Motor mounts and headers. Headers from Kooks, headman, or d&d.

 

i have heard that the stock motor mounts will mount up, not sure, i have solids in it right now and im hoping they will work

 

cleveland uses a different mount.


due to overall height above hoodline, you may wanna lower the engine... but due to the next thing to consider , which would be oil pan clearance to ground, you may wanna reposition everything via a motorplate instead.
some consideration to the transmission and / bellhousing clearance inside the firewall or tunnellllllL...........
many have found that a complete conversion to a tubular front K member with a motorplate that also holds the suspension strut shocks is best in overall access for starter / oil pan / HEADERS especially.....
....along with better adjustability of front suspension alignment / geometry...
you will have to SEE,

to understand all the combined issues...

just finished one of these 3 months ago......

 

cleveland uses a different mount.

Ummmm no, it doesn't. An oem style 5.0 motor mount will bolt right up to the C and allow you to drop it in with a set of swap headers and swap pan. Intake height and whether carb'd or EFI will dictate your hood clearance. A good choice as mentioned by Kato was a tubular K member, it'll provide a ton more room for the large tube headers and shave a bit of weight also.

 

If your running 2 barrell heads I have a set of kooks headers f/s in the classifieds.

 

Thanks for the information guys, its supposed to be a pretty solid motor, with right around 500 hp. also wondering if anyone on the board has heard of a "clutchflight" transmission? guy around the corner has one for sale from what i can tell it is a turbo 400 with a clutch, very strange setup but it fits a ford bolt pattern and he swears its bullet proof.

 

it uses a different mount if you want the heads to clear better and firewall/tunnel to not hit the transmission...we lower the engine from the stock position...


a "clutch-flite" went away about 30 years ago.
current advances in transmission technology have well surpassed the day of the clutchflite.

actually a "clutch flite" is not the same as a "clutch - turbo"..


because a clutch turbo" is a clutch on a TURBO 400 trans.
instead of a torque converter.

 

having done a number of these into a fox or a fairmont,
EACH and EVERY PERSON sees sifferent things that they like and dislike about each installation... there are many different ways that work.

the main thing is HOW you want the hood line to appear....

each installation differentces create their own different "other problem".. so, one may give you a better hood line, but creates difficult header install / clearances..
some other type will create oil pan problems.


oftentimes you have to have to buy the "drop mounts" and then also try the motorplate...
...or even then try a stock mount with shims to RAISE....



overall, still, a tubular K member will open up a number of clearance issues and be much easier to work on engine later.

 

Just to fill in a couple blanks for ya. My 80 LX has stock 5.0 mounts with 1/4" spacers both sides due to the PS rack as it wants to rub the Kaufmann pan without them. All under the stock hood(trimmed bracing).

 

thanks for the info kato, i have done research today on the clutchflite and indeed you are correct, it is actually the clutchflite i am getting and not the 400 version, but it has been heavily modified from the original version supposed to be streetable. but i will let you know this weekend how the motor and all fits in. thanks for all your time and knowledge.

 

I would not BUY the transmission..


nothing is better today for a track car than a 2 speed with a trans-brake.....

 

well its not really gonna be a track car, i will probably drive it on the street 90% of the time. im trying to find the best of both worlds.

 

i think my car weighs way too much for a two speed, its a stock trim convertible fox.

 

For a mostly street car you can't go wrong with a stick.

 

well decided to go with a tko instead

 

a TKO or 34xx or 36xx trans is best thing...
with a good clutch disc.


when you get to the point of rebuilding the cleveland engine... BEST to go with a "internal" balanced crank / rod / piston assembly and thus a neutral balanced dampener and flywheel can be used...
could be 200 / 400 dollars more innitially
BUT,
1000 or more dollars of value and
LOTS less hassle and time when doing subsequent rebuilds or replacement of flywheel or dampener...

