Open the hood with the car running. If you see that pulley moving around time for a rebuild.

Take the belt off too and spin it by hand. Some noise is okay, but it shouldnt have any play.

 

It isn't moving around or anything like that. I would have to wait until tomorrow to take the belt off. It just got a lot noisier real fast. It kinda sounds like rocks in a can, way more than it did before

 

I may send this headunit to mills racing if I can't find the bearings myself. Anyone had any luck findin the bearings and seals? I know of a local machine shop that could press the bearings in if I can find them. Any tips would be appreciated. I don't know how to tell if I would need a full rebuild or just bearings.

 

It kinda sounds like rocks in a can, way more than it did before

This cant be good Maybe your crank pulley is emitting the noise?

 

Mine had the same noise, turned out after I pulled the belt the pulley was loose and flopping around causing the noise, check it out you may only need a new pulley.
Len

 

Mine had the same noise, turned out after I pulled the belt the pulley was loose and flopping around causing the noise, check it out you may only need a new pulley.
Len

 

unhooked the vortech today and started the car. I know for sure the noise is coming from the headunit. I tried to move the pulley and it is tight with no noise. I spun the unit by hand and there is nothing unusual sounding. How do I know if it is a bearing for sure? Or the impeller? Thanks

 

How old of a unit is it? How many miles? If its older and has some miles on it i would suggest sending it to Vortech for a Minor Rebuild ($350). They replace all the bearings and seals.....its just insurance for you i suppose....mine is being done right now, i had a bad seal letting oil into the discharge tube...goodluck!

 

I had the same thing happen to my R-trim. It got loud one night after driving it. I pulled the belt and spun it by hand and it felt a little rough when I would put pressure on the pulley and spin it.

I pulled the head unit off thinking I had cought it in time to do a basic rebuild. I sent it back to Vortech and upon inspection here is their reply, "Your head unit is non rebuildable. Your bearings have failed, the gears are worn and the impeller has been rubbing on the case. Your only option is to purchase a new head unit from our sales department."

I told them to get pumped and had them send me the unit back. I recieved it in pieces minus the bearings. They were wrong about my options though. I chose a different route.

I'm sure this is "worst case scenerio", but if you send it back, be prepared for the worst.

 

I had the same thing happen to my R-trim. It got loud one night after driving it. I pulled the belt and spun it by hand and it felt a little rough when I would put pressure on the pulley and spin it.

I pulled the head unit off thinking I had cought it in time to do a basic rebuild. I sent it back to Vortech and upon inspection here is their reply, "Your head unit is non rebuildable. Your bearings have failed, the gears are worn and the impeller has been rubbing on the case. Your only option is to purchase a new head unit from our sales department."

I told them to get pumped and had them send me the unit back. I recieved it in pieces minus the bearings. They were wrong about my options though. I chose a different route.

I'm sure this is "worst case scenerio", but if you send it back, be prepared for the worst.

no, that's a common thing for them to say. they like raping folks when it comes to rebuilds and trying to give them a small credit for a new blower, etc. i rebuilt it myself and said screw vortech. i have the part #'s for doing a rebuild if anyone needs them.

 

Let's have 'em. Sources & prices.

 

I would take the belt off the blower and then disconnect the oil line going to it. Then put the oil line hose in a plastic bottle or something and fire it up for a quick sec or 2 . Just to make sure oil is reaching the blower. Hate to get a rebuilt unit then drop it back and have it happen again.

 

Let's have 'em. Sources & prices.

i don't have the prices b/c this was a few years ago and you can get them at tons of places that sell bearings, just look online for a place nearby. this is what you need

2 Nachi ball bearings nac-6003 (must be speed rated)
2 SKF Ball Bearings 6205/C3
1 Chicago rawhide seal SC/R-6248
1 Transcom seal TCM-25x40x7tc
1 Chicago Rawhide Speedi sleeve C/R-99062

that is everything needed for replacing the bearings, seals, etc. Disassembling it is real easy...just take off the 8 bolts holding the front cover on, take off the impellar nut (i think i remember it being left hand thread), take off the compressor case and impellar and mark it so you can have it clocked right for reassembly. As for the rest, it is obvious how it comes off and you will have to have the old bearings pressed off and the new ones pressed back on. The toughest part is getting out the main shaft but with a small piece of threaded rod the size of the pulley bolt and a few quick blows from a hammer and it's out...anyways, it is really simple to do and is EXTREMELY cheap compared to vortechs price to rebuild so there ya go.
that is the very brief version of how to take it apart, there is a little more fine detail to it but you'll see once you start. just be careful with everything. this is replacing all the parts that vortech calls a "minor repair" at $395. all these parts cost WELL UNDER $50 if i remember correctly...maybe closer to $25 but it's been quite some time since i've even had a vortech (went turbo after that). anyways, have fun

 

Thanks a lot! I took the belt off of the vortech and started the car, just to make sure the noise is from the supercharger and it definitely is. My V1 is a 99 model so I hope they are the same part numbers. Anyone know a place in Ohio to get this stuff? I have a machinist who will do the press work.

 

Also, I will definitely check the oil tonight to be sure it is reaching the blower.

 

Tara,

Why dont you just sell me your whole Vortech kit?? lol
Ill gladly take it off of your hand in the form its in!!

 

I hit third at the strip a few weeks ago and strangr noise.....shut down rolled to a stop. After hearing the metal ginding noise and the loping idle I feared the worst. I pulled to the pits and was about to call a tow truck and a friend said "whats this hose and should it be conected?" Well it was the bypass hose I made blew off causing all the recket and letting unmetered air in causing the lopey idle. Put it back on and drove it home!

Moral: Check your bypass valve hoses.