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Engine Break-in - Oil Type?

14K views 8 replies 8 participants last post by  ponyboy19  
#1 ·
Im just finishing my 347 build and was wondering what type of oil is ok to break it in with? It has moly rings if that makes a difference. Im reading two different things, some say to use a non-detergent oil and some say to use regular oil like 10w40. Which do I use?

Clay
 
#2 ·
oil is oil to me man. Use the best oil the auto parts store got. And just don't punch it for a while and let it warm up before taking it out. Some people say "this" and other people say "that" on what kind of oil to us but the only thing that realy matters is letting it break in correctly(being easy on her for a good bit) But if you preffer to use a non-detergent oil go ahead.
 
#4 ·
I used NAPA 10W/30 non detergent oil when I broke in my motor (trade secret, Valvoline makes NAPA's oil). I ran it for a day and changed oil and filter to be sure all the particles came out. I refilled it with clean NAPA 10W/30 again and a new filter and ran it for another 500 miles and then switched to Torco syntetic 10W/40. It has been running for a year with not a problem. The main thing, is keep the foot from mashing the pedal down untill you put at least 500 miles on it if you want it to last. If it is a drag race engine, warm it up and GO.
 
#5 ·
#6 ·
Driving like a puzzy for "500-1000 miles" is NOT how you break in an engine. For a roller cam motor, read the links for the correct way. You want to give it 1/2-3/4 throttle pulls in gear, 2nd or 3rd should be fine, and let the car coast down in gear. Do this a few times but vary the gear, speed and rpm's. I just did this 2 weeks ago on my 347
I did the same thing and no problems here either with over 500+miles. Compression after two weeks is 172-168 all cylinders and exhaust is clean as a whistle.
 
#7 ·
No one mentioned driving like a *****, What was said is just don't WFO untill you get some miles on it. I lost my first new engine cause I floored it all over the place, even after the so called way to break it in was done by the book. It spun bearings and CCM would not warranty it.
It's your engine, follow whatever advice you want.
 
#8 ·
Grn97 is correct. That method pumps oil up into all of the parts of the motor. All of the bearings get nice and hard.

Why don't you talk to your machine shop? NAPA told me to run 10w30 and my machine shop said, "No your not!" They said run 40wt. for 20-30 mins, then drain the oil and change the filter. Then run 40wt. again for like 1000 miles and then run 15w-40 for life or until you switch to synthetic.

Many car manufacturers use 10w30,5w30, etc. just to meet different specifications (not neccesarily great for the engine). Remember the little number is the oil's base weight.