sounds like ur starting solenoid is bad. had that happen to me once.

 

I replaced it and sitll nothing.

 

igntion switch.?

 

charge your battery?

 

battery is fine. It starts fine when you jump it on the solenoid....but nothing is happening when you turn the key.....Turn the key ON and it turns the normal stuff liek lights and gauges and such, then turn it to START and no clicking and the "CHECK OIL" light ocmes on....nothings happening. My roommate suggested I do it "race car" style and have it on a momentary switch with my nitrous switches in the ashtray...but i dont wanna do this, its tacky IMO.

 

Check your grounds.

 

double checked everything. only thing i can think of is this big ended ground wire that comes out of the harness right behind the intake n the firewall. i grounded it to the lower intake back bolt....should i be grounding it to the firewall instead???

And my motor has NO ground strps to the firewall....this an issue??? I never remember any being there before the motor swap.

 

Yes, your motor should have a ground strap running from the back of the driver-side head to the firewall....that COULD very well be your problem, where the harness is grounded is fine by the way.

 

where does it mount to on the head??? and on the firewall, should there be specific spots?

 

Also, it did start with jumping the solenoid...so that means thata ground strap from the block won't affect that???

 

Well, try it and find out. Yes, there should be a hole/bolt that the ground strap mounts to on the firewall, as well, there is a threaded hole on the back of the head.

 

wheres it at on the head, like above the smog tube or what???

 

Yes, feel around, you'll feel it.

 

sweet, ill try it in the morning....too tired to head out there now lol.

 

Have you replaced the ignition switch that the key engages or messed with/checked the wiring for it? Seems like you may need to back-track a little to before the swap. Maybe you changed something involved with the ignition start-up wires and just are missing it. Hapens to the best of us. I'd check around the computer and in the steering column. Look for smashed, cut, or unconnected/misconnected wires. Just my $.02...

 

Hooked up the ground strap and still no go.....

I drove home from the track that friday night and barely hobbled home before the engine gave its final farewell and died. pushed it into the garage, popped the hood and removed it and began wrenching away on the radiator, accessories, intake, etc.....everything looks reconnected under the hood. ignition switch looks stock and hell, im out of ideas...

Theres 2 switches behind the clutch pedal...one behind the clutch quadrant and one behind the top of the pedal itself, both look like switches....what are their names and functions? thanks.

 

The 2 switches your talking about at the clutch is the neutral safety switch. One lets you get power with the clutch pressed and the other is for cruise control, when you press the clutch it cuts off the cruise. You can run a short jumper wire looped from 1 to the other, and the car should crank even in gear if thats the problem. The wire also mentioned above goes on the back of the drivers side head. I know first hand that it won't run right without it connected. My personal opinion is that you have some sort of problem with the starter or the connection at the starter. Does all your interior lights and all power accesory's work right ? There is also an ignition swith in the plastic under the steering wheel, maybe check that, If I remember correctly its not to expensive. I know that these problems are frustrating, I had a problem a while back myself. Good Luck

 

OK, well the one under the quadrant isnt mounted but it looks like when the clutch is depressed, it release the switch into a "rested" state, which it is in right now. All power accessories inside work, dash lights, etc.....no power is getting to the solenoid though, thats the problem.......when you turn the key to ON, everything comes on, fuel pump, the "ring" sound, ya know, the usual., Turn it to START and nothing....the "Check Oil" light comes on but no clicking, nothing. the voltage drops a bit but thats it.....

like i said, we jumped it with a screwdriver and it fired right up but it seems as there is no power hitting the solenoid for osme reason.

My roommate suggested using the 4th switch in my ashtray switch panel as the starter one, like a Race car/NASCAR...but i dont want that hsit, i want to start it like a normal car!!!

 

ttt still need some help guys!!!

 

Did you ever get the ignition switch that I was talking about thats in the steering column ?

 

no i didnt, i dunno how hard it is to take out....its just odd that would suddenly go out...

 

I was thinking of something while at work tonight....

the previous owner/car lot mechanic mentioned something about before a pin came loose in the steering column or something and it wouldnt start. he said he pushed it back in orp ut a new one in and it fired right up no problems since but i THINK he said keep an eye on it....any idea on this pin thingy in the ignition/steering column??? This oculd be the key i was looking for to fixing it

 

LS1KLR,
i don't know where your at as far as your diag, but heres my input. the ign. switch is mechanical, it wears out. you can adjust it by moving it forward and backwards. losen the two screws that hold it in place. try sliding it backwards, then turn the key. your contacts are most likely worn. if that doesnt work pull the conector of and jump the power lead to the ignition lead (make sure it's not in gear if you have the clutch switch bypassed). if the ign. lead is not open it should start right up. if it doesn't check from the ignition lead from the ign. switch conector to the soleniod conection ( with an ohm meter). if its' open then thats the problem. you can track the open down, or the easier thing, run a new wire (of the same diameter). if it starts up (when you jump the two leads) and you can't adjust the ign. switch, then you need a new one. good luck!

 

trhanks for th help, il ltry that in the morning!

when you say ignition lead, whats that?? Where exactly are these wires? thanks.

 

trhanks for th help, il ltry that in the morning!

when you say ignition lead, whats that?? Where exactly are these wires? thanks.

when i say ign. lead, i'm talking about the red wire with the 90deg. boot that is on the top of the soleniod. check from that wire back to the ign. switch connector. not for sure on this but the wire should be the same color and size at the ign. switch connector. use an ohm meter to check for continuity. if the circuit is in tack, then find the "hot" lead at the ign. switch connector. jump the "hot" lead to the wire that goes to the soleniod. if it start's up then you bypassed the ign. switch and verfied that it's at fault. then you can replace it or try adjusting it if you haven't already. let us know what you find!