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take off heads to get lifters out??????

1.6K views 31 replies 12 participants last post by  black89  
#1 ·
All the lifters but the very front and very rear on the drivers side came out fine. These two slide in and out easy but they don't slide up far enough to wiggle them out. They hit the bottem of the head before I can twist them to get them out. I tried in every direction to no avail, unless I'm missing something very simple. There no way in he$$ you have to take the head off to get them out right?????
 
#3 ·
Ok, just took hammer to it and shatter roller off lifter. Now have pieces of lifter, including roller down by the cam but I got the Fuc$*&% lifter out. Thanks for the input............. I still have one lifter that won't wiggle out so I'm going to go get my hammer.
 
#4 ·
then,
why dont you just go get a bigger hammer.....




dont worry about cracking the block....
 
#8 ·
When I had my motor rebuilt they must have milled the head a little because the lifters were really close to clearing. I guess it's time to take the head off to get the rear lifter out. Should I just take them both off to inspect the pistons and stuff? Also if I just pull the cam out would that be enough to clean the fragments of the old lifter out? It was the one that was damaged and needed replacement in the first place so it broke really easy. the roller just seperated and I'm going to use a magnet to get most of the pieces, I can still see everything in the lifter hole.
Thanks
 
#9 ·
Wierd, I am installing a cam, and while degreeing the cam I took my lifters out and put them back in a few times with the head on.

Probably doesn't help you much...I did have to lean it to the rear of the car to get it out, tight fit but came out very easily.
 
#10 ·
...blackie...
You may THINK that you can see everything.......



















but it is the one little piece that you dont see,...

THAT REALLY F --CKS up EVERYTHING....


not everything falls down to the bottom.....
there are no shortcuts......




you should have just used a hot cutting torch.....
 
#11 ·
If pieces fell into the lifter bore, they could have made it all the way down past the cam to the crank/rods/oil pan.

I'd pull both heads if it were me. If you couldn't get the old ones out, you probably will have difficulty getting the new ones in too. Don't forget that if your head bolts are torque-to-yield, they'll need to be replaced too.
 
#12 ·
I took out my lifters and changed them with my heads still on 2 weeks ago...

I have 6037's that arn't milled.....I just lifted them straight up...then tilted them out....worked fine 0 probs...
 
#13 ·
black89 said:
Ok, just took hammer to it and shatter roller off lifter. Now have pieces of lifter, including roller down by the cam but I got the Fuc$*&% lifter out. Thanks for the input............. I still have one lifter that won't wiggle out so I'm going to go get my hammer.

y bother with all this? just rent a jackhammer and go to town!

wow, what boggles me is after already breaking off pieces of the one lifter into the engine, you're going to do it again? now instead of just having to pull off the heads, you'll have to pull the whole damn thing apart.
 
#15 ·
OK, got the heads off and new lifters are soaking in oil ready to be put in tomorrow. Low end looks great even with all the supercharged miles on it. The #5 Exaust lifter was the one that broke, it was already really damaged so that's why I cracked the roller off to get it out (Michael Yount). Luckily I got a magnet and pulled the roller part out and fit it back on the lifter and there was no missing fragments. I just need to put it back together now. I thought since the other 14 came out with ease that maybe it was damaged in some way that it wouldn't come out but the new one would go in. I have never taken them out of a motor before so I guess this was a good learning experience. Thaks for the input Kato, if I would have seen your post about taking the heads off I would have just done that in the first place. I didn't see it before I started again. I'm lucky I seperated the roller from the lifter in a clean crack so there is no pieces to search for. Thanks for the help guy's.
 
#16 ·
I did get new bolts, ARP, but thanks for the heads up (michael). I'm not getting all of your post, it's like I write then post's appear above what I wrote, weird??? Anyway I wrote about wacking the second one out just to get a response, I didn't think anybody was replying or paying attention. I pulled the heads to get that one out. I refreshed my browser a bunch but several hours after I wrote a reply post appear above mine. The jack hammer and grinder cracked me up though!!! Ha-ha-ha LOL
Thanks
 
#18 ·
I hope you really don't belive that just cause your nakid eye saw that there were no missing fragments that you think there aren;t any, that's an expensive gamble if yuo ask me. If it were my motor I would have torn it down already and rebuilt it to make sure. But hey let us know how it goes after a few weeks, maybee you got lucky. But then again... Ohh yeah and I got a jack hammer you can borrow hahahaha
 
#20 ·
I hope I get lucky, I know there might be little fragments but I really don't have a choice. I have no time, barely any tools, and no money to tare the low-end apart, going to school full time and working full time. I need it to drive to my job and school on the 28th so I'm cutting my x-mas vacation short to fix it (hopefully). Its my only car. I just got lucky that I decided to replace the lifters on the first day of my school vacation when I took work off too, well called in sick two day's because I couldn't get there! Ha-ha-ha
 
#21 ·
I can probably guess why no one answered/replied for a while.....




IT WAS SO STUPID FOR YOU TO USE THE HAMMER ,........


EVERYONE thought that you were KIDDING........


or just REALLY STUPID.....




......did you ever hear about the guy that couldn't get one of the head bolts off,..........
so, he just used a cutting torch..???

he missed,

some how, the torch also melted a hole in the aluminum heads,
....


and when the water spew out,

he got so pissed off that the cutting torch just happened to touch the rubber fuel line on the fender mounted fuel pump....


needless to say,.....
.....the water that leaked out of the head, was not enough to put out the fire,

and the car burned to the ground....
 
#22 · (Edited)
jesus, the stories on this board over the years could be entered into the darwin awards....

you can pull 6-9 lifters from a stock shortblock, with stock heads, quite easily...other than that, you need to pull the heads to remove the remainder

most aftermarket heads have a built in recess to aid in removing the lifters with the heads installed, ingenious don't ya think ;)
 
#23 ·
MAT88GT said:

most aftermarket heads have a built in recess to aid in removing the lifters with the heads installed, ingenious don't ya think ;)
Yup....changed all my lifters with my Edelbrocks :)
 
#24 ·
Any Ford 302/351 head with a casting number starting with E5, E6, E7, F1, F3 OR F7 has the cutouts to remove the lifters. They just need to be 'finessed' out. ( Main Entry: finesse 1 to play (a card) in a finesse 2 : to bring about or manage by adroit maneuvering. © 2001 by Merriam-Webster, Incorporated :lol: )
The E5 head was a modded D8OE head with the cutouts to remove the roller lifters. Ports, chamber shape and chamber volume ( in CCs ) was the same. No way would Ford spring for head gaskets/labor for a warranty job to replace lifters. Ford updated the castings in 1985 and may have let a few D8 heads installed very early in the '85 model year slip out.
 
#26 ·
With the E7s, the lifters all should come out. I had .030 milled Power Head's CNC'd E7s and was able to get all the lifters out with the heads bolted on.

The D0OEs, all except the outer 4 corner lifters should come out. I had unported D0OEs complete with stock rail rockers on an Ecam way back in '95 in a 302.

I stand by my remarks, any 302 with a factory roller cam with a head casting of E5 or newer, that all the roller lifters will come out.

If you cant figure out how to get them out, just tie them up out of the way with wire when swapping cams