You can reclock the input shaft of the SN95 rack:

http://web.archive.org/web/20050524...50524060101/http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jfeit/hosted/rackclock/rackclock.html

Then a standard MM/Flaming River/Borgeson steering shaft with the lower U-joint replaced to be the SN95 version will fit correctly.

 

Awesome info. Still relevant after almost 10 years.

 

My...goodness. If my brother's Capri wasn't on a budget, I would say to hell with it and purchase the inexpensive shaft.

Jack, I spoke with Chris yesterday, pretty much just shooting the sh*t about our steering setup. I was telling him that we are replacing the pitiful 20:1 rack in our 82 Capri with a low mileage original Ford rack from a 91 LX 5 liter. Chris said that just about any fox rack is unacceptable, and that any sn95 rack would make an enormous improvement. Now, that isn't too much of a problem since we can easily sell this rack, and I have a couple lines on an sn95 rack, but for a car that has the following parts installed, is an sn95 rack truly necessary? I realize the "feel" will be leaps and bounds above any fox rack, maybe it's just that I've never driven a fox with an sn95 rack and I don't know what I'm missing. Reclocking the sn95 rack to align the steering wheel doesn't seem overly complicated, but does look to be a PITA.

The car is 100% street, daily driver, 82 Capri no options
iron head Explorer motor,
Bilstein HD's, 275 in/lb springs
04 Cobra a-arms, stock 82 kmember (I think it's the same as 87-93 4-banger).. we installed the a-arms with the intent of widening the track width and improving camber adjustment
MM c/c plate, strut tower brace, kmember brace
85-93 V8 swaybars
87-93 v8 spindles
H&R "Super Race" springs as recommded by MM tech
Ford racing uppers
Pro 3i weight jackers (I know, I know, we had them laying around)
10-holes with stock 225/60/15 tires

I think the widened track width really looks great, and the car handles really nicely for what it has. The steering is what we really need to lock down at this point..

 

If you currently have the low effort 20:1 rack, going to the high effort 15:1 rack and pump (I think you will have to change this also) is going to make the steering much better. Both because the steering will be faster ratio and won't be so over boosted. You will be able to actually feel what the front tires are doing. Going to an SN95 rack will give an increase in feel over the 15:1 rack. The torsion valve in the rack is stiffer, so the power assist doesn't start working until you've turned the wheel more than the 15:1 rack. This makes it much easier to make small steering corrections.

Personally, I would skip the 15:1 rack and go straight to the SN95 rack. But I'm very picky about the steering feel in a car. I grew up in Ojai and drove 150 and 33 all the time. Overboosted, imprecise steering on roads like these is not fun. Some people are not as picky about steering feel. If you've lived ok with the 20:1 rack in the car so far, you may be one of those.

 

I did the SN95 rack swap into my Fox using the MM hybrid shaft and it's one of the best mods I've done to the car. The shaft is pricey, but worth it for steering that actually communicates some road feel back to you. After doing the swap it actually felt like the car's handling improved greatly, as the steering feel is improved to the point that you can actually navigate a specific line through turns. The improved steering feel makes the car feel more surefooted all around and inspires much more confidence when driving twisty roads fast... basically it made my Mustang feel much more like a real performance car and not just a clumsy handling muscle car with some sticky tires on it...

BTW the MM shaft is great quality like all of their parts, although I do wish it came powdercoated rather than in bare steel.

 

I modified a SN95 shaft with part of my Fox shaft. This might not be the best idea, but I haven't had any troubles yet. I also reclocked the rack.

http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24736

 

I want to use the fox shaft and just replace the u joint/clock the sn95 rack.

Any leads on a compatible u joint? Or ideas.

 

In the early days of using the Cobra racks, I clocked the rack and made my own hybrid shaft because MM didn't have a shaft available yet. It worked okay, but was never ideal with the large rubber isolater. Last year I switched the MM shaft and I should be good now for the long run. My advise is to just order the MM shaft. If you're not in a hurry, wait until the Weekend Deal days later this year and you'll save a couple bucks.

 

I found the u joint for it. Im just wondering how close the oinion is on length and position. Id like to just weld this on fox shaft and save the 150. I know im cheap.

Borgeson part number 015564 fox shaft ie: 3/4 smooth/round to mustang V.

Borgeson Universal Company :: Universal Joints :: 3/4V X 3/4 Smooth Bore

 

I just teied putting on the mm shaft and the top joint does not articulate enough hits the inner rod.anyone have that issue

 

Unfortunately, you are going to have to send it back from where you purchased it. The intermediate shaft was pushed too far into the upper U-joint when it was welded. Sorry about that.

 

Thank you i have a message out to lmr. Damn i was hoping i would have car back on rode this week 😢

 

I ended up just buying the MM hybrid shaft and I'm so glad I did. zero headaches. It just plain worked.

 

…. It just plain worked.

no truer words have been so concisely stated here.

 

2 hrs worth of labor and I Made My own using the oem sn95 shaft with the Fox part that inserts in to the column they are 90 deg offset

 

Bad part is that you still have the Rag Joint in your steering shaft. I know there is a combination of factory parts that will work that do not have that rag joint. I had one such shaft supplied to me by John Backus.

 

Bad part is that you still have the Rag Joint in your steering shaft. I know there is a combination of factory parts that will work that do not have that rag joint. I had one such shaft supplied to me by John Backus.

Roads are so crappy down here , I don't mind a

Bad part is that you still have the Rag Joint in your steering shaft. I know there is a combination of factory parts that will work that do not have that rag joint. I had one such shaft supplied to me by John Backus.

For now it will do its job fine,heck $20 worth of parts im not complaining, 100% street car, I will build another like the MM one in a couple of days.