I’m sure someone else could give you better info on the advantages and disadvantages of roller motors, but as far as my experience goes a roller is preferable in some racing applications because they work better with very aggressively ramped cam lobes. Also a roller valve train has less friction, which is always a plus. As far as power, on an equal setup I’d guess you might squeak out a bit more from a roller system. It only makes sense that less friction = less power lost, although I have never personally noticed much of a difference. If I had to guess based on what I have assembled, I’d say maybe it’s worth a few (like 5 or less) HP, although I have heard guys claim its worth much more. If I was trying to get every ounce out of a particular motor (like in class racing) I’d go roller without even blinking, but for what I do, it’s not worth paying the extra for the conversion kits, but I do recognize that it is a matter of preference and respect people who hold the opposite opinion.

To identify a roller block take the intake off and look down the center of the lifter valley. On roller blocks there are two threaded holes down the center (for the spider). If I’m not mistaken you will see 4 oil drain holes down the center of the lifter valley and the two threaded holes are on little raised bosses located between oil drain holes 1-2 and 3-4. On non roller blocks there are no threaded holes. Remember that you can run a HFT valvetrain in a roller block (just do it, no special stuff required) or a roller setup in a non roller block (you will need some aftermarket conversion parts). If I’m not mistaken the lifter bore bosses rise up a bit more on a roller block, but if you don’t have a non roller block right there to compare it to, it’s sorta hard to tell by the bosses.

BTW: E9AE just means: 1989 Ford engine as explained HERE.

My advice is: “Free is good”

 

If you want to use a hydraulic roller cam, just use the link-bar style lifters. I'm not sure what the cost is but I think it's somewhere in the $300 range. The extra $200 for the lifters (compared to the cost of stock style lifters) will be such a small drop in the bucket by the end of the build that it isn't worth worrying about whether the block is a roller or not.

 

Bronz, I think he's talking about the difference in the blocks themselves, not necessarily the difference between running a roller cam vs running a flat tappet cam.
The 94-96 351W blocks were roller blocks. The casting number will start with F4 through F6 if it is. To identify, like said take off the lower intake and look at the lifter valley. The roller blocks will have two bosses in the block with holes for the lifter spider tray to bolt down.
As far as advantages/disadvantages. Most people seek out a roller block because they plan to run a hydraulic roller cam that was for a 5.0 based motor. If the block is prepped properly, they can handle 600-700 rwhp. Disadvantages, well thats it, don't want to push much more horsepower than that through it.
Non-roller blocks C9 through F3 castings will require the use of conversion lifters to run your hydraulic roller cam, or you have to tap the block for the spider and run a custom small base circle cam. These blocks when prepped right can go closer to 800 rwhp maybe a little more without breaking. C9 and D0 are the thicker blocks which are 1969 and 1970. With proper machining, guys are taking these blocks into the 900-1000 rwhp range (they're brave LOL).

Hope that sheds some light for ya.

 

Thank you guys for all of your input and it has helped a ton. I called the Ford dealership and spoke to them about this issue and they basically stated that for what I want (a streetable 10 second car) I can use the non roller block that I have. I'd just have to run a flat tappet cam or even a solid cam.

 

Not necessarily,
As I said before, you can use the link-bar style hydraulic roller lifters in any 351W block.

 

a EARLY non roller cam block is NOT the SAME as a LATE non roller cam block...!!!!

there are "THIN" blocks that have the ability to use a roller cam and / or a flat tappet cam... either way, THE BLOCK IS WEAK... ( 1979 to whatever is the newest) .

there were a NUMBER OF YEARS that the block was "hydraulic roller cam capable" , BUT the block came with a flat tappett cam...(these are still considered a weak / thin late block)....


as mentioned in previous post. YOU WILL NEVER GO WRONG WITH A EARLY BLOCK...!!! ( one cast BEFORE 1975)....
ANY STYLE of cam can be fitted in an EARLY BLOCK...

ALL EARLY BLOCKS are STRONGER than ANY "roller-block"....!!!!!