 

1 BAD,
as per post # 15

I KNOW... but since this guy has not done any of this as you or I have...

he needs to do a VISUAL for himself... and LIKE the way the engine "sits"...maybe he will wanna put in a giant tall intake manifold later, so, he will need a tall hood anyways...

I DID SPEAK / REFERR TO a stock mount with shims / spacers.....

 

Yes I agree totally. I only noted what my last setup was, not a flame by any stretch of the imagination.


BTW If I could an aftermarket hood for my 80 it'd have a funnelweb on it and a decent air cleaner!

 

what are the advantages of the internally balanced rotating assymblies?

 

looks like your car runs pretty damn good All Cleveland

 

Want to buy the motor? It's for sale. Here's what it looks like. Only 3 passes since the last freshen up.

 

how much? i just purchased one thats pretty built up but i would consider having a backup

 

$6000 for everything from carb to oil pan, flywheel to balancer including headers, mounts and dist. I have $6500 in it not counting the last freshen up which was also the first one (really it was just a teardown for inspection but I ended up putting in new rings and bearings while it was apart). Only about $500 of that is machine work for boring, balancing and fixing the heads for screw-in studs. I did the rest of the work myself. This motor has roughly 50 passes since first built. Only 10 or so of these were 1/4 mile. All the rest were 1/8th mile.

 

Don't want to contradict anything anyone else has said, but the engine mounts for Clevelands are the same in terms of bolt spacing and location as a small block. I've got a Cleveland block sitting on my '86 5.0s motor mounts as we speak. It sits there fine but can't go any lower without hitting the crossmember. I may be using a different pan than some others. It's from an old "Put-a-Cleveland in your 67 to 79 pickup kit" that Ford offered years ago. My T-5 slides right up to it so everything is at the same height as stock if this chassis had come with a Cleveland. I've personally swapped Clevelands into early Mustangs many times using the same mounts as the Windsor small block we just took out. As someone else mentioned, the engine does sit higher in a Fox mustang engine compartment because, overall, it is a physically larger engine. You can't really lower it because of the stock k-member. At least not with my oilpan. The Hedman headers (and probably other brands as well) were designed for this stock height. If you fabricate a new k-member and lower the engine, the headers will hang too low also. The Hedman units were designed with a flat collector to hug as close to the floor as possible because they use huge (2" I think) primary tubes. You'd probably have to modify them or have some custom built. The bottom line is you will probably have hood to air cleaner interference at the stock mounting location and have to buy a Cervini hood anyway. That may be the lesser evil (cheaper and easier) in the long run.

 

Todd, with the tubular k-member I have everything bolted right in. Even the stock hood will shut without hitting anything. The dist is actually a lot closer than the carb is but still not enough room at the carb to not cause a restriction. I absolutely hate cowl hoods and refuse to put one on my car until I have to (when it gets a BB) so I made the cone you see on top of my carb in the pic above, cut a hole in the stock hood, put a thick foam gasket between the two and made a hood scoop for it. No more restriction problems plus a little bit of ram air.

 

All Cleveland,
I don't blame you. The cowl hoods are a BIT overdone. Looks like a clean installation. How practical is it to run an aftermarket k-member in a street application? I'm actually building a new 302 for this car but I just joined the forum and had my laptop here in the garage along with a Cleveland block in the corner with the pan still on. I threw it in to see if the pan would work in a Fox chassis. It will. I plan on doing a Cleveland in the future, but had to sell my closed chamber 4-V's (D0OE) to scrounge money for this project. I don't want to highjack this thread too much!

ORT

 

When you are ready to drop the Cleveland in, can you drop it in with the headers attached, or should the be put on after the motor is in the bay?

 

a STANDARD cleveland distributor as pictured in post # 23 is actually higher at the CAP than the carb...


but I MAKE a "short" version that can be about an inch shorter...

or put the distributor on the motorplate and run it with a BELT like it is suppose to be...!!!!

 

I have worked on mine in an 88LX long enough to make most of the mistakes. If you want pictures and additional info let me know. 770-513-2131