Have to be careful with moving too much water on the street as it will never have enough time to cool down in its cyle. Besides that, I'm currently building a 331 stroker with an electric water pump. It has a signle turbo ON 3 kit 76/75 and we're playing hell trying to get the accesories to fit and line up. We have the CVF 302 electric water pump bracket and pulley kit with alternator, power steering, and crank 8 rib pulleys. When you change the position of the alternator higher and closer to the water pump to clear the turbo (on the passenger side) you cant run the single belt to crank pulley anymore like the kit wants. Also cant route it around the water pump pulley because there is no pulley. We have to add an idler pulley no matter what to get it under the pump to the crank on the passenger side or go over the pump to the driver side and around an idler pulley down to the crank. Power steering is on its own belt on the driver side.

Basically the fact that we have an electric water pump and turbo slowed down progress pretty good. If i were you dailying it i would get a Flo Kooler manual water pump and a better set of electric fans. You can run them off a simple $30 fan controller and have them come on earlier like 180-185 so it doesnt have to work as hard to get it cooled down when they turn on. Or turn them on sooner in the tune. Also 3 core aluminum rad. Should be good to go.

 

If i were you dailying it i would get a Flo Kooler manual water pump and a better set of electric fans.

Wow, that must be really tiring! I'm surprised FlowKooler would market such a product, I can't imagine there's much demand for a manual pump.

 

What are you running for a radiator?

 

Sve aluminum

Last pic was mock up with an older v belt cvf kit. This is the kit were working with to modify:

https://www.cvfracing.com/ford-289-...RCwARIsAAhRhsncwdWVY_2bqnkzULDOEAanqcOZNizLGVIhisFHezGwU9xZeo4SWFcaAp8HEALw_wcB

 

You are by no means running hot or overheating. I run those temps here in Phoenix with AC on in traffic.
Flow is your friend. Stick with a two row radiator with at least 1" tubes. Use a FlowKooler or Edelbrock high flow water pump. A 195° high flow t-stat as well. Try lowering fan on/off temps a bit. Your major concern should be intake air temps.

 

I’m running a Taurus fan and a Griffin 31x19 radiator, not sure on the specifics but it’s huge, new fan or radiator aren’t an option as clearance is a huge issue and the radiator is custom made for my application, I realize the car isn’t really running hot I just figure I may be able to keep the temps a little more under control, I have a set of hood louvers that I may install to help remove some heat but I may just start with the Cobra pulley and see what happens, I don’t think I want the fan to come on any sooner as that would force it to stay on more often, ideally I’d like to run right below 200 if possible without the fan, looking for the sweet spot I guess.

 

My single turbo engine engine ran "warm" for "my" liking. Would run 205-215 in heavy/stop and go traffic traffic on a warm summer day. Was running Aluminum Fluiddyne radiator, stock wp with cobra pulley, under drive crank pulley, and Taurus fan using a 195 thermostat. IMO the biggest problem was not enough airflow at low speeds with a large intercooler blocking the radiator. Never had voltage issues either- running a 130amp alt. I also run an R block, so it has different cooling passages compared to the stock block which also did not help.

I now am running a Meizere Electric wp (55 gallon model). Runs about the same temp in heavy/stop and go traffic.

What really helped me cool the engine down is running E85 now. Engine will run 195 except on the 90-95* days in heavy stop and go traffic. Than it might see 205* at most.

Switching over to a twin turbo setup now. Hoping the heat won't be much hotter than it is now.

 

Don't listen to the folklore about water not having enough time to cool down. That is an old fake folk tale. Unless you move the water so fast it gets into weird eddy currents or something cavitates, the faster you move it the more things cool off. As a matter of fact that is how a thermostat works, it SLOWS water to make the engine hotter and speeds it to make it cooler.

I run a 55 GPM electric on my turbo. Turbos do dump a lot of exhaust heat under the hood that otherwise would exit out back under the hood, and that is a pita for cooking things. Most of the heat is from the wasted fuel, so the better you get your tune the fewer issues you will have. I watch my street tune carefully, maximum MPG winds up being least heat problems.

There are a few basic things to get your head around. The radiator outlet tank has to be 15-30F below the target engine, otherwise it has no headroom to pick up heat.

The water flow has to be enough to keep it at target, the slower the water the hotter it will run.

If the radiator gets too hot the last thing you never slow the water. You speed up the air. The air always has to be enough to keep the outlet tank 15-30F below engine target, or more if you have poor flow.

