hopefully its not a convertible or you're in for a treat when you try to get the pedal assy in and out.:curses: the aod computer and driveshaft will work.you just need the common stickshift equipment and dont forget the thin plate between the block and bellhousing.

 

Elaborate on the convertible part please. I'm doing my swap this weekend.

 

Don't waste your time trying to cut the welds on the automatic crossmember to get the 5speed trans mounts to fit. Just get the T5 crossmember if you can or buy one there like $50 new.

 

its a pia with all the bracing.its that "you have to take off this bracket to take off the other bracket so you can get to another bracket" type thing.and its so tight in there.luckily,my convertible wasnt my daily driver because i had to walk away from the swap for a few days because i was about to throw the pedal assy through the windshield.

 

Uhh...my convertible's frame under the dash is no different than my hard top GT. I don't see what you are talking about for being a harder pedal swap. The only extra bracing that i do see is under the car and has nothing to do with getting the pedals in or out...............elaborate?

 

maybe i just thought it was harder because the last 2 swaps before the convertible were sn95.i just didnt remember having all these braces before and thought it must have been because of it being a vert.or maybe because this one in particular was done outside in the winter.whatever it was,it was a lot more miserable than normal.obviously, im mistaken on the extra bracing.

 

there is no difference between a vert car and a hatch/notch as pointed out. the only difference is the x under the car, and that won't effect anything.

as for tips and tricks, get some washers for your top two bell bolts...as they'll be too long for the t5 bell.

your aod flywheel bolts are slightly shorter, don't re use them. Get the arp flywheel bolt kit...cost you $10, and is worth every penny.

I'd suggest new flywheel bolts too (I love new hardware, makes me feel all warm and cozy inside).....only frpp has the right ones though, do NOT order they arp pp bolts...regardless of what it says, they're metric bolts for pre 86 cars.

your aod driveshaft will work fine....however it's a much tighter clearance...as the aod yoke has a balancer on the end of it that the t5 driveshaft doesn't have...making it slightly longer overall.

your aod computer will work fine.

pick up a t5 harness from a junkyard car or the forums/ebay. it's the harness that goes from the dr side kick, down the door sill, behind the rear seat under the carpet, and into the trans tunnel. It handles the backup lights, and I believe the neutral safety. 4cyl harnesses will work fine.

for the trans tunnel, you may notice your t5 will sit high in the trans tunnel (the base will actually protrude slightly into the car)....this did not hamper install of the boots at all. The factory t5 cars had an additional "hump" on the trans tunnel...if you're real anal, it could be cut out of a donor and welded to your car...completely unnecessary though.

to gain access to the last two shifter bolts at the trans, we had to snip away the furthest part of the trans tunnel. you'll understand when you get there.

Most importantly, treat the pedal install, and the t5 swap in two stages. the manual pedal install is a project of it's own, and will take a first timer hours to complete. You can drive with a manual pedal assmbly in an auto, so I'd seperate the project into two diff weekends.

finally...it is easiest to destroy the auto shifter to get it out. I got so damned fusterated, I just broke it apart, and that made it slide right out of the hole.

 

aod to t5

bump

 

I used the same crossmember..only the h-pipe bracket was different?

 

i just did it listen to V8only man did i miss that torque

 

whens it gonna stop raining!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

srshll,

The aod computer used with a t5 is mentioned as being ok and I'm sure it is. That being said there is another thread here (and current) saying that after using the aod comp w/t5 on a cold start the engine will race to about 3k rpm for a bit and then idle down. It does not do this on a warm restart.

Minor thing for sure but thought I'd give you a heads up on it.

AL

 

I never had that happen with my '93 GT and I had stock AOD computer, sounds like something else was wrong with that car. Mine ran perfect, you would never know it was auto before unless you looked at the door code. I did my swap along time ago, maybe 3-4 years ago at least. I used the auto driveshaft, same crossmember, and AOD computer. I didn't install the 5spd hump since it is easier to get the shift boot screws in without it. The only reason they really did it like that was to speed up assembly since they could just cut a messy whole then slap that cover over the floor pan. I trimmed mine out nice and even put edging around it, drilled some holes and installed the oem clips for the lower boot. It worked perfect plus I had an extra 3/4-1" to reach the PITA front lower shift boot screws.

While you are at it install a GOOD quadrant such as a Fiore or MM one and a Fiore firewall adjuster. They are the best out there period. Use a FORD cable or the MM adjustable one.

Lethal Performance sells the Fiore stuff now and it says there name on it..I installed one in a '04 Cobra last summer.

 

DSBLK93GT,

Here is the thread, look at post: 1. 4, 7 ,9 and 11.

http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?p=7605735#post7605735

I have zero experience with this but the consensus seems to be the A9P in a car converted to a T-5.

Like I said, just ran across this and thought I'd pass it along...

AL

 

I just went and replied in there, my friend did the t-5 swap in his 93 GT and it was 100% normal too. Both our cars were 100% stock low mile 93 GT's too. I got $10k for my car when I sold it and he got $13k+, they ran 100% normal, idled great, etc. I have seen people accuse the SD computer of causing stuff like this just to swap to MAF and do the same thing.

 

FYI my 93 gt has a 5 speed in it now with the ap9 cmoputer and it doesnt have the idle surge problem on startup. Just my vert that was a 4cyl-5.0 conversion

 

For the pedal assembly take the whole column out..... makes it alot easier

 

Thanks for all the info, just one more thing

Were do you bolt the clutch cable bracket to? Thanks Kevin