Oh and for those of you who don't know fuel pressure on these cars is 40psi cold and 65psi hot to avoid vapor locks

 

With my 2002 v6 I have the no start problem as well but the no start condition does not happen all the time when hot maybe 10 percent of time. If I wait for about 15 minutes, the car will start. Also recently I am getting code P0193. I have a new fuel pump, fuel pump drive module, fuel rail pressure sensor, fuel filter. I was going to try replacing fuel injectors but it did not help you so I'll hold off on that. I guess I should check the wiring. Sorry I could not help except to compare notes but we are not alone so hopefully one of us will find the solution

 

Okay I see, I think i do know why your getting that code. Almost any new fuel pressure sensor you can get is going to be unbranded and Chinese, I've had 2 of them and each gave me various issues. I even had the same code you had. For your code I would recommend getting an oem frps from something like a crown vic, tourous, or grand marqis at a local salvage yard. Oh and another thing, the way I get info about my car is by using a cheap AliExpress elm 327 mini Bluetooth adapter with an app called "car scanner", it's a really cheap setup but gives you super detailed information so I recommend it to anyone. If our issues are related you may be able to track the same spike in fuel pressure when priming with a scan tool or a setup like the one I mentioned, after driving your car and getting your engine up to temp (where your fuel pressure would be at 65 psi) turn it off, wait a minute and then turn the key into the on position (just the battery so the pump primes don't crank the engine) then plug in a scan tool and see if it's between 75 and 85 psi. If it is we definitely are having the same issue. Oh and just wondering what brand was the fuel pump you installed, it may be related? Mine was from autotechnica.

 

Thanks for suggestion. I'll try and gather live data. I used an inexpensive frps from Amazon at first but I bought a not so inexpensive Standard Ignition FPS7 frps from oreillys. I bought a Delphi FG0827 fuel pump from rockauto

 

Yeah no problem, oh and yeah your fuel pump is most likely good. That fuel pressure sensor you got at O'Reilly's may be good but I still think it's worth a shot getting an oem from a local scrapyard (just to get rid of the code your issue will probably persist), they're super easy to obtain since they're mounted on the top of the engine and they will sell them to you for like $14. Just make sure you get multiple because the seals may have gone bad. I went through 2 fps7 from Amazon before I gave up on buying new sensors because I couldn't find any quality ones, even on rockauto! Luckily though Ford use that same sensor on almost all of they're cars from 94-2004 so finding an oem should be pretty easy. Just don't buy one off of eBay people upcharge the hell out of them like they're some rare commodity.

 

UPDATE: I turned on my car today and for the first time literally ever my fuel gauge flipped from me having ~1/4 tank of gas to ~3/4 tank of gas. My gauge has also been slowly correcting itself as I drove today too. I think it's a possibility that my fpdm has been overvolting my pump on prime and is now misinterpreting data, I'll do another update when my replacement fpdm arrived!

 

UPDATE 2: okay so I just replaced my fpdm and although my pump still primed to 80psi.... It starts fine without issues. Problem solved? Idk, I'll do an update if it happens again but I guess my fpdm was the culprit. Not sure what was wrong with it though, I took it apart and tested the 1800 mf 35v capacitor and it tested fine (1975mf). The only thing weird I noticed was the non-conductive mesh on top of the capacitor was melting on my old fpdm, possible overheating under load? (New on the left old on the right)

 

Update 3: it happened again but now I don't think its fuel pressure related, something I did note though is that it takes a minute to actually take effect. For example, if you turn off the car hot and turn it back on within like 20 seconds, starts perfectly. However if you wait like a minute or longer than symptoms persist. Something interesting though is that if it does actually start after cranking for a while than the rpm's drop to like 400 before swinging back up and running normally. I don't even know anymore.... Maybe I should perform a leak down test with a physical gauge instead of using the fprs? Leak down still wouldn't explain though why relieving fuel pressure solved my issue? Any suggestions?

 

FINAL UPDATE: okay so because my issue isn't fuel pressure related now (at least I think) I'll be creating a different forum, bye bye!

 

I was able to get the problem where the engine is at running temp and the no start happened. I connected the scan tool and the fuel psi was at 89. I relieved pressure in fuel rail by letting gas out and the car started.
Then the next day I ran the car just for a short time to where the engine was not at running temp with the car engine not running I connected a scan tool and fuel pressue reading started at 56 and it slowly went to 89 psi. It stayed there for over 30 minutes so I tried to turn on the car while the reading was at 89 and it started right away and psi went to around 40 psi when running.
So the high fuel pressure is not the complete issue. It seems it has to be at running temp where the car it not restarted right away and even then it doesn't happen every time under these conditions.

 

if your rail pressure is reading 89psi then you have either 1 of 2 issues.

1> Your pressure relief valve / fuel pressure regulator in the tank has failed allowing more than 75 psi.

-or-

2> Your fuel rail pressure sensor is faulty and reporting 1020 ad counts (~5.1 volts) which should be setting a fault and preventing it from starting.