When putting a tremec or "Z" T-5 in our cars, you need to either put a driveshaft spacer or get a longer driveshaft. Are the spacers safe? It always seemed to me that if you put a spacer with longers bolts, when you dump the clutch or powershift, it would be putting a heck of a force on those bolts. Without a spacer, it pretty much has to shear the bolts off, but with a spacer the head of the bolt moves away from the rearend and you now have the spacer that can twist a hair which seems like even though it is tight, it could twist like heck on those bolts. Am I off base here in my thinking or is it better to cough up the 4 bills for a new shaft?
XSPOWER
Just went on to steeda, 50 bucks!! for a damn chunk of aluminum!! I can have my drive shaft resized for that price or a little more! Is there any other companies selling these spacers? I noticed it's not very think either, will it work for a tremec? I'm not trying to steal your thread XSPower, I'm just curiuos too!
I didn't know the spacer bolted to the pinion flange. I just assumed that longer bolts went thru the driveshaft, thru the spacer and then to the flange. With the spacer bolted to the flange I would have no fear of it. Makes good use of the extra holes in the flange. What brand spacer did you use?ron 95gt said:
oh man.. its been so long i dont remember where i got it. i do know mine is steel though and most places now make it in aluminum.. i think im gonna take mine out and copy it in aluminum on my dads lathe cause the steel one is friggin heavy!! lol.. and miley it works for a tremec. that is what i run.. the spacer only gives you another 5/8"
Steeda was the only outfit I found that makes em.
Their unit just uses the 4 longer bolts, and you discard the old ones.
We've pulled high 1.6 with it so far, but no real good digs yet.
My take: The bolts can only move to the side if there's clearance in the bolt hole. If all 4 bolts are tight, there's no room for them to go anywhere.
Their unit just uses the 4 longer bolts, and you discard the old ones.
We've pulled high 1.6 with it so far, but no real good digs yet.
My take: The bolts can only move to the side if there's clearance in the bolt hole. If all 4 bolts are tight, there's no room for them to go anywhere.
how do u know if u need a spacer? if i were to unbolt my driveshaft i could push it into the tranny some more, so naturally to get the driveshaft to bolt to the pinion flange i need to pull it out some. is this situation candidate for a spacer?
I installed a 3550 in my 94 and used a 1/2" aluminum spacer I made at work. From my understanding the 3550 has the same length input shaft as 86-93
T-5's. 94-95 cars, the input shaft was 17mm or 5/8" longer. I had to use a bellhousing from 86-93 car and a spacer on my aluminum driveshaft to make up for the 5/8" difference. My spacer is only 1/2" thick but I've had no issues in over 2 years of service. Also, for what its worth, I just used the longer driveshaft bolts.
T-5's. 94-95 cars, the input shaft was 17mm or 5/8" longer. I had to use a bellhousing from 86-93 car and a spacer on my aluminum driveshaft to make up for the 5/8" difference. My spacer is only 1/2" thick but I've had no issues in over 2 years of service. Also, for what its worth, I just used the longer driveshaft bolts.
It is normal to be able to slide the shaft in and out of the trans when installing it. As your car goes down the road and the rear end goes up & down the shaft will move in and out of the trans a little, so there has to be some slack. The spacer is only needed if you do a tranny swap like to put a tremec or "Z" t-5 trans in a 94-95. Most trannys are the same length but the 94-95 bellhousing is 5/8" longer than the fox cars. The input shaft on the front of the trans is also 5/8 longer. So if you go to a Fox style bell & trans or tremec set-up the trans etc. all move ahead 5/8" thus the need to put a spacer on the driveshaft.95cobraguy said:
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