Stock block all day long with what you're doing. If you plan on pushing more power than 500+ at the tires, I'd look at an aftermarket block.

I'm still using my stock 1989 short block. I've beat the crap out of it N/A, with nitrous, and now with a turbo. This was the first engine I ever built in my life, and it's holding oil pressure just fine. Making 500 RWHP/560 RWTQ all last summer and the beginning of this spring, only thing that broke is the stock mainshaft of the T5.

From what I've read, people kill the stock block by going over 500-550 RWHP, spinning over 6000 RPM's, or having a bad tune.

 

I was in a similar postion and I buckled... I've gone the SHP route for my long rod 306, I'm running an internal balance 4340 crank, Scat 5.400 I beams with a CP Bullet flat top. Heads are TFS 11R 205cc milled to a 46cc chamber.

 

your probably ok with 325rwhp
But why not build something stronger so you dont have to worry about it. Go aftermarket block or if on a budget go with a 351w block. the 351W blocks are much stronger.

 

Stock block, stock crank.

 

Thanks for the replies. Drew, that's my issue. I want to reliably beat on her once in a while (the engine, not the wife) and not worry. And I worry when I see stock blocks failing at even 250 HP, which is pathetic. What if I detonate at 6000RPM? Kiss all the money I've spent on these parts goodbye? What if I went with the thicker crank from a pre-HO 302, 28oz balance. Then I'd just have to sell the 50 oz Romac for a 28.

On the other hand, 2700$ can easily buy an entire shortblock from places like TRE or Coast High Performance (no idea how good they are). Decisions decisions. FWIW, it will take about 2 months extra overtime at work to fund the Dart and forged crank.

 

CHP was great. Now, they've sold and are where, Texas or something? Can't recall exactly.

I read someplace too where their engine builder ended up. I think he's still out in Cali someplace. Mark on here would know.

 

I think they ended up in Alabama.

OP: I'd go halfway with your build. Stock block, but upgrade the crank to a forged piece and internally balance it.

 

Why would you put a forged crank in a stock block? That is a waste of money. The stock crank can take the same punishment as the stock block. Save the forged crank for a good block.

 

If I go the Dart route, how do I tell the wife that I'm another almost 3k in the hole?! If I think it's going to cost 5k, it ends up being 12k...and more overtime

 

Ummm....don't tell the wife? lol. That is how all of these projects go. Estimate what you think it costs, double that and then add 40% and you are close.

 

CHP was great. Now, they've sold and are where, Texas or something? Can't recall exactly.

I read someplace too where their engine builder ended up. I think he's still out in Cali someplace. Mark on here would know.

Their engine builder and some of their guys ended up with me at Custom Performance Racing along with some of their shop guys and one of their sales guys, Martin and I used to work for CHP back in the day as well.

As to the OP, in my opinion I would go stroker unless you don't want to change injectors or TB and the reason I recommend stroker is because of the extra torque and potential to make power in the future.

 

YEA WELL YOUR FATHER SMELT OF ELDERBERRIES

I think of the internal balanced cranks as helping the longevity of a built motor, getting the weight back inside the block.

Also easier to swap flywheels.

And some other reason I probably won't think of until 3am.

 

YEA WELL YOUR FATHER SMELT OF ELDERBERRIES

.

How you would know that is, well............disturbing.

 

Figure out what you're comfortable spending and go from there. If you have the money buy a dart block, forged crank, etc... I run dart blocks in my dragboat because we're making in excess of 1000hp, but I also run a forged crank, aluminum rods, etc...

My foxbody has a 347 with stock block, cast crank and 7lbs of boost. I did spend a little money on main studs, heads studs, and a quality tune. I also keep it under 6k rpm and with a set of small drag radials it's faster than most cars on the street.

For your HP goals it would be a waste of money buying a dart block and anything but a stock crank or cast stroker crank.

 

I'd only recommend shelling out for a dart block if you plan on boosting it as well. If you plan on staying mid 300whp then like others have said, there would be no reason for it.

 

I appreciate the time everyone took to reply...like I said, just trying to mitigate the concern over having spent on all of the parts and there even being a SMALL chance the block could go south. We know these blocks have cracked on even low HP combos, and places like Fordstrokers won't even build a short block using the stock block anymore. Coast High Performance STRONGLY discourages the 50 oz imbalance, another concern. The 340HP Ford Racing crate engine is using the Boss block and neutral balanced forged internals and Mahle forged pistons.

I know I'm playing devil's advocate here. I want to have this thing built/machined the best I possibly can, stab her in there and know I will most likely never have to pull the engine back out again. If I did, id have a block I could do anything with. I never plan on parting with the vehicle for sentimental reasons and having owned it for the last 18 years and moving it from state to state with me wherever I moved (ex military). I mean, 10 years from now, will the cost of a dart block and forged cam be something that I will regret? The cost will LONG be absorbed. I think I'm kind of answering my own question here.

 

If you want to future-proof it, then go with the Dart SHP and don't worry about it. You could even pick up a 4.125" bore block for the extra cubes, they cost the same as a 4.000" block.

 

Cast crank (scat), stock block, 6000rpm rev limit, 30k miles, salt flat runs, open track days, and weekend flogging shenanigans.

 

If you're going to spend the money on the Dart block, you might as well fill it with good parts (forged crank, rods, pistons).

You won't break a stock block with a naturally aspirated build making 320-350hp. That being said, if I had a 5k burning a hole in my pocket I'd let one of the reputable builders assemble a short block for me with Dart block, forged crank, rods, etc... I'd opt for a 347 and it'd make a lot more than 320hp.

Good luck with the build and have fun. Just remember if you go on line looking for trouble you'll find it. Nobody posts "Just wanted to let you know my car is running great!" People posts because they need answers to a problem, but I can assure you there thousands of hoped up 302's running stock blocks with no problems

 

Agreed on all accounts. Stock block is plenty for your goals. You could pick up a spare shortblock and take a vacation for the money you're going to spend.

 

You are over Thinking this. Get stock block checked for cracks if it passes then use it. Shp seems over kill. Call Ford strokers woody will help but he only uses dart blocks but I have a feeling majority of his customers are looking for more than 325hp

 

If you do a stock block, you will probably wish you had done an shp down the road when you want more

 

I was was in a very similar situation a few year back. For budget purposes I wanted to keep stock block/crank. It was also (and will remain) my one time engine build. I didn't/don't have the funds or desire/time to simply build another if I didn't like this one.
Long story short, I went with an R302 block and forged crank (3" for 306). As a result, my rpms became a product of performance requirements rather than a limitation, and instead of making 310-320rwhp I'm making nearly 370rwhp. I previously had no intentions of n2o, but now with the bottom end all sorted and capable, I may do just that on down the road. It's also nice to know I could slap a set of "real" heads on it and make ~400+ and spin it to 7500+rpms if I ever desire.

I cannot tell you which is the right way to go, but I'm real happy with having gone the overkill route.
I will also add, that while the concensus seems to be lower rpm makes for a good street car, having one that'll zing out to 7000rpm plus is a lot of fun... knowing it's going to stay together.

Good luck.

 

Dart SHP vs. stock SBC, but a good read nonetheless.

Debate: DART SHP Or Restored Stock Block? - EngineLabs