Stick with the recommended oil 5w20. Motorcraft brand is available everywhere (at least it is here).

 

thanks milwkeesbest

Absolutely stick with 5w-20 Motorcraft if you want a sub par oil. Now if you want a good oil Amsoil 10w-30 is what I and many others run. This is based on actual oil testing and analysis rather than opinion. Here's a good read.
Amsoil Signature series 10w30 - SVTPerformance
What is the BEST oil to use? - Page 2 - Shelby GT, GT-H Modifications and Tech. - Team Shelby

The track pack cars have the same engine as the regular GT's and they call for 5w-50. So what does that tell you?

Thanks mate that was some good info and reading !

 

Absolutely stick with 5w-20 Motorcraft if you want a sub par oil. Now if you want a good oil Amsoil 10w-30 is what I and many others run. This is based on actual oil testing and analysis rather than opinion. Here's a good read.
Amsoil Signature series 10w30 - SVTPerformance
What is the BEST oil to use? - Page 2 - Shelby GT, GT-H Modifications and Tech. - Team Shelby

The track pack cars have the same engine as the regular GT's and they call for 5w-50. So what does that tell you?

 

For the regular internet commando or typical driver, any semi synthetic or synthetic is plenty good. But yes race cars may see benefits to other oils.

Did you even read your own links? "Motorcraft will work in the engine, and is sufficient protection when used at lower mileage change intervals. No arguing that." - UnleashedBeast

I guess MC isn't so sub par.

Until I'm out of the warranty, I'll use what they recommend, then there's no confusion where that blame might be in case of an issue.

Are you going to keep the car forever and try to get a few million miles on the engine, or are you going to keep it a few years and then buy something else?

I say the question is a valid (and important) one if you are keeping it forever and driving a lot of miles.

If you're only keeping it for 5 or fewer years and 100,000 or fewer miles I would just use the factory recommended oil. Otherwise you're just wasting money.

^exactly

I'm all for changing to an improved oil, but I can change out the MC oil seven times over for the price of Amsoil with the same amount of protection. Using amsoil would be a waste.

 

I use ROYAL PURPLE 5W20-- no problem

 

Are you going to keep the car forever and try to get a few million miles on the engine, or are you going to keep it a few years and then buy something else?

I say the question is a valid (and important) one if you are keeping it forever and driving a lot of miles.

If you're only keeping it for 5 or fewer years and 100,000 or fewer miles I would just use the factory recommended oil. Otherwise you're just wasting money.

 

10w-30 Amsoil signature series for mine

 

use the stock motorcraft, that way IF something breaks, they cant blame the other oil. Also pay for the dealership to do the oil change, just a good safety measure.

In my first 5.0 I ran the factory motorcraft in it for the 17K miles I had it. During that time I was running boltons, E85 and spinning it to 7600rpm on a fairly regular basis. I never had a single issue. I will keep running the motorcraft on my new 2014 auto as well. I will not pay $100+- to do the oil change myself when I can pay the dealership $50 total to do the change for me.

 

I didn't even read anything after the 'subject question' because oil is such a subjective question as you'll find out after reading what I didn't read. I use, and have used, Mobil One for years in all my vehicles. You really can't go wrong with most any oil you choose. Most of them do an outstanding job.

I have never had close to any issue with my choice of oil. The only thing I can recommend is to stick with the recommend 5/20 weight although using something like a 10/30 isn't a bad choice either. Remember, the first number is the minimum temperature rating and the last number is the weight. Go by whatever climate you live in and you'll be fine.

 

I won't claim to be a chemist or engineer but I can share my experience so far with Motorcraft oil.

I have a 99 GT I purchased with 20,000 miles on it. The book called for 5w30 Motorcraft synthetic blend motor oil and that is all I used until about 2006 or 7. I purchased a 2003 F150 with a 2V 4.6 very much like the Mustang has and it called for 5w20 Motorcraft synthetic blend motor oil so that is all it has had.

The Mustang has been just a track car since I bought the truck with a trailer to tow it on. The Mustang developed some timing chain rattle at start up at around 80,000 miles. I experimented and started using the same 5w20 I used in the truck. To my surprise the timing chain rattle has become less evident and less frequent than it was with the 5w30. I am not going to say I understand why or how, just that it is what it is. The Mustang now has 107,000 miles on it and a good many of them are track and autocross miles. That is essentially all I've driven the car for since 2006 and it saw a many a mile of daily driving in the Florida heat AND racing before that.

The truck is closing in on 140,000 miles with a good many of those towing the Mustang on a trailer and it hasn't made a sound other than to start and run normally.

I just purchased a 2013 Mustang GT and the owners manual says to use the same 5W20 Motorcraft synthetic blend or full synthetic oil. Guess what I'm going to use?

