If you have the dough to buy a Dart block without cringing, I would go with some good flowing heads like the AFR225's and concentrate on higher RPM's with a forged crank and internals. I'm sure a few regulars will chime in here and give you some great advice.
If you build it with the Dart block and forged internals I bet you could spin it to 7000 or 7500 RPM's all day and make an easy 600 rwhp.
If you go with the boost you may want to get that Dart block because you will be able to easily put down 700 rwhp to skies the limit.

Here are some questions you will need to answer before they are asked by everyone.
Is it going to see: Street, Track, combination of both?.
Do you want to go carb or fuel injected?
What kind of transmission will you be using?
Are you on any budget or is money no object?

If you want concrete answers to your quesions, get a firm idea on what you want to build and the power you are expecting, along with the sort of drivability you can live with (if street driven).
The better idea you give these guys, the better advice you will get on what to use for your combo.

You can also do a search for previous threads on "408" combos and what is needed to build one. There's quite a bit of information.

Keep us informed on what you are building as this is getting to be a fairly popular setup and we'd love to know how your build is coming along and what results you get.

 

Checkout my website, and give me a call. I will be happy to help you set up something. We have run the stock(69/70 model)blocks to around 1,000hp. A good girdle is a must, and a balanced assembly is a must also. Like Deepstage said, I will need more info on what you want, before I can give you a good set up. Hope to hear from you sometime.

Good Luck, Greg(XSR)

 

There are too many variables to really answer your question accurately.

For a NA car the stock block is usually fine, it all comes back to goals and budget. Boosted cars really depend upon what you're looking to get out of it... I wouldn't build a 1000hp on a stock block, we've cracked them with much less than that.

There are a number of pistons that will get your compression low, JE, Ross, CP, Wiseco, Probe to name a few.

Generally aftermarket 5.0 heads are fine... but without knowing what you're looking to do we could be considering an AFR 205 or a full blown Yates head.

More info, specific goals and budget...'

Brian

 

Well I want a street car but I'd still like to be able to run single digits on the strip, if that's possible.
I want to stay with fuel injection.
Transmission? I have no clue but I want to keep it a manual transmission.
Money, doesn't matter. Build it over time but don't want to spend a frigging fortune.

I want to start with a strong bottom end so definately the Dart block with forged internals.
Again what company can I get a 408 stroker kit from? Must be forged.

 

I'd really like to talk with someone about my combo as well.

I currently have a disassembled 94 roller 351 block. I think it needs bored....was going to do .020 over. Want a 408 kit.

Not sure if the crank would need to be forged or not since I'm using a stock block. I want to put a main girdle on it. I can get a good deal on a CAT main stud girdle(its used but brand new). Are the CAT girdles good?

Considering AFR 205 heads and fuel injection and ~8.5 compression. How high could I turn this thing when built. I was thinking 6500 rpms or less cause the stock block.

I have a new FMS swap pan. I guess I need to sell it since my plans changed so much.

What should I do? Any suggestions?

 

"don't want to spend a friggin fortune" and "single digits" don't compute.

 

94cobra2615: You can email me on a set up if you'd like. I dont mind helping people out. Two things 1. 8.5:1 comp.????you did'nt say anything about a blower, so why the low comp.? 2 the Cat girdle will work fine, it will need some modifications, and go with a cast steel crank will hold up fine. My email is Badboss351@hotmail if you or anybody else wants some advice. Also I can get you a set of Vic Jr's that will better than the 205's.

Thanks, Greg(XSR)

 

Whoops. I forgot about listing the blower. I am going to run the D1 I am running now. Is 15psi or a little less realistic for this setup?

Badboss, I'll email you later on when I have some more time. I definately want to do it right.

If I get the CAT girdle w/studs can I also bolt on a windage tray without getting longer studs?(if its beneficial to even run one)

This will be a mostly street car and an occasional strip car. Should I just go ahead and sell my FMS pan and get a 7 qt pan?

Okay, I'm done hijacking this thread

 

Ok so I want to build it right and have a single digit 'streetable' car.

**** money, the build might just take me a while.

 

""I want to build up a 408stroker but have a coupe of questions first.

1. For the 351W block, should I just buy a used block and get it worked on or should I buy a Dart 351W block? How can I go about strenthing the block inself?""


The DART block is stronger and can go bigger for more cubes for more streetability. It is way more money though so that would be up to you.


""2. What company should I get the stroker kit from? I want to keep the compression low as I want to put either a blower on after.""


You will have a very mediocre engine if you design it for a blower and then don't put one on right away.


""3. What cam should I run in this beast? Lift and duration?""


Depends on your own personal ideas on streetability and what kind of power you're looking for.


""4. Heads? Can I use normal 5.0L heads (aftermarket) on this engine or do I need something special, if so where do I get them?

Thanks in advance.""


The heads will set your ultimate power potential either boosted or NA so choose wisely. The better your heads the smaller the cam you will need to hit your numbers.

 

DART block, forged internals to start.

You'll either need a bigger head than the 205's or a blower to get into single digits in a full weight, streetable car.

If you're looking to build this on a budget I think you might want to do some more homework... you're probably looking at 6500++ for a basic shortblock when it's all said and done, add a decent set of heads and the rest of the top end and you're into 10k range without any trouble. Add to that transmisison and suspension and you're getting started...

Brian

 

And in Canadian funds too. That's gonna hurt LOL!

 

And in Canadian funds too. That's gonna hurt LOL!

Tell me about it. I've spent about 10 grand in the last 6 months and my car doesn't even roll . These single digit cars aren't cheap.

 

I'm in it up to my ears as it is with mine as well and although it will easily go 9's on a small shot I'm still a whole mess of safety equipment away from actually doing it. I'm easily at $13-14,000 wrapped up in engine alone with a stock 1988 block. Yee-haw!

Best local pricing on the big bore/small main Dart 9.5" block has been just shy of $3500. I'm saving my pennies as we speak.

 

I wish...

Mine's a 74 block with a bit of cement in it. I think it will handle the 9.70's or so I'd like to run, girdle on it... and my rotating assembly is pretty light. Pistons are only 476 grams and the crank needed 300 grams removed because of that.

Car is only legal to 10.0 so whatever, hehe.

Call my buddy Brian at Best Buy Performance here in the Vancouver area. I was quoted 33 something for a Dart. Buying out of province you will save on provincial tax, but you'll obviously have to pay to ship it. Their number is 604 594 6674, ask for Brian and tell him Nate sent you .