bend your rims. I try to keep mine aired up when not racing. Escpecially when in the trailer.
Also get a good flexible tape measure to measure roll out. Very important. It can solve a problem of a car going one direction. Tires should be within 3/8 inch.
Joined
·
5,311 Posts
So sitting flat on wood is ok to go flat then? I don't store them on the car. Since my car is still streetable I like to cruise it sometimes and it usually has the drag radials on it.
hopefully not a stupid question, but is there an alternative to using the m/t brand tubes ?at 65.00 a pop, very pricey for an occasional weekend racer. and congrats to bruce and the rest of the guys for their accomplishments. your input is greatly appreciated on these forums. thanks, allen conner
21 - 40 of 45 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
