Bosch is the provider of the OEM Ford O2 sensors (90% of the time). You can get part #13942 for your application (these include the connectors) or with their generic part #15725, which would require using the connector of your current O2 sensors. Either one should work fine. Hope this helps.

 

Once again thanks for your help, Joel. If they need to be replaced, do they always trip a code ? I am not getting any 02 sensor codes, but my gas mileage is a pitiful 15 mpg around town and it stumbles a bit when cold.

 

I use the generic Bosch ones and pull out the ol' soldering iron to transplant the connectors. You'll save about $20-30!!

 

Cool - I'm seeing these on Ebay for a bit less than the auto parts store prices

 

I've used Niehoff o2 sensors and they work just fine.

 

Once again thanks for your help, Joel. If they need to be replaced, do they always trip a code ? I am not getting any 02 sensor codes, but my gas mileage is a pitiful 15 mpg around town and it stumbles a bit when cold.

A stumble on a cold engine may have more to do with clogged injectors or a bad coolant or air temperature sensor than the oxygen sensors. The comptuer doesn't enter closed loop until after the car has been running more than about 90 seconds and/or when the engine reaches a certain temperature.

 

I changed out the ECT sensor but maybe I should move on to the ACT sensor also- not sure. Injectors are fairly new 24 lb'ers. I know I have air in the cooling system that I should burp out.

 

I changed out the ECT sensor but maybe I should move on to the ACT sensor also- not sure. Injectors are fairly new 24 lb'ers. I know I have air in the cooling system that I should burp out.

The ACT is more prone to failures than the ECT b/c of the oil sludge in the intake...I would remove it and clean it first (it might hold), or replace it. Bad O2's can also cause a problem in setting A/F, they might read OK (no codes generated), with a fubar'ed A/F exhaust...BTSTDTRT...a good way to test them is to generate an obvious rich and lean condition and monitor their output voltage.

Regarding the Universal type Bosch O2's, thats the economical alternative I always use, and they work great. I even use their 4-wire Universal alternative for OBD-II systems (ricers included) that only costs $45-$50 vs. $265 for an OEM replacement with no problems/comebacks....which one would you choose??

I know Bart99GT will say otherwise, but I don't recommend soldering the wires......I use the weatherproof connector that is included with the O2 replacement to prevent any damage to the thimble caused by heat from the soldering iron. Just make sure it is included with the replacement sensor, it should be something like the following pic:

Hope this helps. GL

 

Thanks again Joel. I had the car dynoed recently and only made 230 rwhp and had an A/F of 11.6 at WOT with the mods in my sig. so I'm hoping this swap helps. I checked the AutoZone site though and found the universal (15725) to be more expensive ($65 ea.) than the complete sensor (13942) at $35 ea. - are they pricing the uiniversal as a pair ?

 

I know Bart99GT will say otherwise, but I don't recommend soldering the wires......I use the weatherproof connector that is included with the O2 replacement to prevent any damage to the thimble caused by heat from the soldering iron.

Doesn't bother me either way. Last O2 sensor I bought had both the weathertight connector and some heat shrink. If you get the joint hot fast enough then the heat won't travel very far into the wire. Soldering is just my preferred way of doing things, but either method will work.

 

Thanks again Joel. I had the car dynoed recently and only made 230 rwhp and had an A/F of 11.6 at WOT with the mods in my sig. so I'm hoping this swap helps. I checked the AutoZone site though and found the universal (15725) to be more expensive ($65 ea.) than the complete sensor (13942) at $35 ea. - are they pricing the uiniversal as a pair ?

Too rich......12.9 - 13.2 would have been better....You're right on the pricing, I checked Advance Auto and they also have the OEM style @$35 and the Univ. @$52....Umh?.. guess it's one of those "gotta get rid of inventory surplus one way or the other" things. The universals don't come in pairs, that's the price for one. GL, and keep us posted on any improvements after the replacements.

 

Swapped in new 02 sensors and an ACT sensor - it was completely gunked up. However, I get an intermittent CEL now but the car seems to run fine. The battery was disconnected before the sensor install, so I'm hoping the computer is simply adjusting.I had no CEL before the swap.

 

Swapped in new 02 sensors and an ACT sensor - it was completely gunked up. However, I get an intermittent CEL now but the car seems to run fine. The battery was disconnected before the sensor install, so I'm hoping the computer is simply adjusting.I had no CEL before the swap.

Do the KOEO self-test anyway, to check what the system is recording as a code. Replacing the sensors might have (not on purpose, of course) caused some connection or wiring problem...JIC. LUK

 

did the KOEO test as recommended Joel - got a continuous memory code 41 - O2 sensor too lean - but after driving more the CEL doesn't come back. No On Demand codes (11)

 

did the KOEO test as recommended Joel - got a continuous memory code 41 - O2 sensor too lean - but after driving more the CEL doesn't come back. No On Demand codes (11)

Code 41 is the RH bank (cyl 1-4)......suggest you do a KOER test, to confirm it as a "hard code", if it shows up, I suggest you "warranty" that side's O2 sensor, to be on the safe side....if the code repeats after the re-replacement and a codes clear of the ECM.... LUK/GL

 

Joel - I did the KOER test and got the code 41 again ("Too lean - sensor does not switch"). Also the CEL did come on for about 2 minutes and then went off. I'm getting a sense that the computer is trying to learn, since I've only dirven it about 50 miles or so since the swap. Also, Advanced Auto gave me a hard time - they would not honor a returned 02 sensor since I installed the sensor already but when I told them the sensor caused the code, they eventually caved - man,what a pain. How can I tell if it works unless I install it? So, should I try to replace it ?

 

Ok....the O2's are inputs used for the learning or adaptive strategy of the system, if that input has a problem, adaptive learning will not be optimum, or the traditional GI-GO concept (garbage in - garbage out). Yes, replace it and do the KOER self-test @op temp.

On the Autozone incident....can not believe their excuse. Does that mean the warranty period of 3 mo. on the O2s, or any other component, is only valid if you don't install it?.......I would take the time and let them know about that experience at their web site (experience writing here), you would be surprised of the positive results that produces. LUK

 

thanks Joel - You mentioned code 41 is the right bank. My book doesn't refer to which bank (sensor) is causing the issue - it just says "sensor too lean - does not switch." Are you sure code 41 is for cylinders 1 to 4 ? Paul

 

Yup....41=right bank(1-4) and 91=left bank(5-8)....anytime you run into a lack of information situation, code definitions and EEC-IV wise, check them out at fordfuelinjection.com great site for information and products EEC-IV related. LUK how the re-replacement goes. GL