Permatex makes a product called "Right Stuff". It's a black gasket maker, and is much stronger than RTV. Available at NAPA auto parts. Comes in a caulk tube or a pressurized tube for easy gasket application. I learned a long time ago to use a gasket OR gasket maker, not both. Hope this helps.

 

Make sure the mounting surfaces are flat and not scored.

 

I use a thin and I mean so thin you can barely see it layer of Permatex water pump and thermostat RTV: Gasket Makers : Permatex® Water Pump & Thermostat RTV Silicone Gasket on the pump to plate gasket. Then I really crank the pump to plate gasket bolts down and mount the pump. I use Permatex Hi-tack to hold the plate to timing cover gasket on the timing cover. This method has stopped any and all leaks for me. Most of the parts store pumps (even the new ones) are not completely straight (Chinese made) and will leak without sealer.

 

Be sure that the two bolts that hold the plate into the BACK of the cover are reduced-thickness-head bolts. Many of the remanufacturers will put a regular bolt head there, and that causes the bolt head to hit the front cover making it difficult/impossible to get the pump to seal at the gasket because the bolt head/cover interference won't allow the pump surface to sit flush with the front cover surface. Absent that problem - if the surfaces are clean/true -- the paper gasket it should seal it tight without any other materials at all. I coat the paper with a dressing like Hylomar which makes disassembly/clean-up easier the next time.

If surfaces are correct (clean/true) --- paper gaskets should seal dry or with dressing; rubber gaskets/orings with a bit of grease/oil (so they slide and don't bind); graphite/paper/metal composites dry. I've only used RTV on metal to metal seals (tranny tail shaft housing to the main housing for example) or a dab at tricky interfaces like where 3 surfaces come together (block/head/lower intake in the corners or oil pan/block/front cover in the corners). And the RTV's/gasket makers are good in a pinch...

 

I've been 100% with std. Fel-Pro paper gasket and Form-A-Gasket (the one that hardens, can't remember if it's #1 or #2), putting it on both sides of gasket.

Also easy to clean off vs. scraping silicone. It'll pretty much wipe off with Acetone.

 

I use the regular old gaskets in kits or FelPros without ever having a gasket leak.

I have changed about five pumps because they were junk. One pump had the impeller actually cut through the housing. Three of them had front seal leaks. The OEM pump developed a bad bearing.

I don't use any RTV. Just the gasket. I do use a minimal amount of gasket tack on one side of the gasket that I let set up to hold the gasket in place.

Like Michael says, make sure the bolts are correct. Besides the thin heads required on some bolts, make sure the other bolts are not bottoming out. I've had to cut or make bolts with some pump and TC covers.

 

I used Hylomar Universal Blue gasket sealer on all the WP gaskets.

Best choice for that job imo.
Non setting and originally developed to seal jet engines.

No problem separating parts after extended use.

 

Thanks for the responses guys. I cleaned everything up real good and used a little Perma Tex high tack with the Felpro paper gaskets, and torqued the bolts down to 15 ft/lbs. I have used the high tack on my last timing cover install and it worked great. The engine is getting there.

 

Thanks for the responses guys. I cleaned everything up real good and used a little Perma Tex high tack with the Felpro paper gaskets, and torqued the bolts down to 15 ft/lbs. I have used the high tack on my last timing cover install and it worked great. The engine is getting there.

Nice looking engine! Good luck with the build, and please let us know if you get any more drops. Mine drips EXACTLY the same as you describe, and I'm debating how to repair. Thanks.

 

Did you use sealer on the WP backing plate gasket?

 

I used grey permatex on my pump, plate on the back and to timing chain cover, no leaks.

 

Ultra gray or black permatex has never failed me. The main thing to look out for is having clean, smooth and straight surfaces. I always use a skin coat of rtv or high tack on paper gaskets, especially if I suspect surface irregularities i.e. on warped t-stat housings.

One big thing that almost always gets overlooked is checking whether a fastener goes into a water jacket - you MUST USE THREAD SEALER on these bolts. This applies to some of the longer water pump bolts on small bock fords. If you don't use sealer, sooner or later it will leak for sure and possibly cause you to go insane trying to find out where the leak is coming from.

 

Actually, it's a good idea to use thread sealer on all the water pump bolts. Aluminum pump housing, steel bolts, cast iron block, aluminum front cover --- AND the possibility of coolant in contact with the some of the bolts. All potential for multiple types of corrosion. I coat the whole bolt with ARP thread sealant (never sets up) --- seems to help stave off the corrosion that's common in this area.

 

Are you sure its not running from the bottom weep hole, to the bottom edge to look like a back side leak?