Benefits of SS over Mild Steel are they won't rust out so they don't need coated but they do discolor and turn brown. They are supposed to retain some additional heat inside the pipes to aid spooling but on a street car will you REALLY notice? If you're going to wrap the pipes then you don't need to coat SS but you do/should coat mild steel although some will argue you don't.

Some things to ponder:
-If you buy a SS kit and it doesn’t fit, can you modify and weld SS? If not then you may be screwed with the ON3 kit b/c it’s 304SS. The CG kit comes in mild or SS. I bought the mild steel headers from CG when building my TT setup.

-If you think you may need to modify a kit then don’t get it coated. Have it done after you verify that it all fits like it should. You don’t want to buy a kit that is coated then cut/reweld it then have it coated again.

-Can you run a front sway bar with the On3 kit? The CG kit you cannot. Maybe you won’t need one, I dunno.

-Do you need front coilovers to run either kit? The CG kit only gives you the downpipes off the turbos. You’ll need to fab it up to the mufflers. With the ON3 kit it looks like you get the exhaust back to the cat-back pipes…?

-The ON3 kit looks very complete for $2000 but it does use mild steel headers even though the rest of the pipes are SS.

-My passenger side CG header hit the frame and I had to modify/notch the frame to clear it. Plan on doing this just to be safe but some people don’t have issues. Maybe the ON3 is the same way, I dunno.

Price wise the ON3 kit looks the best value but unless you can weld SS this could be an issue if you need to modify it.

Turbos:
Before purchasing an off the self turbo give Brian Bissonette a shout. He can probably build you a custom billet turbo a lot cheaper than buying one off the shelf and it will give you some extra $$ towards a turbo kit. Great guy to deal with too.

https://www.facebook.com/Bisons-Perf...4136287790854/


ks

 

Thanks for all the great info. Turbo world is really very different from the blower world I come from. I have read many of your threads, and you really did some great work on your car. Those are all great points you bring up, and obviously I have a lot of research to do. Is Hellion still a very well setup kit that people are having success with? I'll look into your contact for the turbo as well. More than likely I think something like a 76mm will suit me perfectly for what my plans are with the car.

 

I've always built my own kits. You can literally build a hot side kit for less than $300 out of mild steel. It is time consuming and the initial cost of tools is what steer people away. Also depending on what manufacturer a 76mm may be over kill for 700rwhp. A precision 6768, borg sxe 366, or sxe 369 would be my choice. I'm at 550rwhp with my standard s366 on pump gas 260ci motor.

 

Yeah to be honest, I would be in the same boat. I have no problem doing the engine work/installing the turbo setup...but I think custom fabbing the piping may be a bit out of my league. I'll definitely look into those other turbo's you mentioned.

I have a AIS 3 gallon trunk mount meth system that I was running 50/50 with on my car, and have an NX plate kit I was planning on slapping on top of this blower setup. Since I'm converting to turbo, will any of this stuff really be necessary for say a 700rwhp turbo auto car?

 

I'm not sure what the standard is I think it depends on which kit you use. I do it post temp sensor but the tuner tunes the engine manually based on KNOCK, AF and HP. If he didn't do it manually then the cars computer would pull timing due to the increased heat that it is registering since the meth isn't hitting the sensor and power falls off drastically.

One concern I have is if the achy hits the sensor then the engine will add timing b/c of the extra cooling affect. But what if the computer adds too much timing b/c it thinks the air is cooler than it really is? If the computer is wrong then it will knock. Maybe it isn't an issue, I dunno. I like my setup where I tune by watching the knock gauge that way I know what is going on inside each cylinder.

As long as the tuner knows what to do and you have enough electronics to monitor what's going on it doesn't matter, IMO.


ks

 

Thank you again for all the info. I appreciate it. The more research I do, I am starting to lean towards a Hellion setup with an upgraded turbo from the turbonetics. Only thing I'd have to figure out is it looks like they use factory manifolds, which I got rid of mine years ago because I run long tubes. So I'm sure I could just get a nice ceramic shorty header to run instead. Do you have any knowledge on how these bumper exit exhaust setups are run? Is it literally just right from the down pipe, exiting the bumper? So no running any sort of mid pipe or cutback at all?

 

get the standard on3 kit with the 78 turbo and youll be fine

heres all the info youll ever need, give it a good read over

Pre Tune Information / EFIDynoTuning

 

It looks like the pipes tuck up to the bottom of the kmember but make sure you have ground clearance for them.

I also have #80's and an HPX but I can't wait to get rid of the MAF once I get the Megasquirt up and running. The #80's will be fine especially since you'll be adding meth.

My car came with EMUSA Waste Gates and so far so good. Not sure of the blowoff valve tho.
I'm using an Eboost 2 for boost control. Too damn complicated for me but it works good.

ks

 

The Eboost 2 looks bada** for sure. Very sleek setup.

 

why would you want to downgrade from the factory ecu to a megasquirt?

