what's the bad about welding axles tubes besides the fact that one has to make sure nothign's out of wack before doign so...???

 

posted by Capri,

There is a reason they do this instead of welding the steel tubes to the cast iron differential housing.... it's because welding on cast is a time consuming and expensive process to do correctly.

Here are two links explaining the proper way to weld cast iron.
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowl...ronpreheat.asp

Skip to page 5 for the good stuff in this link.
http://www.esabna.com/EUWeb/OXY_handbook/589oxy15_1.htm

Many people choose to weld their tubes, but it is almost always done incorrectly and results in a weld that looks good but has actually weakened the area instead of strengthening it.

So unless you completely disassemble the rear down to just the tubes and the carrier housing, heat it up slowly to just under 1000 degrees, weld the tubes with a nickle rod and then bury the whole piece in sand to allow it to cool very slowly, you are only giving yourself a false sense of security that the piece is stronger than stock.

If someone just grabs a mig welder and welds the tubes up with a common steel wire, when the stock factory plugs that hold the axle in place fail, so will the welds. They'll just tear away from the cast iron when the tube spins because of microscopic cracks that have formed from welding incorrectly on the cast iron.

My advice is NOT to weld the tubes unless you closely follow the directions in the link above or take it to shop that specializes in welding on cast iron.

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Found this to be informative, and since I am not a good welder, and its hard to find people you trust to do the proper work on your car i opted out of having them welded.

 

that makes sense and although i understand its not the right thing has anyone seen or heard of any of the mentioned failures/problems? any pics?

 

Find someone who knows what they are doing. I know of 4-5 guys in Mi that I would trust doing it.

I would not rely on a bolt on brace to keep the tubes in place.

Mine are welded and braced with some I built and have not had issues.

Tim

 

Never seen one have a problem. Seen a bunch done just have it done on a jig. Not re-inventing the wheel here. I have heard and just did a little research that the center section of a 8.8 is cast steel instead of cast iron. Not sure what the difference but the cast steel is suposed to be better to weld.

 

i've read its cast steel not cast iron as well...

 

when i did my 9 inch they talked me into a back brace and to had some tubes where the contral arm goes. i was looking at making alot of hp. i would not weld the tubes without having it in a jig

 

As previously mentioned, the center section on a 8.8" is cast steel, not cast iron.

 

I have personally welded my own housings axle tubes,and braces.Used 2 laps around the tubes.And they welded just fine.For the axle braces,I did diagonal 4130 tubing with rod ends and threaded bungs from the leading edge of axles to center section.I use Ford racing studs and nuts for the bearing caps,and a ford racing axle girdle.I have a stick car,and I leave hard WOT,off of a 2 step.1.54 60 ft,with a 306,at 5600 Rpm.This setup has relieved me of alot of maintenance as well as being reliable.Like side shims spitting out,and chipped or broken gear teeth.My last gearset had probley 450 hits on it.My rearend is the same one the car was built with since 1993.And it has ben raced for 10 years. The housing has been in this setup for 7 years.My housing definitly has over a1000 runs.I dont feel I have shortend the lifespan of my housing.All on a 28"X10" slick.All done in my own garage.
Also NHRA stock champion Evan Smith did a story,that shows axle tube,and floor damage in his car,before he change over to a 9".So there is a limit somewhere.

 

the tubes dont just twist they will bend forward and no weld will prevent that only a brace will, look at the 9 inch pictured above there are no tubes to twist it is a solid piece the brace is mainly to prevent the tubes from bending forward under accel

 

That brace looks bad ass, I may have to get one of those for my car as well.


Pics from CHE's website:

 

It's cast steel not cast iron. FWIW while the brace may look cool, how much does it weigh and have you actually seen an 8.8 in a drag setup bend?

 

yes. Both tires were rubbing the front inner fender well due to axle tubes being bent. It was on a 5.50 1/8 mile nitrous car @3100 lbs. A well preped 8.8 will go 5.0s in a nitrous car further in a turbo car, so a 200 dollar brace is cheaper than a 3500 dollar 9 inch if you dont plan on going faster than 5.0s. And a 8.8 with a brace is lighter than a 9 inch unless you build one with a aluminum center section and gun drilled axles now your talking 5000 dollars

 

This is what you need.
Tubes are fully welded and braces are fully welded & bolted too!

 

That looks good as well.


I was lookng on their site and they offer this one as well, its a axel brace with a bolt in brace for the girdle:

 

i've had the CHE on my car for about three yrs now without one issue, and it has had some serious abuse and no failures. i dont think you will go wrong with one of them. ac

 

Mine are very similar to the ones gmkiller fabricated. They make it very difficult to fit tailpipes. When I had a MAC catback on the car they rubbed pretty bad. Almost put a hole in the pipe by the time I removed them. I probably should have heated the pipe and put a kink in it.

 

I have the CHE brace and MAC exhaust. It has worked very well for me. My car is much slower than a lot of other members cars though.

 

I have both of che's axle braces. Have not got to try them out yet but hopefully this year! I know they fit and look nice and look like they will work nice!!

 

That looks awesome, I am going to try and get that setup for my car before it goes back to the track. (should be on slicks next time out)

 

i think if u have non adjustable contral arms i would get adj arms before getting that brace. the car will leave alot better with the right pinion angle.

 

Thanks for the responses guys. I currently have baseline uppers, and Weight jacker lower.