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Street Cam for my 363 6speed Trickflow R

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12K views 27 replies 15 participants last post by  N.C. Elmo  
#1 ·
Look guys this is just for fun. If a ton of people all agree on a cam I may try it.

Many of you know my build and the intake (Cobra intake) Depending on the timing it has made between 377-398hp.

My next plan it to run a TrickFlow R and a Box to see just how much it will pickup. (Right now the cobra only makes max power at 5,300rpms if the TFR make power all the way to 7200 I want need one but I don't see that happening and many on this site have said the cam is to small.

But after that I'm wanting a Cam I want the biggest street cam I can put in my build. It needs to be valvetrain friendly and max power 6300-6800 goal 7200 max. Has to be able to idle great. Have great street manner with a 6 speed. It has this now with the cam in it. Max HP isn't the goal the goal will be max hp with all the above (Street ability).

Engine has room for a cam up to .700 but say with Safety Factor .650 max.

My thoughts Keep the Lift .575-.600 and just add duration to help keep it easy on the valvetrain. Has 1.6 rockers
Like Duration @.050 240-248, Lift .590-.610 Lobe 112-114 for nitrous and vacuum (This is just from my reading) (Also this would be for the Trickflow R) I know I have to pick one of the 3 intakes lol

I know most of you will say ED lets just say its not going to happen I do have a cam of his I got out of a motor I bought that was a 347 and its bigger than mine and the guy said it had great street manner. This was a 347 and I'm not sure that was the goal on that cam and I have a 363. With that said that cam does prove I have room to grow.

My build now
Megasquirt
I use IAC so car idles great. Also use AC idle up
Dart SHP 363 Internal Balanced, Trickflow 11R 205 heads 66cc (Fel Pro MLS 1134 Head Gaskets). 10.1 compression
RPM 4340 crank, Scat 4340 H Beam Rods, 2618 Forged Wiseco Pistons, Wiseco's GFX ring.
Custom cam for NA was told (Idle to 6,500rpms) Int .574 Exh .571 Dur @.050 Int 224 Exh 234 Lobe 112 (So far cam hasn't cam close to 6500rpms may happen with the TFR)
8 way adjustable SA Gear billet timing chain with a torrigton bearing
Morel HYD roller link bar lifters. (5323)
3/8 pushrods 4130 Chromemoly
Jesel shaft rockers (They only make one for the 11r heads) (KPS-470191)
Anderson 4in cold air
90mm TB
1 3/4 RCI LT header 3in out the back.
Intake will be cobra (Long term) and a Trickflow R and box for dyno.

First post has 95% of my car parts on it if you want more info and Dyno numbers are in the tread also.
 
#2 ·
If no to Ed, I would consult Buddy Rawls if he is still around. I have never got a cam from Buddy, but he always been very helpful through pm’s.

if I had your combo, I would try the 2 R’s before changing your cam and then going from there.
 
#6 ·
It is all relative. What you are willing to accept as a normal service life for valve springs and what I would accept could be two different things.
Also the ramp rate of the lobe has a lot to do with valve train stability and longevity. There are other things that can be done to make valve springs last longer, but they are not cheap, but then again, good valve springs are not cheap either.
 
#7 ·
I think you are in the right range 240/248 112+4 or so. The problem is that there is little to nothing in a shelf cam in that range.

You can download the Comp lobe catalog and find a lobe for "F" journal size that tickles your fancy. If you look at the lobe catalog you can note that a lot of the Chevy "LS" lobes work on a Ford cam. Once you pick your lobes you can order your own custom cam from Comp.
 
#8 ·
Just to give you an apple to orange comparision on my 353-3.4/4.07:

My build is twin turbo. Wanted great street manners and 1300+hp if I ever turned the boost up.