 

Let's keep this thread on track for the OP.

ks

 

99-04 THP TT kit - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum

 

Thanks for the link. Looks like a really nice deal. Haven't heard too much about THP. Good stuff?

 

I believe the owners of thp were with HP performance whose kit I run. THP kit costs $7000. It is a nice kit.
Also search boost Leash for a boost controller.

 

Good stuff. I'll do a little reading on boost leash, quick search looks like a real quality product.

 

Another silly question. I had a GI Joe 8 rib setup on this car with a Thump RRR tensioner and a 8 rib IW 10% overdrive crank pulley. I'm guessing with going turbo it would be best to go back to all stock pulleys and stock damper?

 

Yes, you can sell all of that stuff.
I wouldn't use a stock damper.

 

Would it be possible to just re-use my 8 rib pulleys and run an 8 rib accessory setup instead of selling it all and going back to 6 rib? If I already have the 8 rib pulleys for alternator, water pump, a/c, etc...any thoughts on that? And I'm sorry, I wouldn't run a stock damper...I meant a stock diameter. I would get a IW 8 rib damper but stock diameter to use with my existing 8 rib pulleys that I already have

 

Yes, you can.. Do that.

 

I have a brand new NX plate kit that I was planning on running with my blower. Would I be crazy to run a small 50 shot with a turbo setup? I also already have an AIS meth system on the car from my blower setup. Again, would I be crazy to run meth and/or nitrous with a turbo setup?

 

People do it but it seems that you're going a bit overboard for a car that "gets driven a few times a year, and is just a street warrior, cruiser" with the N2O.

I wonder how often you would actually use it when cruising around, though. If the car truly won't get driven that much then you'll have to make sure the bottle is always full at all times "just in case". I don't know what your driving habits will be in 2-3 years but my guess is that once the bottle is empty it will rarely be full b/c the turbo/meth will provide all the bang you'll want at the exact moment you want it.

y2k02 above has some vids of his car spooling and it spools fast so I don't know if you'd need the N2O for a fun street car. I'd sell it.

ks

 

Here is my setup:

'05 WAP block
Diamond .020" over 15cc dish pistons
10.0:1
Manely H-beams w/ARP 2000's
Cobra crank
MHS stage 3 PI heads
Hi-Tech Motorsports custom turbo grind cams
Edelbrock Victor Jr intake w/MHS elbow & Accufab 75mm tb
Ford 80's
E-85
Cobra tank w/Fore hat & 3 Ford GT pumps
-10 feed, -8 to the rails, -8 back to the tank
A1000 regulator
HPX-E Maf
Custom Turbo kit
PTE 7175 @ 20 psi
T-56
3.27 gears
Built rear end

785 rwhp / 725 rwtq @ 20 psi.

 

Thanks for the rundown on your setup. Do you happen to have any pics you can post up? You had the hot and cold sides custom made? Anything you maybe would have done differently?

 

Have been doing research online about options for single 2v setups out there. It seems like there are complete opposite of the spectrum. The cheaper on3 setups, or you can drop some serious coin on a Hellion/custom setup. I ran into engine issues, and may end up keeping my car and pulling engine and swapping from blower to turbo. Quick rundown of what setup would be:

97 Block, .20
Manley H beam rods, all arp hardware
Manley 18cc Platinum series pistons
cobra crank
Trickflow 44cc heads with custom grind turbo cams
Edelbrock manifold, 6061 plenum

So after doing some research online, I'm finding tons of posts from anywhere from '12-14 with people bashing the quality of on3 kits. It seems like the few I'm finding more recently online suggest quality has gotten better. Does anybody have first hand experience with on3 piping? If I went through with this, I would definitely run an upgraded turbo, probably a precision, and upgraded components such as bov, wastegate, etc. But what about just the piping from on3? The next stage of the spectrum I'm reading great things about C&G Fab, which the quality does look awesome. But for a car that gets driven a few times a year, and is just a street warrior, cruiser...would this drastic price difference be worth the cost? Also, what are the differences and benefits of upgrading the material of the material say from mild steel to stainless? Just for heat/rusting purposes?

When it comes to turbo, because this is such a small cube motor, would say something like a 76mm be a good fit for a street car but capable of being 700+rwhp through an auto?

Any input and advice on the above would be greatly appreciated. I've been a blower guy the entire time I've been in the modular game, so am a bit new to turbos. Thanks in advance

People bash them because they get in over there head on mechanical skill level. When you do a turbo there is a TON OF FABRICATION. I have done one and they are not bad at all. I would hate to try it with no car lift. I own a shop so I have a lift which makes it easier. I hate seeing a company bashed because someone misuses the product. I'd be a jerk to if people were bashing my business like they have his.

 

^You need to go back in time and read about them. They are better now, but hard to get away from that time. Also, I have never had a lift. I don't own or work for a shop. I have never even worked in the auto industry. I have had twin turbos on my car since 05 and done 90% of my own work right in the garage with the car on jack stands.