My target temp is 160-170. My fan system watches the cold tank temp. I run the fan through a Derale PWM controller. It starts to run at 130-135 and is full speed by ~145-150F.

My Mezier 55GPM pump idles at a sluggish flow whenever the key is on run. It starts to ramp at 150F in the manifold water outlet port by the T-stat housing (housing is empty). By 165 F it is all in at full water speed.

I just have a junk Mishimoto Mustang Fox type radiator, modified a little, and a single large Derale fan.

I can drive anywhere and my car never gets over 170F. I can hot lap high 4 second passes at the track until the transmission and turbo pipes get too hot for my comfort, which is about two passes.

My full cool down time for the engine is about 3-5 minutes. That takes it down to <100F. The transmission and turbo body is the killer.

I can't see why you would have any problem with a belt driven pump. Of course then you would need a t-stat because you can't slow the pump. Use a high flow T-stat! The rest is radiator and fan and the tune.

 

Where in CA. does the op live? Summer temps?

 

I’m in the Bay Area, never gets above 80 where I live, I’m swapping in the Cobra Pulley now, it’s 1.5” smaller than the Pulley that was on there, should make a huge difference in flow I’d think. I’m going to measure the tanks with a heat gun at operating temps and report back.

 

Why do you need to cool your water pump?

 

Don’t understand what you are trying to say Mark?

 

Wise crack, based on the thread title.

I try my best to be useless......:laugh:

 

Id get a 180 degree thermostat and some hood vents. Also are you running turbo blankets for the hot sides?

 

A 180* T-stat does not make the engine run cooler.

 

So got the Cobra Pulley installed today, needed a 1.5” smaller belt, ran the car up to temp in the garage and it stayed around 200* and the fan cycled on and off, measured the lower coolant hose and measured 170*, I’m not real confident in that number as I’ll need to check a few other places, the turbo outlet is in the way of the lower tank on the driver side. But so far so good.

 

I'll second what Tom's saying - the idea that the coolant can "move too fast" in any sort of realistic scenario is complete nonsense.

 

having coolant temps of 210f in city traffic is NO big deal, its better

you reject more btus of heat the hotter the coolant is........

you are not racing in traffic, so why care about those temps, they are perfect.

 

What are your cruising temps?

 

Cruise temps are around 200, I need to install a LED to let me know my fan is on, I’d like to ensure I can cruise without the fan running. I know that the 4” thick inter cooler is probably an issue but I think the Cobra Pulley will help, need some better weather to gather some more data.

FYI the Cobra Pulley from ASP (I think that’s who makes it) needed to have the holes enlarged slightly as they didn’t line up with the water pump, the March Pulley I had on there didn’t have that issue.

 

reverse and standard rotation waterpumps, have a different hole pattern on the pulley mount, so you dont mix them up

which way is your waterpump spinning?

are you positive you have the correct waterpump?

 

in my experience the 170 thermostat works great. a 195 thermostat just starts flowing at 195, doesn't fully open.

I prefer it be fully open so I can can keep my operating Temps around 190 max.

no real reason to restrict flow after reaching operating temp.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

Why not remove the t-stat all together then?

 

That’s a really good question, which setup is correct, when I search belt routing I find both ways listed. Is it the same thing but a different way of doing it, calling summit now to confirm which pump I have, it’s been along time since I bought it.

 

Either is correct for a reverse rotation pump. The back of the belt is driving the pump in either configuration.

In cooling, higher bulk flow of coolant and air, coolant capacity and radiator surface area (including tube surface area) are all your friends. Up to a point. For instance, bulk flow is good as long you are not cavitating or so turbulent you have localized boiling somewhere because of it.

Temps under 210 deg F are absolutely nothing to worry about. In fact, OEMs are targeting those temps for longevity and efficiency. Running fans below 190 deg is a waste unless you need to be really cool to start a 1/4 mile pass or something really specific like that.

Just some high level points from somebody that deals with cooling systems at the OEM level.

 

Confirmed I have a reverse rotation pump, the pulley set from March was for a reverse rotation setup and it fit perfect, the ASP was very slightly off, I may have drilled the holes 1/16” larger to get it to line up, I think it was a manufacturing issue.

 

incomplete or not

 

Subd , need to consider changing my water pump as well

 

?

 

https://forums.corral.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=971556&d=1546998882

its not hard to see from above

that this will be very difficult to keep engine coolant temps near desired setpoint

 

oh my lord........

 

Most modern cars do not switch from a low speed fan setting to a high speed fan setting until the engine reaches 220*