9:1, TEA tw 205s with larger nitrous ex port, super Victor intake, 238/238 .565/.565 115 sep mild solid roller(turbo cam), 1 5/8 dyno headers, 650 carb (only carb dyno shop had on hand. Made 487hp at 6700. With bigger headers and carb would have made 500+hp. I wanted cam lobes that won't beat up the valve train. Very flat hp curve. With boost should make peak power around 7200ish.

IMO you need more duration if you want to turn it higher. The intake is hurting you also.
 
#9 ·
My 363 comp custom cam with 9.2:1 afr 195 and box r plus a blower is 243/249 112 @ .600 lift. Supposedly for a blower even though it looks more like an na cam to me. Was still gaining power at 6500 na. On engine dyno.

I ordered a custom to run na for the above engine and it was 236/248 111 and little over .600 for 6500 shifts.

im putting the first cam combo listed together right Now With a turbo, may not be ideal, but will make enough power for me.
 
#12 ·


 
#13 ·
I'm running a baby cam pulling to 7200, 227/239 .590/590 114.5. Car idles great at 800 and good manors.
But I'm supercharged...

The reason I'm so happy with mine is I paid someone who knew way more than I did, nor what I could learn on forums.
You can blow $300 on an off the shelf one that could end up a useless paperweight, or $300-400 on a custom that does exactly what you want. Your choice. Changing cams over and over is a pain in the ass. I've learned to do it right the first time now, not later.

Talk to Ed Curtis.
 
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#15 · (Edited)
lol, Not going to go into why I'm not recommending this guy or that guy so don't ask. But I'm not 100% sure if he does N/A cam profiles but I would talk to Freezy74 either way. Just do a search on the Corral and contact him. You will find that Brian is professional, knowledgeable, and very easy to have a discussion with....enough said.

I hope this helps
Michael Plummer
 
#20 ·
Same here, he just made a cam for my car. Everyone seems to go to Ed, but I for one would not after there was no contact made for weeks after trying. I wanted someone I could call up and ask questions if I had concerns and actually discuss my desires, instead of just filling it out on an online form. Brian gave me his personal cell number and we texted and called several times and discussed in depth the things I wanted. I dont have any numbers on my car yet as the new motor (363). Just went in my car and now we have 8” of snow on the ground so Im not even starting it yet.
 
#21 · (Edited)
This build is all over the place for someone that's not chasing HP but wanting to rev to 7,000rpm and have great street manners even though you still didn't get a CLEAN non detuned current dyno. You are saying your current parts are maxed out but you ran the last dyno with only 28 degrees timing🤔 when optimum was 34 degrees. Timing affects power and as the rpms increase the engine will need more timing advance to keep making power. You only ran 28 degrees which not only affects overall power output but also peak power rpm. How can you gauge what you accurately have, gained or loss if everytime you go to the dyno you change or detune the combo? Lol. You can add, the R, shorten the Cobra more or run a Victor 5.0 but if you don't run 28 degrees timing same as the last dyno then you won't know if you truly gained anything.
Should have ran everything with the same tune that way you can ACCURATELY gauge your progress. You REALY don't know what you currently have because your dyno tunes and setups are not consistent. Now you want a street cam which you already have.
 
#24 ·
Because that information doesn't matter. No one else has that intake. But many have the same Trickflow R. No matter how much power the car makes it will always end up with the Cobra. All this is just talk at this point. I still have one more dyno with the cobra intake I want to do a little more tuning on the nitrous. So I will take the timing up for the test its no big deal.
 
#25 ·
It matters a lot. Especially on this combo. On the first two dynos on the Mustang dyno he did the Edelbrock, stage 2 Cobra and the stage 3 Cobra. Stage 3 made 396whp with 3r degrees not 28. Other people with the same heads and good flowing Intakes like the stage 3 Cobra also made best power with 32-34 degrees timing.
4-6 degrees timing is a lot.
His last dyno on a dynojet with better headers made 377whp with the 28 degrees timing which is less and less power each trip which tells me it's the TUNE or mechanical issue.
Also look at the hp rpm peak. 5300 rpm is due to lack of timing and cam.