I do. I use Mobil 1 0-30 Synthetic.

 

I use the mobil one 0w-30 in my 01 bullitt.

 

I plan to switch to Mobil 1 0w-30 after i hit 5000 miles. I figure its the best of both worlds, thin oil on startup which will get into the engine quick and prevent wear, plus it has good high temp protection at the same time. For you guys that are already running it, does your car blow smoke with it being so thin and getting past the piston rings. I have heard from a few people that using thin synthetic oil will cause you car to blow some smoke out the tailpipes. Are you guys getting this. thanks

 

I plan to switch to Mobil 1 0w-30 after i hit 5000 miles. I figure its the best of both worlds, thin oil on startup which will get into the engine quick and prevent wear, plus it has good high temp protection at the same time. For you guys that are already running it, does your car blow smoke with it being so thin and getting past the piston rings. I have heard from a few people that using thin synthetic oil will cause you car to blow some smoke out the tailpipes. Are you guys getting this. thanks

Nope. Not at all. I have been using it for more than 12,000 miles without a prob.

 

i have been using it for 13000 miles with no problems(have never seen any smoke out the tailpipes either):joy:

 

0w-30,5w-30, and 10w-30 are all 30 weight oil. They just have a different viscosity when cold.

 

Went to 5w30 at 3K miles and 0w30 at 36K miles till now at 73K miles with no problems.

Bill

 

Does Mobil 1 0w-30 oil cost more than the 5w-30 weight?
I've rarely seen 0w-30 on the shelves of stores.

Any input? (I've seen 5w and 10w Mobil 1 cost the same price, so I'm guessing that the 0w is also equivalent, but I'm not sure)

 

Yep 0w-30 is the same price

 

Yep 0w-30 is the same price

Thanks for confirming that

 

I would like to give it a try, but it doesn't have the seal of approval from the SVT folks. They still want us to use 5W30--and not the synthetic stuff either. I don't want to give them another out on the warranty.

 

ITZKEV....are your sure about that??????? I don't think that is right at least not what I have been told....

 

Call SVT's 1-800 number. Then sit back and prepare to roll your eyes.

 

Can you use the regular mototcraft oil filters with the 0w-30 Mobil synthetic or do you need to switch to another filter. What do you guys run. thanks

 

I run the mobil 1 filter, with the 0w-30.

 

SVT says that because no matter what we think about the benefits of synthetic oils, what we have been programed to think about the benefits by oil company advertising, and by the known performance improvements in extreme hot and cold conditions of synthetics; there is little hard evidence that proves synthetics are better for "most users for most applications". And...SVT knows that, and they know conventional oils are getting better all the time also. MHO

PS: I use 5W20 synthetic...Why not? It's relatively cheap compared to other "mods".

 

Not quite that simple...

Multi-grade oils usually start with a base that is the lower weight 0, 5, 10.

Then viscosity improvers are added so the oil does not thin as much as it would normally at the higher temps used for the 30 weight rating.

While VI's can be made stable, they can shear down, leaving the oil closer to the original base weight.

I personally would not use a 0 weight in the climate and conditions I normally drive, as protection at high temps is nmore important to me.

 

I have been using Mobil 1 Synthetic 0w-30 for over a year now myself. Here is my reasoning:

The first year I had the car, I always used Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w-30, the weight that is factory recommended. Everytime I started the car, after it sat all night or for a long period of time, it would give that 1-2 second "rattle in the valvetrain" sound.

Like someone already mentioned above, all of them are the same 30 weight oil when heated up. They will protect the same at normal operating temperature.

So, we know 10w-30 is thicker and not recommended. The 5w-30 was giving me a quick noise at startup. Basically, I figured a thinner oil would circulate faster, especially at startup, and get rid of this startup noise.

I tried the 0w-30, since it was still a 30 weight oil and I needed something thinner at startup. Since the first startup with 0w-30, my car no longer makes a peep during startup at all.

Later, Jason

If its a fluke or an err in thinking, I don't care. It works fine for me and I am not changing.

 

Everytime I started the car, after it sat all night or for a long period of time, it would give that 1-2 second "rattle in the valvetrain" sound.

Basically, I figured a thinner oil would circulate faster, especially at startup, and get rid of this startup noise.

Since the first startup with 0w-30, my car no longer makes a peep during startup at all.

If its a fluke or an err in thinking, I don't care. It works fine for me and I am not changing.

I would like to report similar results...

