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best bumpsteer kit?

6.8K views 18 replies 13 participants last post by  Jack Hidley  
#1 ·
im looking in to buying a bumster kit since im redoing my front suspension the rest of my suspension is maximum motorsports so i was kinda lining toward them but what about steeda? any input?
 
#2 ·
Its a generally accepted rule of thumb to not mix and match suspension components from different companies. I have the MM bumpsteer kit and IRS rear steer kit, both are great kits and they have excellent installation instructions with them. Stick with MM you wont be dissapointed.
Anthony
 
#3 ·
I have the MM ones too, they're actually sourced from Baer. I got them because they have a tapered stud which does not require spindle modifications as some of the cheaper ones do, and because I know they don't sell junk.
 
#7 ·
No, the ones I got from them didn't require any drilling and I wasn't even aware they sold any that did.
 
#15 ·
I recommend taking it to a machine shop for REAMING (more accurate "drilling") the hole for a 5/8" bolt. They do the work, and have more precision. Plus the material you are drilling is VERY strong, and will dull drill bits. Let THEM worry about it...

Image
 
#16 ·
Yes I do. I am NOT talking about the factory tie rod ends compared to aftermarket kits. I am talking about aftermarket tapered kits like Baer, MM, Steeda, etc sell compared to the ones where you ream out the spindle to 5/8" for a thru bolt. Please explain to me how a bolt is "so much stronger" than a properly designed and seated taper.

Picture of the "weak" Steeda kit for a real apples to apples comparison http://www.steeda.com/store/-catalog/SteedaBumpSteerKit.htm
 
#17 ·
BTW, I did not drill out my spindles with a hand drill. If anyone would try that they are just crazy. I used a big drill press.

tntturbo- That steeda kit looks like you can only make moderate changes compared to the griggs kit I posted as the length is shorter. Let me pose you a question to you. If the tapered kit is so strong then why would mm/griggs/hpm/etc.. out there go to a 5/8" bolt on their wider range of adjustment kit? I think the answer might have something to do with leverage when you have the kit configured furthest away from the spindle locating spot.

I’d love to get into a great engineering debate but I’m 10 years rusty on those classes. :hammer:
 
#19 ·
MM sells two different bumpsteer kits. We don't source either of them from Baer or anyone else. Several years ago, while developing our own kits, we sold the Baer tapered stud kit.

The tapered stud kit (MMTR-2) is for cars that have stock K-members. It will generally give enough range of adjustment for a car with a stock K-member. The spacers in it are made of 4130 steel so they are strong enough to allow the nut to be correctly torqued without deforming the spacers. This kit requires no modifications to the spindles.

The bolt kit (MMTR-1) is for cars with aftermarket K-members. These cars need a larger range of adjustment than ones with stock K-members. The stud size that fits in the stock spindle isn't large enough in diameter to have enough strength when the tie rod is lowered 1.5" from the steering arm. The bending loads in the stud/bolt will be too high since it is loaded in single shear. The solution is to drill out the steering arm of the spindle for a 5/8" bolt. It has a much higher bending stiffness than the stud used in the MMTR-2 kit. It is possible to drill out the spindle on a drill press if, you have several incremental sizes of bits and the drill press can be turned very slow. It wouldn't hurt to have the hole drilled then reamed out by a machine shop to get a very round and precise hole, but it isn't necessary. I've modified numerous spindles on a drill press without any signs of fretting after the suspension was taken apart later. The spacers in the kit are also made of 4130 steel so they are strong enough to allow the nut to be correctly torqued without deforming the spacers. These are the only bumpsteer kits that I'm aware of with this feature. Drilling out the steering arm of the spindle is not a strength issue. I'll post a photo later of an AI car that was in a front end collision with the MMTR-1 bumpsteer kit. The steering arm of the spindle is still straight, but the inner tie rod turned into an S.