Are you 100% sure you mounted the front calipers on the correct sides of the car, so that the bleeder is up high? They'll mount both ways, but if you get it wrong, they won't bleed.

 

They are both mounted so the bleeder is on top of caliper

 

What MFE said.

I had SN95 stuff with stock MC/booster, and my pedal was pretty stiff and felt really good.

How did you bleed them? With someone else pumping the brakes up (this way works good as long as you have someone in the car that's really standing on the pedal as hard as they can. Your GF prob. won't cut it) does a good job, but takes some time. Using an air compressor is an awesome, easy and quick way you can do it yourself without the need of an assistant.

 

Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before installing?

 

Didnt want to start a new thead so ill ask my question here. I did a SN95 brake swap on my car with a 93 cobra MC and the plug for the PV and a adjustable valve for the back brakes and i still have a soft pedal. All i can think is i didnt bench bleed the MC. Could this be my problem? I do have the calipers mount correctly with the bleeder up. I bled all the brakes and have now leaks. Any input would be great???? Thanks

 

Also i do get a stiffer pedal with the booster unhooked when the car is not running????? also used a harbor freight air compressor bleeder kit to bleed brakes. I am stumped

 

The rear brakes are adjusted with the emergency brake is it hooked up?
If not, manually work the adjuster several times and see if that fixes it....

 

i dont have the cables installed or have them at all. This can be a problem?

 

Didn't bleed the master cylinder may do that after the later suggestion as I didn't hook up the ebrakes yet. Do I simply pull the lever where the cables would hook to rear caliper. This would make since to me and I didn't think about that. I did bleed with someone else also so I may try the compressor bleeder if these don't work.

 

After bleeding the m/c I like to reverse bleed at the calipers to push all air in the calipers/lines to the m/c and then vacuum bleed to pull any residual air out of the calipers. The recommended sequence I have read is passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front. I don't know how much it matters but that's what I follow. The bleeder below has worked very well for me.

V5 DIY Reverse Brake Bleeder - Phoenix Systems

 

It matters simply because you start with the caliper furthest away, and work your way to the closest. So the process generally is always the same.

Bench bleeding the MC is def. better, but not necessary. Just takes longer to bleed the brakes once everything is installed, that's all.

 

It matters simply because you start with the caliper furthest away, and work your way to the closest. So the process generally is always the same.

I understand the logic, but what I said was I'm not sure how much it matters (on the fox mustang). The two rear calipers being essentially equidistant from the m/c for instance, and on a non 3-2 converted m/c the fronts are completely separate from caliper to m/c anyway. Regardless, I follow the order because you might as well have some sort of order to follow.

 

is everyone using 94 & 95 spindles or 96+ spindles? im about to do this in the near future but hear the 96+ tracks the wheels different or something like that

 

Well wasn't the parking brake issue. Guess I'll tru to bench bleed the mc then use a compressor bleeder.

 

Anyone have the master cylinder thread sizes?

 

I'm guessing you're looking for those plastic inserts to bench bleed your MC?

Did your MC not come with them? I bought mine from MM, and mine didn't come with them, I had to borrow a kit a buddy of mine had. I looked around briefly, and couldn't find anyplace that had them.



You know, I'm sort of in a similar boat as you. Maybe. What I have at the moment, is 13" Cobra's up front, stock SN95 rears, 94/95 Cobra MC, stock BB. I was fine with the stock BB with the standard single piston calipers up front, but now with dual, I have to press the pedal much harder (i.e. not as much assist as what I had before) and I'm wondering if maybe that's what you're running into, as your PBR's are dual piston as well, correct?

I know for me, it seems as the only way I'll now get my pedal back the way it was is to install the 93 Cobra BB. You might just end up having to do the same. Or, you could use the 94/95 which are physically the same size, but the stud placement is slightly different.

 

Worked on it again today bleed mc and used a air compressor bleeder and still a ton of air bubbles. Hopefully I can track down the leak tomorrow

 

Do you have your Adjustable Prop Valve set correctly for bleeding the rear brakes?

 

I think so it is open all the way (counterclockwise)

 

Wouldn't that be closed all the way?????
Mine needs to be turned in(cw)for MORE rear brake,out(ccw) for LESS.

 

gordonsta, what part of alabama you in?

 

Near Huntsville

 

yall are right would be all the way in. I'll retry tomorrow

 

Tried that and still no luck. I used the bleeder on all the connection including the lines on the banjo bolts and all bleed fine with no bubbles. I did take the bleeder valve off and that showed no bubbles but with it connected there are millions of tiny little bubbles. Am I over looking something? The pedal is horrible and the car doesn't like to stop

 

Did you gut the proportioning valve, and if so, did you install the solid FRPP plug in it?

 

No I eliminated it with the maximum motor sports kit and used and adjustable prop valve from wilwood

 

I Teflon taped the threads on the bleeder and that allowed me to bleed. Still the pedal feels spongy and stops but not like I think it would