I just put new hoses on my motor cause I noticed the lower hose sucks closed when I give it some rpms. still does it with new hoses. they don't come with the springs inside them anymore.

 

Is your overflow filling up with coolant when hot and then as the motor cools is stays in and is not drawn back in? If so you could have a coolant leak. I searched forever for a coolant leak and never found it. Turns out it was one of the rear heater hoses and it only leaked at RPM.

 

Either plugged/clogged up radiator or TOO small. Normally a stocker isn't too small though.. Do U still have the Air dam in front, if not that's part of the prob. It's normal for the temp to rise under heavy boost(220 isn't Hi), but as soon as U let off it should go back to normal almost immediately.. However, if the temp crawls up under normal driving, definitely radiator IMO...

 

Check hoses nothing leaks under high rpm at idle, hoses are new as well (didn't seen bottom hose getting pinched when reving. I have a new mishimoto aluminum radiator with dual electric fans. Tried to find an auto parts store that sells the test strips for hc's in coolant but no one has them around here. The car has the plastic air deflector installed. I almost thinking its something tune related at I can directly correlate the temp increase with reving it high but if I putt around and shift early keeping the rpms low the car seems manageable. The ####ty part about all this is I did the entire build at once so pin pointing the issue can be anything but easy. Dont know if its a overlook on my part like screwing up the head gaskets or intake gaskets, or some tuning issues because the car is somewhat extreme.

 

Really stumped here, drained the oil and it's normal color. Was expecting to see grey but nothing. I just find it hard to swallow that a newly built engine with maybe 150 miles on it (all short tuning runs) has some failed part like a radiator or water pump as they themselves are brand new as well.

My overflow tank is a solid aluminum one from moroso so I can't tell if its even filling or not (run the overflow hose to the top, which has a built in vent, and bottom has a valve and petcock.

 

Update.

Did thermostat again and it didn't help. I also test the old one in boiling water and it works as it should so I can rule out the stat. Drained the coolant and removed the radiator. Inspected it and flushed it with a garden hose didn't see anything wrong internals looked clean no build up. Removed water pump and verified it was work properly as it spins freely looks almost new. One thing thats freaking me out is the timing cover seems to have a gap on the bottom at the base of where the water pump meets is this normal I honestly dont remember if thats supposed to be like that or not.

 

Im really confused now, just did a compression check and nothing seems out of the ordinary. Might try a block tester tomorrow if I can locate one.

1 179
2 177
3 179
4 168
5 175
6 173
7 174
8 174

 

change the fan turn on temp to 198 degrees, you have a 180 thermostat but it doesnt fully open until 188 degrees, so having the fans turn on at 180 degrees is keeping the thermostat closed in the early stages while the engine block gets hotter and hotter. I am not saying this is your problem but you can't have the fans turn on at the same temp as your thermostat, this cycles the thermostat open and closed open and closed not good for effective cooling.

 

the gap in the lower part of the timing cover is normal. Are you still using the WOT spark vs. RPM? What is your WOT timing table?

I am having a similar problem except mine continues to climb slowly unless I open the hood. I want to run A/C but I don't trust the temps clontinuing to climb. I also have the Mishimoto rad, recently had it replaced under warranty cause the old one was leaking at the ends. I've tried messing with the tune, bought dual electric fans, upgraded to a 3g alt, cut cowl hood and fit a 2010/11 gt500 heat extractor insert in, swapped to a high flow water pump (Tuff Stuff) but had to pull it back out cause I was having fitment problems with it, put on a cobra WP pulley, put the stock fan and shroud back on with Cobra pulley, was about to order a 1" fan spacer to put the fan closer to the rad... I got to thinking that maybe the 19lb radiator cap might be causing an issue from the cap not opening and using the extra fluid in the overflow. I am also looking at my motor mounts raising the front of my motor up, motor is currently at about a 6* angle.

I've also heard to turn the electric fans on about 10* higher than the thermo opening. I tried it on mine but I still had the same issue. Just trying to throw it all out there and maybe we can find a solution.

 

Yeah I know your feeling, I actually disabled the WOT spark advance and it did help somewhat to the point where I didn't hear an audible knock anymore but that doesnt mean it isn't detonating. I think my issue is the high compression, car is running lean and too much spark, bottom line it needs a professional tune. (part of my issue tuning is compiling data, I use a lm2 which I cant datalog the same time as BE since they are both usb devices, so I datalog afr stand alone than need to merge the data to make sense of it, and the bad news is it overheats pretty fast before I can get enough data to modified the maf trnasfer for proper afr)

I'm even second guessing my build at this point whether I forgot something like didnt cut the lower intake gasket coolant ports excess gasket material (l-ports x4 could be restricting flow ???), or reversed the head gaskets. But I really dont think so since I've tore the engine up and down some many times before I usually pretty meticulous about that stuff.

