Looks good!

 

I always knew it could/should be done. This is awesome man. I always wanted to do a 351w with a Kenne bell like that. Good job, and keep it up! Maybe some company will offer you some big deal to get the set up mass produced!


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I always wanted to do a 351w with a Kenne bell like that. ][/color]

Im really surprised KB or Whipple have not made up a lower intake manifold that will accept a twin screw style blower much like they did with the 2v modular cars.

 

Oh and I subscribed!


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That looks awesome, very nice work.

 

Sweet project....can only imagine what it took to make the lower intake and fuel ports....if it all works and runs any future in producing the lower manifolds

 

Looks great! I am looking forward to how this thread progresses.

 

Hmmm, now that I've gotten rid of my distributor and gone to EDIS...

 

DAMN SEXY!!!

Looks amazing! Bet it'll be a runner to boot!

 

Sub'ing!!


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Any closeups of the injectors and fuel rails? What are you using for those? That's always been the main problem (other than the distributor), not enough room between the rails for the blower.

Looking forward to progress on this too.


cheers
Ed

 

Looks great

 

The "rails" in the photos look like brass barbed pipe ends(with the threads bored out) that stick up through a hold-down strap. Look closely.

I've done something similar for the purposes of testing individual injectors on a bench.

 

Hey guys just got logged back in... Firstly thanks for all your kind words, obviously that feels good! Yes things are tight in there to say the least, we're talking every thou counts BiG Time. Lower manifold deffinitely requires crusial attention but the only way to make this fit is with major mods to the blower case itself. Once you've got that fuel rails are a breeze and yes, GT Madness is correct, what's seen there are pushlock fitting bored out and strapped down. I'm still waiting for some 45 degree fittings to come in, then I can run my fuel lines.. wanted that old school alky look with individual feeds.

Gotta take the dog for a walk here but I'll be back,
GP

 

Like I mentioned my camera sucks, I have to take about 5 pictures just to get 1 that's in focus. Got another cam and it did the same F'n thing..it got spiked What this means is that I don't take the amount pics I should and clearly now that I've started this thread..is just unacceptable. So I'll have to get another cam but for now I'll just post what I do have.

So a lot of what I've done could certainly be done by other means, choices I've made have be so based on either means,style or function (usally all 3). After carefully study of where to start with the lower intake a ProComp knockoff of the RPM air gap was chosen, similar to the one you see pictured below..

There are some very important features in this intake that I could not find in any other. For starters the knockoff guys are not stingy with their castings, lots of extra thickness in key places. Also the 'air gap' portion of the bottom intake is nice and low, this give much needed room for intercooler capacity/air flow. The rear water crossover feature is also very important, it is not used but it will become the back 'wall'. The intake bolts seating area is also key as these are left flush and perfect to start building up the top face plate surface. As an added bonus this intake is about as cheep as it gets which is important because it means you're starting with 'clean' material that will weld without complaining! Used intakes can be had cheep for sure but dealing with an oil/fuel/coolant/etc soaked hunk of aluminum can induce a good sized temper tantrum.

So, after the snow storm of aluminum settled, I ended up with a base to start building up material on with the tig welder. Couple of notes, you can buy cutting and grinding disk specific for aluminum and man do they slice like lazer beams compared to your basic metal cutting wheels. Anyhow I didn't take many pics but here's some work in progress shots. Between cutting and welding, I really can't describe how much time is put in to get to a working piece other than to say... don't make any plans for awhile.

I better submit this post before I hit the wrong key and loose it..
GP

 

Like I mentioned my camera sucks, I have to take about 5 pictures just to get 1 that's in focus. Got another cam and it did the same F'n thing..it got spiked What this means is that I don't take the amount pics I should and clearly now that I've started this thread..is just unacceptable. So I'll have to get another cam but for now I'll just post what I do have.

So a lot of what I've done could certainly be done by other means, choices I've made have be so based on either means,style or function (usally all 3). After carefully study of where to start with the lower intake a ProComp knockoff of the RPM air gap was chosen, similar to the one you see pictured below..

