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Aluminum vs Steel flywheels ...again

5.4K views 20 replies 10 participants last post by  93SVTvenom  
#1 ·
I have read a few posts on the whole aluminum vs. steel flywheel battle. I guess the biggest question would be is it worth the extra coin. Some of the down falls I have seen on aluminum are the initial loss of torque due to the decreased weight ... and an advantage is the engine revs quicker. Since I have zero track time to date in a car on the road course can anyone explain in somewhat layman's terms the advantages on the RR. I did quite of bit of track days on my bike so I am familiar with the basics of weight and rotational mass but will be new to how these factors play into a car especially when applied to a road course.

I don't mind the extra expense if it is beneficial so the money isn't the issue. I just want to know clear cut + and - of the aluminum. I currently have a McLeod Super Pro Street clutch and I am ordering a Liberty TKO 600. If you need any other details on my set up to give me a better idea just let me know.

Thanks for the input
 
#2 ·
Removing mass is always good. Removing rotational mass, imo, is always good. Unless the car is a drag car, and even then it's debatable, there's no reason, other than financial, not to go with an AL flywheel. Makes heel-toeing much easier. Only tricky part might be driving on the street if you have 3.55s or higher and it's raining. In that case, just use 2nd gear. I love my McCleod AL flywheel, would do again.
 
#3 ·
Thank you sir ... I was pretty sure that the down sides were miniscule. I will have 3:55 gears but don't plan to DD the care often and the fact that heel toeing is easier will help a newbie like me perfect that hopefully. I don't think I will ever drag the car as that is not the intent of my build so that shouldn't be an issue either. Thanks again for the input. Cant wait for track school and first day out on the RR.
 
#4 ·
I ran a Fidanza Aluminum flywheel and Romac Ultra Lite (aluminum) balancer on the 327 in my 93. I loved it. It revved up quick and I found it easy to drive. 2 friends put aluminum flywheels in their Foxes after driving my car. Rev matching only needed a slight touch of the throttle as did the amount of throttle to get the car moving from a stop. I had 3.55s and a T-5, then a T-56. Eventually I had 3.73s installed. I never drove my car with with stock style flywheel and balancer on the 327 so I can't comment on the feel. A friend had a 331 with the TFS kit on it and stock style balancer and flywheel. His car felt sluggish in comparison. A Test & Tune night confirmed his car was slower :lol: I didn't have any issues in the rain. After a rainy HPDE, I'm convinced the torque arm really helped with wet traction. I would definitely use the aluminum parts again.
 
#5 ·
Great input ... Thanks. I am doing an Innovate West Balancer so it should work out nicely. May be a weird question but does this have any effect on cornering traction. I have all MM parts to include full coil overs except the T/A. I don't mind the occasional oversteering but don't want it going drift style as lap times will be my objective ... eventually once I get some training and track time.
 
#7 ·
Thanks again .. I will order the flywheel shortly. I am also going with an Innovators West balancer so it should rev out pretty easily I would think. Trying not to cut any corners on this as much as possible. Only reason I didn't do the TA was I wanted to make sure everything was sorted out first with the drivetrain and also make sure that ground clearance wouldn't be too big of an issue. T/A will happen eventually ... I want a driving school and some track time before I do anymore for a while. MFE had some solid advice in his "Sticky" post here. Thanks again for all the help ... Hope to see some of you all on the track one day (just for funsies though ... LOL)
 
#9 ·
I am pretty sure that is the way the McLeod comes ... I will have to take another look at it but I am almost positive that it has a steel center and aluminum outer. Good advice ... Thank you.
 
#11 ·
FWIW, my 86 has the stock flywheel and balancer, with 3.27s out back. With the T5s ultra low 1st gear, the 27s, heavy flywheel and rain, its a no go out of the hole. 2nd gear starts only with stock rear suspension. Even with the MM TA, the car is traction challenged in the rain. I elected to go aluminum flywheel and light balancer for the new motor.
 
#12 ·
I just changed mine from a aluminum to a Billet for a "happy medium" since I will drive mine on the street more than the track .. Don't have experience with aluminum but wanted to ensure a "little" comfort on the street as I hear the aluminum is more difficult to drive there especially in stop and go traffic. May change mind again though as I haven't purchased the part yet.
 
#14 ·
I've had an aluminum flywheel on my torque monster :)rolleyes:) N/A Subaru for over 10 years. The car weighs roughly the same as a Fox Mustang (~3300# or so with me) and has probably ~185ft-lb of torque. No issues at all driving it on the street, including DDing it in the ####ty bumper-to-bumper traffic on H1 in Hawaii for a few years.

I also have an aluminum flywheel on the Mustang, which isn't driven much at all, but has seen much more street time than track time. Again, no issues.

I think a lot of people who say aluminum flywheels aren't suitable for the street simply haven't driven a car with an aluminum flywheel.
 
#15 ·
Thanks for some real world Tech experience Patrick. That was what I was looking for. I know everyone is going to have a slightly different opinion on whether or not the liked it any why so right now I am about 50/50 between the billet and aluminum. Not picking up trans till Feb time frame so I have a while to contemplate = )
 
#17 ·
No Sir Mr. Jack ... Not needing physics lesson as much as trying find what would be best for a mostly street and some open track use. I don't want to go one way only to find out while I had the money I should have gone the other. I don't have any experience with the aluminum flywheels so I researched what others say from McLeod, Ram, and Spec about running on the street but also wanted to know what customers thought. I like the idea of what aluminum means on the track with putting power down more accurately but the negatives I heard may contradict that in my street driving. What would be your recommendations? I know you have experienced both so your input would be great as well. Thank you
 
#19 ·
Interesting tech notes. Thank you for sharing the links. Like I was saying. I watch an interview with the owner of McLeod and he was saying it wasn't good to drive on the street with one however; what you are saying contradicts that with quite a bit of good data to back that up. Aluminum does make a lot of sense in many ways but being novice and not having any experience "real world" left me with a lot of questions. Thank you for the advice Jack. I will give the aluminum a chance and see how it goes especially if it aids in shifts.
 
#21 ·
I have switched order back to aluminum .. I figure flywheels are easy enough to change out if it doesn't suit me I could always go back to billet or stock. Thanks for all the input = ) Happy Thanksgiving.