Yes...the most important tip...do it right by butt welding the new pieces in and drilling the spot welds out and setting things in right. I have seen so many hackers...just lap weld new pieces over the existing pieces....big NO-NO! Post some pics of the rotted areas, and I can explain things step by step if you want me to.

 

Exactly why is lap welding a big No-NO. When you drill out spot weld what are you doing?. Drilling out the weld that was lapped over the other panel from the factory. AS long as you use a weld through primer, on the top and underside of the lapped panels, developing rust should not be an issue. I agree, butt welding is perferred if you not replacing the entire piece. Butt welding is, however, a much tougher skill than plug welding. For an amateur, expect a lot of burn through and aggraviting fitment issues.

 

That would be great.

I'll get the camera out tomorrow and snap a few pics.

 

chances are, if those areas are rotted, many more hidden areas are too.

 

Such as?

I've got the car down to a roller now and those are the only areas of major concern I've come across... where else should I look?

The car has always been a southern car so the body is very nice... the cowl just seems to be an issue of living under a tree for the last 5 years and the floors were a direct result of the cowl.

 

YEP...very true!

 

You mean the rear floor pans in front of the hump for the rear seats? Or under the rear seats? If it is the floor pans before the seats...yeah you should be able to just cut out and replace....but if it is under the rear seat....then you better check the subframe and lower torque box areas really good with a pointed body hammer.

 

I'm with ya.

We checked that out when we got the car. Once we realized we had floorpan rust back there it was the first thing we looked at... Torque boxes look great. The rust stops rather abruptly at the seam sealer where the floorpan ends and the rear seat support begins... I'll send ya a pic tomorrow... I think we found this one just in time.

 

Okay....I figured thats what you meant....yeah thats not big deal then. As for the cowl...send some pics...and I am sure I can help.

 

Alright guys.

I've uploaded all of the "rot shots" here: http://good-times.webshots.com/album/557621784gJMrCa

Note: NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART.

 

If I were you, I'd part the car out, scrap the body, and find another notch. With the amount of rust on the car, I would think it pointless to put that much effort into the car when you can definitely find another in better condition. Just my 2 cents.

 

Yeah thats alot of work...the floor looks to be the least of your worries, but that cowl area is just a **** ton of work. I say take it to bare shell...use the good stuff and put it on a clean shell...or find a cleaner car.

Its not hard to fix the car you have, just alot of time. And if your time is worth anything....you could save yourself money in the long run, by starting with a little cleaner car.

 

Yeah,

I've thought about that... its just hard to find coupes of that vintage around here for some reason... plus I jsut have a soft spot for cars that will otherwise never see the light of day again.

The biggest things is that I really want to improve my skills and this looks like a good trail by fire. Whats the worst that could happen, I screw it up and then sell off the good parts for more than I have in the car?

I'm gonna strip down a little further and then I'll shoot you some better pics 351W and we'll go from there.

Thanx again for all the help.

 

man that's ruff lookin in the cowl and that rocker looks really terminal!! nobody likes to see a four-eye parted but that seems like a lot

 

i think that car is done...

 

Here's what I've learned from some seminars and books I've read. I've never tried it myself yet. Some have disagreed. Butt welding is preferred because it returns the sheet metal as close to origininal as possible. Lap welds are more likely to rust through. Also, lap welds add some structure that may be seen when temperatures fluctuate. In other words, inside the shop/garage the panels will seem perfect. When out in the sun, the lap weld expands differently than the surrounding metal and the patch becomes apparrent. That's what I've been told.

 

Well, I am now going to officially call the car toasted.

The rockers were actually fine... the problem was rot that was hiding in the firewall basically from the accelerator on down and over to far left... oh well... at least I have a good parts car

I am now looking for a good hull to throw my parts onto if you happen to know of any in north georgia http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=884932

Thanx for all the help guys.

 

My 86 notch had the same problem with the cowl. Luckily that was the only thing that was roted and this will be a track car so its no biggy. I'm just going to POR-15 it and call it a day.

 

Sorry guys let me elaborate my meaning.....I mean when a quarter has a hole in the bottom....and you just cut the rust out....slap a piece of metal behind it...and lap weld it into place.....BIG NO-NO!! Sorry for my wording. I mean replacing metal...just as it was put on the car from the factory is the ONLY right way!!

 

I understand some circumstances prevent this from happening this way, but good welding skills are needed before any repair can begin.

 

Are the cowls on the fox body mustang that common to rust that bad?

 

A few more:

 

thats ugly

 

man, where do you start, replace the whole thing? now i have more rust to worry about.

 

I have never seen a stang rotted at the cowl like that!! I guess the purpose of those rubber boots behine the hood hinges are there for a good reason!!!! Keep water outof the cowl!! I know it gets in through the cowl vent but damn!

 

What rubber boots behind the hinges? I do not see them on my 91, can you post a pic of what they look like on the hood hinge?