The compression test stumped me, as a last resort I'm going to pressure test the cooling system and use a block tester before I tear her apart again. Love cars simply money pits.

 

Another update, I bit the bullet and did the head gaskets again and it didn't help at all. I have an infrared heat gun and the coolant on the bottom hose (140) is cooler than that on the top hose (170) at idle. At this point I really dont know what else to try, maybe bypass the egr or the heater core. A local mechanic was saying he didnt like my dual fan shroud because it completely blocks the backside of the radiator. He suggest drilling holes in the shroud to allow air to flow through it, I'm under the impression the shroud being closed channels the air out the back of the fans?

 

I KNOW this is a nutty ?. But have U checked the rotation of the fan(s). I've had folks come to my shop w/heating probs & the fan was turning backwards(Wired wrong) Flipped the wires & wala!! Just a shot in the dark. I'm sure that U prob know they can be wired to push or pull(just flip wires + & -) W/O regard to which side of the radiator they R on they being DC current!!

 

Yeah unfortunately I tried that already, right now its a puller and wiring reversed as a pusher didn't matter.

 

I bet the water pump is spinning too fast... Do you have an underdrive pulley on this thing?

 

no under drive pulleys on this, I used to have them back in the day but went back to stock pulleys years ago.

 

lower hose

I am telling you, eliminate some of the possibilities. Put a spring in the lower hose!!!!!!!!! I didnt believe mine was sucking shut but it was, the spring solved it! Its the fact that its RPM driven that gives it away! Mine would only creep up at highway speeds when the air flow alone should have cooled it down!
Sorry for all the !!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Just started to research my dual fans a little more, now I know this goes against normal logic as the cars overheating on load and cruise not idle but my fans are only rated at 933cfm each. Could this be the issue? I know some people run 3000cfm or more I'm 1/3 of that. I'm going to see if I can get a spring to put in the lower hose if not maybe I'll mock up a solid bottom radiator hose to see what that does.

 

what dual fans are you running? if it is not a markviii, taurus or contour i would try one of these. seems like you have covered all the other cooling bases.

 

I bought the Mishimoto cooling kit a while back from LRS for 600 bucks. They come with a dual fan setup mounted to an aluminum shroud that blocks the entire back of the radiator. The fans themselves are slim design 12"'s and only pull 933cfm according to the manufacturer.

What worries me is I was trying to run dual fans because I don't think a single will fit around the upgraded crank pulley on my blower setup.

 

just took a look at your fan set up...yup...you need a better fan.
1986-93 Mustang 5.0L Complete Aluminum Radiator Upgrade Kit for Manual Transmission at LRS - Same Day Shipping!

 

Just looked at those contour fans and that looks like it might work since its a dual setup.

 

they fit fine with my 8 rib set up. i can almost guarantee you that your fans are not pulling enough air.

 

Get rid of those junk fans and install a taurus or mark viii fan it will fix ur problem

 

I bought a dual contour fan and I'm going to hook it up this weekend to see if it helps, at this point it has to be the fans. :eeek: Only thing now is can I get away with my dual fan controller or do I need to run two separates as I hear these guys pull alot of current. The current controller I use is setup for dual fans and has a 60A relay. If anything I'm going to rewire it anyway with 10ga or bigger.

 

i dunno if your current set up will suffice or not.
this is the controller i use and i am very pleased with it.
Flex-a-lite 33054 - Flex-a-lite Variable Speed Controllers - Overview - SummitRacing.com

 

Keep us posted

 

fans are coming from Cali so won't know until later next week but I'll give an update when I find something out.

 

any updates on the fans?

 

I installed them on friday and took it out on the weekend for a test drive. I was having issues with idle cutting out during decel and stopping so I didn't drive the car long enough to know if it was solved (car was having this idle issue prior to fan swap). After about 15mins on that 85 degree day the car reached 206 degrees which still seems high to me. I'm still stumped here prior to the heads/stroker/supercharger build the car used to cool really well. The engine would get upto 185, open the stat, than cool and you would see the gauge drop down a bit and actually do this over and over during the coarse of driving never getting much over 195. Now it seems it hits 185, opens the stat, drops down once than hits 185 slowly increases up and up. The harder I drive it the faster it heats up. I literally can move the temp gauge one notch up if I WOT drive it for 15 seconds.

 

I was contemplating bringing the car to Kevin Hand to check out and tune, but he's been slow getting back to me. I really don't want to goto Big Daddy as everytime I've talked to him he suggests I don't need a tune. I couldn't even get the car to start post build without playing with crank pulse widths, injector slopes, and maf transfer.