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When are various 8.8 axle upgrades needed?

701 views 21 replies 6 participants last post by  v8440  
#1 ·
Hi all,

My '90 coupe has what will be a pretty stout 408 when I put the engine back together. It's a street/strip car with a full interior, which I don't plan on removing to save weight. I will eventually spray it, and judging by how my old '91 coupe with less motor ran, it ought to cut 60 ft times in the 1.2's. Transmission is a turbo 400 without a brake. I'm currently deciding on chassis stuff, and it occurred to me that nothing has been done to beef the axle assembly up structurally. It has a spool and good axles, but that's it. Stock stamped steel cover, no bracing welded on anywhere. I don't want to do stuff just for the hell of it or because everyone else does, but I don't want to tweak something because I should have reinforced it and didn't. So, what goodies am I likely to need for my 8.8 beyond what it already has? My old '91 cut mid-high 1.3's foot braking it with a stock steel cover and no bracing, didn't seem to hurt anything.
 
#2 · (Edited)
Weld axle tubes to the center section and brace it. It's not if they will twist but when. With 60fts that low and the torque of a stroked Windsor its gonna happen sooner than later. There are quite a few 8.8 housing brace kits on the market by top suspension companies. A rear girdle wouldn't hurt nothing either. As the old saying goes" id rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it.
 
#3 ·
Install 9" big (Torino) bearings diff ends.
Have the tubes welded to the center section.
You need a jig to do this so when it is welded the axle tubes are straight.
Have the rear end braced.
Use a spool, and adjustable pinion shim, billet yoke and go with 35 spline axles.
Billet carrier caps, ARP studs, braced rear diff cover (FMS or similar)
I went this route and have had zero issues with the rear diff running 5.3's in the 1/8.
 
#4 ·
yeah if you are truly gonna run 1.2x 60', 9.00 or faster 1/8, put 9" ends on it for sure. Bracing for sure. Use a solid pinion spacer not a crush washer. GOOD caps (billet) are also a must with studs and not the stock bolts. 35 spline-at the least.

You're gonna put a lot of money into it but you want it to be safe and reliable.

Or buy a bolt-in 9" with whatever gears you want, probably won't be much more money if any. 9" may give up a couple thousandths of ET compared to the 8.8 but that would be splitting hairs.

the very first thing 8.8's need is 9" ends OR c-clip eliminators. If you break an axle and don't have either one, the axle comes right out of the housing. Seen it happen more than once.
 
#7 ·
#8 ·
$2500 for just a centersection, still need to buy a 9" housing, and special axles, for the privilege of having a slightly smaller than 9" ring gear? Yeahno. Seriously, what's the possible purpose of that? I'll just put an actual 9" in instead of doing all that. Like reaching over your shoulder to scratch your ass.
 
#9 ·
Without a t-brake there's no need to go crazy with a rearend build, the 8.8's can handle a lot more than 1.2's...if it's braced for it. Don't do a 9", waaay more than what you want to deal with..

I think you already get the point of what should be done based on the suggestions posted above....KISS.

ks
 
#10 ·
I was actually thinking of a complete bolt in 9" from Quick Performance. They're pretty cheap for what you get, and I live close enough to them that I could easily go pick it up.
 
#14 ·
#16 ·
It seems that 31 spline stuff is pretty much the best available. Is this what the heavy hitters run, or are they going to something harder to find with more splines?