 

Thanks for all the reply's so far fellow Coyote men , I see this topic (best oil ) is one of these topics which is a little " Hot " I didn't mean to start any trouble Well I spoke to a sales rep of royal purple today and he said to use 10w/30 fully/s as they are getting great results with this , but still I don't know about this :idunno: Also looked for a fully/S 5w 20 oil today and yep couldn't fine one ! I think I will stick to this grade but will go for Fully/S may just have to order it in from somewhere.

 

Question! having a thicker oil would this effect the flow of oil for the piston cooling jets I believe our coyotes have in them ?

 

The difference in viscosity between a 20 and 30 grade is minimal. Most people don't know that 5W-20 lubricants are on the high range of 20, and xW-30 grade lubricants are in the mid to low range of 30. Therefore, the average difference in viscosity at engine operating temperature is only 1.9 cSt

That's not much, so to answer your question. No

 

How much is Amsoil paying you guys? Lol
At the price of their oil, they can afford it.

 

At the price of their oil, they can afford it.

$7.xx a quart, not that much really. And it allows me to change my oil just once a year. So it costs me around $75.00 a year. Again not that much.

 

Motorcraft 5W-50 shears rapidly, and that's not an understatement. In the first 1,500 miles, it's already a very light 40 grade lubricant.

Virgin viscosity = 19.9 cSt @ 100*C
After 1,500 miles = ~13.5 cSt @ 100*C
After 5,000 miles or more = ~12.x cSt @ 100*C

Ford says this lubricant is OK for use up to 10,000 miles in the Coyote and Roadrunner, and up to 7,500 miles in the 2007-2012 GT500.

Conclusion, since it rapidly shears, it's probably not a 50 grade lubricant on race day unless you just changed the oil. So many UOAs have returned from extended session road course racing using 10W-40 true synthetics with great results.

GT500 engines have shown elevated levels of engine wear (lead ppm) using 50 grade lubricants that didn't shear as much as Motorcraft. (i.e. Red Line 5W-50) So, in this case....MC 5W-50's downfall is a positive.

Final thought, 5W-50 Motorcraft actually specs out to a 20W-50 above 32*F in virgin fresh viscosity, and I don't see anyone recommending that grade in a Ford modular.

More Info Link

 

Great post. The only thing I see counter to your information is that people racing their cars should change oil much more often than street only users. To me 1,500 miles sounds like an extremely long oil change interval for a racing engine.

 

Threads get into long arguments and ad hominem attacks when the debate is based around beliefs or emotion.

Anyone can make a case for trick things that, in the real world, make changes that are lost in real world "noise".

Buy all that fancy oil if you like, but I've been abusing engines and tearing apart old engines since the 1960's. I've yet to find any engine that has had anything even remotely close to factory recommended oil changes that has prematurely worn parts or developed rattles because of oil type.

If someone doesn't change oil for 50,000 miles or more and runs an engine for years, it looks like hell inside for wear and is all caked up. If someone changes oil even close to factory recommendations, maybe just every 5-10K, the engines all look similar for the same mileage.

Personally, I think all this stuff detailing 10-20% changes in oil parameters between brands is just a bunch of meaningless data. A life influence by such a small change would imply the engine is on the edge of a wear problem directly related to small changes in viscosity and other parameters.

When there is no actual real world proof or difference, it all becomes name calling and attacking the messengers. It is like arguing which is the correct God or religion with any true believer.

 

Unless someone here can point to oil related failures to these engines, I believe anyone can choose any oil to use as long as it's within Ford's specifications. I'm pretty much old school with oil anyway. I change my oil @ 5k intervals and always use the same brand of oil. I use Mobil one and have used this oil for years with no problems related to it. In my current Mustang, I may go with Royal Purple just to change things up. But, if I don't, I go to what I have used for years.

 

oil is cheap compared to motors... my car and truck hardly ever see 3,000 miles with out a oil change ...my car is more like 800 to 1200... i do know it will not hurt my motor by changing the oil to much...

 

Oil's not cheap when it's being done unnecessarily. Do you change your transmission fluid every 1000 miles? I mean after all transmissions aren't cheap either.

 

Just for the record this guy unleashed beat is an amsoil dealer.... He claims everybody is stupid in he is an oil authority. ... He also claims you have no facts but he does and that you've only been told by someone about oil but he's done the testing.... yet insist you go guy what he is telling you.... This guy has no automotive background or training and guess what he's the one who drank the kool aid and did just what he tells you not to do.... listened to someone else. ... Not just someone else amsoil.... One of the biggest pyramid, overhyped snake oil peddlers on the Web.... About his discount... lol of course... That's the part where he'll try to recruit you too....This guy is all over the Web pushing the same bs.... and by the way. ...Most of the tests that make amsoil look special are their own test and often not even relative to the intended use.... I'm done......

 

Just for the record this guy unleashed beat is an amsoil dealer....

^LOL busted. I kept joking about how much Amsoil was paying these guys. Guess it wasn't a joke.

 

In order for a oil to change something in an engine, the engine has to have a known problem that is statistically improved when the oil type is changed. What is the problem we all have, and what is the measured change ***in that problem***?

