That's a little much, but I wouldn't worry about it. What grade of oil are you running?

 

Drop some 0w-20 in it and see what she does....

 

That's with castrol 5w30 regualr oil, when everything is broken in will it drop any? So I should try 0w20?? And when is a engine considered fully broke. In?

 

With 300 miles it's well "broken in" the rings seat pretty quick, ever thing else is floating on an oil film we hope. Try a 5-30 fully syn. it should drop about 10 psi or so atleast thats been my experiance when switching from mineral based to fully syn oil. Like was already said...Let it warm up. Let the oil temp reach 200* before spinning the motor up & all should be well. I wouldn't worry about it.

 

also is there anything that high oil pressure can hurt besides breaking an oil filter? and what oil pressure should i look out for to let off if it gets too high?

 

Im not a fan of anything over 80psi until you get near 8K rpm. As a rule of thumb, 10psi for every 1k rpm (after you get to 1k rpm). With the pressure too high, you can eat the gear off of the dist and wash your bearings.

SWS

 

so then should i swap to a standard pump? the machine shop i had all the work done at ensisted on selling me the high pressure pump, yes high pressure not high volume. i had to asked a couple of times and he told me to run it, the shop has built some sick engines and is very reputable. i just dont know what i should do now. the car runs awsome! im just very paranoid with this new engine.

 

depends on which high pressure pump they put in. Standard melling is 65 psi relief, 80 psi is an option and then there is 100 psi.

Your pressures don't sound too abnormal although the small journal 302 doesn't really require anything real whicked to keep things happy. Biggest danger of high oil pressure, cheap oil filters will drop into bypass, and not filter the oil.

Second biggest danger in the 302 is twisting off the pump drive if you don't allow things to warm up, your hot pressures sound a little high for a 302, but just about perfect for something on a 3" main journal.

The cam drive gear is a concern, and a good bleed point is to pin hole the galley plug adjacent to the cam drive and let it have its own direct spray oil. Cools and lubes the thing. THe modification on my engine bleed off about 10 psi total pressure. My concern is pump load and lifter spring load.. so all the cool and lube I can get on the drive gear is good.

Pressure is a result of volume pushed, and designed leaks to the system, the only differnce between your pump and a standard pump, is the relief spring, standard pump drops into internal bypass at 65 psi. You have a standard pump volume wise, with a stronger spring. Moving the oil through the engine at higher pressure is better than having it circulate within the pump.

Bigger concern is, is hopefully the intent of the engine isn't real high RPM, as it sounds like clearances are more akin to a stock or street build, REAL TIGHT, for long life, versus loose for great oil flow, but more frequent rebuilds. Give it 1000 to 3000 miles of driving to figure out if your still concerned. Just remember to let the thing warm up before beefing all over it.

 

The cam drive gear is a concern, and a good bleed point is to pin hole the galley plug adjacent to the cam drive and let it have its own direct spray oil. Cools and lubes the thing. THe modification on my engine bleed off about 10 psi total pressure. My concern is pump load and lifter spring load.. so all the cool and lube I can get on the drive gear is good.

Ever drilled piston squirters in the rods? How much pressure would that lose?

 

I've heard of pressed-in brass freeze plugs being forced out of galleries from high pressure(Whatever that is).

Can anyone verify?

Also is bearing wash exactly what it sounds like?

 

I don't think cup plugs belong in oil passages either way. If I rebuilt an engine with something like that, it would get tapped for pipe plugs.

 

I also agree with the oil mod in the galley plug. The reason I think 80 is too high is that you implied that with 80psi cold, you were still below 3k. Is this true? What is the hot pressure?

SWS

 

warm idle is 30-40psi cruising 65-70psi

From OP first post.

The 3" main configuration in the block that sits in the car that collects dust, has a Titan dual geritor billet pump in it. And we set the relief spring for 110 psi, Cold idle is bout 80 psi, hot idle about 40. At 9200 RPM the thing used to bump the 110 psi spring, with the oil squirter mod, now it sits right at 100 psi at Peak RPM.