There are some very important features in this intake that I could not find in any other. For starters the knockoff guys are not stingy with their castings, lots of extra thickness in key places. Also the 'air gap' portion of the bottom intake is nice and low, this give much needed room for intercooler capacity/air flow. The rear water crossover feature is also very important, it is not used but it will become the back 'wall'. The intake bolts seating area is also key as these are left flush and perfect to start building up the top face plate surface. As an added bonus this intake is about as cheep as it gets which is important because it means you're starting with 'clean' material that will weld without complaining! Used intakes can be had cheep for sure but dealing with an oil/fuel/coolant/etc soaked hunk of aluminum can induce a good sized temper tantrum.

So, after the snow storm of aluminum settled, I ended up with a base to start building up material on with the tig welder. Couple of notes, you can buy cutting and grinding disk specific for aluminum and man do they slice like lazer beams compared to your basic metal cutting wheels. Anyhow I didn't take many pics but here's some work in progress shots. Between cutting and welding, I really can't describe how much time is put in to get to a working piece other than to say... don't make any plans for awhile.

I better submit this post before I hit the wrong key and loose it..
GP

Pretty smart using cuttoff wheel, I would have put it on my cnc vertical and with 4.0 facemilled that thing to death,lol

 

Now that is pretty damn clever...

 

Thanks Alex, glad to have your input.. deffinitely a fan of your work/accomplishments.

 

On a Side Note: If any of you out there happen to be running the ProComp intake as it is intended (carb) you might be interested in seeing her guts. Below is the main hulk I chopped out, quit a dramatic imballance between port size and shapes. I have no idea if the 'real' air gap is similar but surely room for improvenets to be had here.

 

Couple more in progress shots of the intake.. Here you can now see how the outter perimeter forms the gasket surface for the top plate. Top plate itself is a cast piece, cast over a forged base plate is important for me in that it will not move,shift or deflect when it is machined. (being that most all of my work for this first proto-type is being done by hand.) The plate comes 'true' with a near perfect mirror finish on both sides under the protective white film you're seeing. This protective film is a nice bonus and works like an erasable marker board for drawing out the floor plan. Props to Jemes Hell at Cobra Engineering for turning me on to this material.

In the second shot you can see how the rear water cross-over help form the rear wall and then the excess remains of the cross-over are removed and the water ports filled in. The cancer bump hanging off the back wall is for a stud mounting or dowel boss that may or may not be used..if not we'll cutter out. You can also see the injectors and modified brass fittings, some may not be familiar with these injectors.. They are Magneti Marelli Weber units more commonly found in the motorcycle world. I pulled them from my Blown sportbike stuff.. specs are 46.8lb@43.5psi up to 60lb@72psi. Their short stature keeps things tidy and I like their metalic body looks, one could use any typical injector but short and slim makes things easiest.

 

Nice work, looks amazing! Not the biggest fan of the blue bay though! Flat black would have set it off right! Overall killer project though!

 

If you look at the right side (facing you) of the blower in the first pic, you will see the factory mounting legs of the stock blower case. Not a snowballs chance in hell of dropping on a stock case M122 onto a sbf in a 'low-rider' fashion. Not only do the legs hang over the valve covers but in an direct port efi application many of the legs interfere with injector placement.

sorry for the dark pic..

Now a little chop-chop and presto, just enough room to shine!

 

This is awesome

 

While I took absolutely no pics of the case mod work at the time, I'll grab some pics next time she's on the bench. Untill then, below is a stock M122 case, mine now mounts from below such as these two examples in the second pic (similar to many other cases like Magnuson,Whipple,Etc) Pretty basic really just move in the holes and tap, there is lots of meat. Lol.. I was a total basket case of nerves..do not slip-do not drill too far-is this shxt straight-do not pile up that tap fxcker! But it turned out even better than expected and this was a good feeling...yes.

 

Subscribed! What an awesome project!


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Dude - you absolutely win the prize for "coolest looking PD blower install on a SBF." Definitely cooler looking than mine. And I like the compactness. The injectors are pretty trick. In fact, the whole thing has a really cool vintage/modern look to it. I have one question - what's up with the valve covers? They look cool, but centerbolt? Explain, please.

 

Innovative, nice!