I don't go much for comparing single parameters. It is common to have things appear greatly different in a test, or in a series of tests, of single parameters, yet have no effect at all in the real world. It can be especially misleading when tested parameters overlap in function. It might look like five things are better, when only one thing changes.

The only thing that really matters is defining a common problem and showing the repeatable improvement in that problem. Since most modern engines with proper oil changes go 300K miles or more without friction wear, and some motors go 500K miles or more without needing rebuilt from wear, exactly what are we trying to fix?

Considering wear failures, most engines with regular oil changes already greatly outlast the life of the vehicle. So what are we gaining, and where is the improvement documented?

 

What I'm trying to gain Tom is a longer drain interval. I change my oil but once a year in the Fall before Winter storage. I wouldn't feel comfortable using Motorcraft for a year but I would with Amsoil.

 

I don't see much of a reason for any argument. This really is a matter of personal preference.

I'm sure it is good oil, but I'm more comfortable changing oil at Ford's recommended intervals than doing what anyone who did not design, build, or test the engine tells me is safe. I also don't buy platinum plugs, I don't put nitrogen in my tires, and I'll probably be this way forever.

 

Perhaps you could enlighten us all on all the oil related failures due to not using Ams oil, Mr. Wizzard. I have no doubt that using Ams oil will do all the things you have mentioned because you say it does. However, I'll take my experience with oil use, which is considerable, over any structured testing, which is unrealistic, any day on the planet. Regular maintenance and using a quality oil...any quality oil, will result in a long engine service life over and above any controlled testing. The bottom line cannot be evidenced by lab testing alone.

 

Hate to bring this thread back to life because of the level of arguing, but I have to stress a couple important points.
The only engine failure I've seen related to oil have been a) lack of, b) engine overheat combined with zero oil changes, c) too tight of clearances in oil passages.
I had 200 cars on a property and 98% of them had potential to run other then 3 rod knocks, one hole in block, one seized(I witnessed each failure). Several with 300-400k km on odometer, several which previously came through shop with less then 1litre drained on oil service, one went 20,000km on used oil/antifreeze from shop waste.
Most dealers don't even use their brand of oil in their oil change department. Try buying Mopar oil. GM proved to me they have it in their barrels.
I tried amsoil in a 2 month old 1996 Chrysler 3.3L, had to make frequent stops at amsoil dealer to top up oil as low oil light would come on regularly, that car went back to conventional within 6months and lived for 10yrs and 450k km of hard abuse.
I tried royal purple engine, front diff, and rear diff factory grade oil in a 1yr old 2004 GMC 1500, it went through 3 full sets of rear end bearings in 100k km and developed and engine tick at 60k km. The transmission and transfer case went at 66k km with factory oil.
I tried leaning the mix ratio on 2 strokes with Bel Ray and Klotz, second tank of gas on one newer build the crank bearing seized.
Swapping blends/grades of oil in a 2 and/or 4 stroke recreational vehicle can show good and bad results immediately through the clutch and/or transmission feel.
Tractors we own have 10,000+ hrs and they get nothing but conventional oil. Switching these huge bulk changes to synthetic can be very costly.
As for frequency of oil service, we live in a rural setting with pavement, gravel, mud, farm field dust, +35degC down to -35degC...oil takes a beating, the oil and AIR filters do a lot of the work.
Transmission oil is protected a lot more from environment, so comparing to engine oil is not applicable. Although heat can be a very common killer of them, coolers go a long way compared to a switch in oil brand.
All brands, blends, and grades of oil have their place. The busy family of 5 can benefit from less trips to the shop and a healthy engine from synthetic. So can the pro racer who tightens all the tolerances for 1-2min track times. The average working joe can benefit from cheap weekend sale oil at $20/5L, a $5 filter and drive their engine on the edge to have cash for the case of bud light on a Friday night. So can the weekend mud bogger who has to do 5 oil changes to flush out all the water when they had a couple chicks on the back.

 

Wow..that drew a crowd !!
I use Amsoil in my trailer race car, 10w40 Premium Protection, and in my 5.0 Coyote I use Amsoil 5w20 Signature Series.
I've used Amsoil in all my Mustangs and also my John Deere lawn tractor for 7 years now.
My '95 347 SBF has run Amsoil since 2010 w/out any problems and a ton of passes, my Coyote got it and an EA filter soon after I got it and will always have Amsoil in it !

 

I use whatever SAE oil grade the car manufacturer specifies and change it when they tell me. My street engines typically last 200-300K miles of hammering and never die from wear.

In my turbo car, which is a Boss 302 block or SHP with both way over 1000 HP, I use whatever good heavy duty SAE rated 10W40 is on sale at Wal Mart. Usually I try to get Rotella because I like the color of the bottles.

My friend who often wins Engine Masters challenges tells me to buy whatever name brand SAE oil is on sale, so that's what I do. My bearings look like new after hundreds of passes.

 

I've been using Amsoil products for years. I find them some of the best around. Prices are pretty reasonable when you consider what you are getting.