I changed the stock Motorcraft 5w-20 at about 2K miles. I used the Castrol GTX 5w-20 for another 2K. I don't really care for Castrol, because of the ash content, but could not find another 5w-20 (except Ford). Then I read posts raving about the Mobil 1 5w-30, which I have used for years in my F-150 4.6L.

My car never exhibited the "rattle of death" before switching to the M1 5w-30. I suspected the M1, but just thought that maybe I missed something, with the new car.

Now, after seeing Jason's post, I will try the Mobil 0w-30 (tomorrow) and see whether the rattle goes away.

 

I have been using Mobil 1 Synthetic 0w-30 for over a year now myself. Here is my reasoning:

The first year I had the car, I always used Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w-30, the weight that is factory recommended. Everytime I started the car, after it sat all night or for a long period of time, it would give that 1-2 second "rattle in the valvetrain" sound.

Like someone already mentioned above, all of them are the same 30 weight oil when heated up. They will protect the same at normal operating temperature.

So, we know 10w-30 is thicker and not recommended. The 5w-30 was giving me a quick noise at startup. Basically, I figured a thinner oil would circulate faster, especially at startup, and get rid of this startup noise.

I tried the 0w-30, since it was still a 30 weight oil and I needed something thinner at startup. Since the first startup with 0w-30, my car no longer makes a peep during startup at all.

Later, Jason

If its a fluke or an err in thinking, I don't care. It works fine for me and I am not changing.

I doubt it's a fluke. had the same start up valve train noise before switching to 0W-30. No noise whatsoever with 0W-30.

CLB

 

I doubt it's a fluke. had the same start up valve train noise before switching to 0W-30. No noise whatsoever with 0W-30.

I just confirmed for myself that switching from the M1 5w-30 to the M1 0w-30 eliminated the valvetrain startup rattle.

That is so weird that the MCraft 5w-20 and Castrol GTX 5w-20 don't do it, because you think all the 5w-X oils are the same cold.

 

I just confirmed for myself that switching from the M1 5w-30 to the M1 0w-30 eliminated the valvetrain startup rattle.

That is so weird that the MCraft 5w-20 and Castrol GTX 5w-20 don't do it, because you think all the 5w-X oils are the same cold.

...but that "20" designation would render it a lighter overall weight oil (when compared to the "30" weight of a 0w-30). (I think!).

SO maybe that's why the 20 weight doesn't contribute towards the rattling....but when you go to a 30 weight, only the "0" will keep things quiet (because of the start-up viscosity/thickness), and the 5 or 10 (with a 30 designation, more heavier for lack of a better description) will induce the start-up rattling. Just my .02....

I think the above made sense... LOL did it?


edit : found a way to put it more succinctly; the 5w-20 will almost always flow/pour "easier" than a 5or10w-30 weight. But when you use a 0w-30, it may flow just as easily (at COLD start-up) as a 5w-20 weight oil would....that's what I meant to say. Any oil experts out there? My reasoning is probably ghettofied & wrong, somebody tell me if I'm wrong/right please....TIA

 

I've been using Mobil 1 0W-30 since 500 miles now at 32,238.5 with no problems.

 

The reason the 0-30W eliminated the valve train noise is that when it is cold, the oil is at it thinnest viscosity (0W) and flows immiediatly. In addition, the 0W does a better job leaving a thin layer of oil on the metal surface when cold than a 5W or 10W oil. This helps reduce most of your engine wear, on start-up.

If you really want to reduce engine wear, get yourself an oil filter magnet, like the BearTrap. This will trap small metal particles (less than 25 microns) in size in the oil filter. There was a study released that found particles smaller than 10 microns in size generated over 3 times more engine wear than particles 10 microns in size. Most oil filters trap particles 25 microns or greater and some trap particles as small as 10 microns. Since most of the damage is being done by particles smaller than 10 microns, only an oil filter magnet can aide in trapping them.

 

Hey- i get the "rattle of death" upon start up as well. I only noticed it since having the blower installed and I thought it had something to do with my chip tune (start up timing curve) which I am stilll messing with. What is your opinion on the 0w-30 for use on a Vortech GT? Remember- the Vortech gets its oil from the engine. I live in TX and it is extremely hot most of the year here, over 100 deg for 5 months out of the year. Right now I have castrol 10w-30 in it (my tuner put that in when I rebuilt head, it was supposed to be temporary- I had Mobil 1 Synthetic before I blew up . Hey, maybe thats why I never noticed the cold start noise).