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Steel Fender Flares

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29K views 63 replies 20 participants last post by  mustangfanduo  
#1 ·
While looking for 91-93 fenders for my 86, I ran across these. What do you guys think of these as a option to say the Maier or Tiger flares?
 
#2 ·
Interesting, but not a whole lot of detail provided. I just sent them a note on Ebay - "How much fender clearance can one gain with these? What setup is on the car in the photos? (Stock Fox length axles or SN95 length? Stock Fox front suspension or longer LCAs? Wheel dimensions? Tire sizes?)"
 
#3 ·
I think it is a great idea.

I also think they are charging way to much for some sheet metal that has a slight bend in it. The shipping is also way out of line. I would pay $200 shipped. Probably even $225 shipped. At $350 I'll use the fiberglass Z flares. Especially since with the Z flares I can bolt, rivet or tape them on. Much simpler than welding and having to repaint. I do like the idea over the Tiger Racing flares though.
 
#4 ·
I asked the vendor a couple of questions:

What are the measurements at the widest point on each set (F/R)?
Are the flares pre-bent?

Answer:
hi,
Sizes FRONT
Width middle -4.5"

REAR
Middle width - 4.5"

Non pre-Bent. The Flares Sit right on top of the Factory Fender line.Easy Install.

this what the manufactor message us. we are the dealer for ssworxs
thanks

I discussed these with my builder. Given how we intend to bulge/flare the wells on the 86 with metal rather than composite, the builder thought these are a great option. Went ahead and ordered a set.
 
#5 ·
im in a group on facebook called FMC drift. Two of the guys on there are who made these. They received some criticism about the price and for what you actually get. i pretty much agree. i would rather buy datsun.

the reason they made these is for drifting so when you blow a rear tire it doesnt take out the fiberglass z flare.
 
#6 ·
The price is a bit steep - especially shipping. But compare to the Tiger, Maier, Z-car or other options. With those, in the end you have a composite flare/fender. I wanted steel because the car will be a driver. My builder said that these will provide an excellent foundation as well as the "look" we are after. We have no illusions that these will fit without work. But the other options require fitting too.
 
#7 ·
Here's the response I got:
hi we are a Authorized dealer for SSworxs race products . We emailed the maker and said he cars is stock with front extended LCAs

Since it is metal the contour can change and follow the wheel/tire combo. This is the #1 reason customers are purchasing as it can fit to your needs per say vs Fiberglass that is pre-set .
I'm not in the market at all, but I'm still curious to see how they work out. Keep us posted!
 
#9 ·
As simple as these are, why not just make your own? I could see if they had a rolled lip under them like factory stuff does, but a flat piece of steel?

Jess
 
#12 ·
Yes, I understand the stretching, pushing, rolling, etc. of the stock fender. I've done some of that myself (mostly using the Griggs approach with some C-C.com edits). Also going bigger than 18x10".

I looked at many of the other options including the Z-flares, Tiger and Maier. Also found many pics of Fox chassis Mustangs with variations of flared and "pushed" fenders. "Free" is not the issue. This is a memorial car and it will be done right by artists - I'm not one of those guys.

I can assure you that what you see in the link and on the floor above will be mere shadows of the finished product. I'll post pics as the build moves forward. Maybe it will still look like "crap" but at least reserve judgment until the build is finished. No need to predict the outcome so early in the game.
 
#14 ·
They ship flat and are labeled F/R, inside/outside. I test fit one to the car. They follow the factory flare/curvature, and can be moved forward/backward and up/down depending on your needs.

What I like about them aside from being metal, is that they mimic the factory flare. Our plan is to bulge/radius the fender and then attach/blend these into the body; going for subtle.
 
#15 ·
Subscribing..

qtracer- how do like the DC controller? I have the same fan set up and have been strongly considering getting it. Also, are those oem fans or aftermarket? I got aftermarket ones and the figment isn't great and there no gasket around it.

Sorry to hijack your thread!

Thanks!
 
#16 ·
Subscribing..

qtracer- how do like the DC controller? I have the same fan set up and have been strongly considering getting it. Also, are those oem fans or aftermarket? I got aftermarket ones and the figment isn't great and there no gasket around it.

Sorry to hijack your thread!
No problem. The DCC works as advertised. I have no other experience to compare with except the stock set-ups on our later model cars with e-fans. Simple set-up/wiring.

My dual Contour is an OEM that I purchased from DCC when Brian was still selling fan/controller kits. He modded the fan shroud and added the edging for a very tight tank to tank fit on a direct fit Griffin 2-core. It came with an adjustable "potentiometer" to move on/off temps up/down.
 
#19 ·
We test fitted them about two weeks ago but had to wait for my wheel/tire package to arrive. Tire Rack didn't deliver the Rival S until end of last week; had them mounted on the CCWs yesterday and delivered the set to the builder today. Meeting with the fabricator tomorrow; we shall see. I'll take pics.

Wheels are 18x11 with a +19 off-set; 315/30s. Big wheel/tire package; each one weighs 54# according to my bathroom scale. In comparison, my 17x9 95Rs with 255/45 A6s weigh 45# each by the same scale.
 
#23 ·
Those look great! I was thinking about doing flares. I really like the Tiger Flares from Chicane23. but I would really prefer all steel over fiberglass. I was thinking of maybe going with these but transplanting the lip from the stock fenders onto the steel flare so to try to give a stock appearance from the profile.
 
#25 ·
Cool, can't wait to see the pics of that.
Years ago I use to restore vintage Trans Am and NASCAR race cars. One of the T/A cars had big bubble flares in it's original racing form from 1970. To replicate that. A stock fender was used and the lip was sliced around at the edge and left connected at the two points at the bottom of the wheel well. Then pulled out. Then the now opened up area was filled with a crescent moon shaped piece of metal like what you got that was English wheeled to get the bubble. 1970 Trans Am rule stated that you could have unlimited widening of the fenders for tire clearance but must retain the stock factory appearance wheel well shape from the profile of the car. Only problem with what was done on the car we had, was when done. The outer lip was angled inward to the tire from pulling it out farther. Not how the car was in 1970. After the restoration, the owner of the car got the original bucks for the flares from the original team that built the car. After a few years of running it in the vintage racing. It was redone correctly using those bucks. For what was had back when it was first restored. The look was right.
The flares on that car were just like the fiberglass flares that Chicane23 make and that is the look I want to create on my Fox. But it looks like you are getting that same look with metal. I would much rather go with metal on my car. So I am going to be keep a close watch on this project. Thanks for post pics.
 
#29 ·
What did you do for the inside of the fenders? Is there a lip to strengthen the fender? Looks good BTW.

Jess