89' Foxbody,building a 408 for the street. Might see the strip a few times a year just for fun. 6500rpm max,car May see 3k miles a year,but unlikely so not worried about valve adjustments. Looking to go with Promaxx 210s and they are on sale right now so need to make a decision.
elkaddict89
Like above post says, at 6500rpm a solid roller is really not needed but they sure do hit harder while idling. You wanna a mild solid roller for the street that want beat up your valve springs? Run solid roller lifters on a hydraulic roller cam profile along with matching hydraulic roller springs. The spring pressure is WAY less on the hydraulic springs so the solid roller lifters aren't getting beat to death with loads of spring pressure. I know of a few guys local to me that run 500+ cube big blocks on the street with this setup for over 10yrs now without any problems. They set the lash at 1- 2 thousands and spin them to 7-7500 all the time. It's definitely not the norm to do but if I didn't know of the cars I mentioned above in person, I wouldn't have believed it would have worked myself.
I am trying this out myself now, I figure if it don't like it for what ever reason I can swap back to hydraulic roller lifters or move up to a solid roller cam and spring package next. I did bump up spring pressure a little and swapped in titanium retainers.
run some good Hyd rollers and the correct springs for the application. You can get a few more RPM out of them with a few tricks like reducing valve train mass, etc
FTI can help you out with all that
Brother of mine made an easy 4 figure HP out of a 552" BBF hydraulic roller, with some RPM. Ed and some other folks got him where he wanted it, reliable and powerful. Never did anything to it to be honest, once the fuel and spark were "on" it was really just a matter of doing, nothing. I'm so used to having to run valves and change springs about every 10 runs (sometimes less depending on what car I was running at the time) that it feels weird to me NOT to have to do anything between rounds.
FTI can help you out with all that
Brother of mine made an easy 4 figure HP out of a 552" BBF hydraulic roller, with some RPM. Ed and some other folks got him where he wanted it, reliable and powerful. Never did anything to it to be honest, once the fuel and spark were "on" it was really just a matter of doing, nothing. I'm so used to having to run valves and change springs about every 10 runs (sometimes less depending on what car I was running at the time) that it feels weird to me NOT to have to do anything between rounds.
I have a hyd roller in a 427 that Ed helped me spin to 7500 You'll be fine with your hyd street cam
I have been running solids on the street for close to 20 years. Never had an issue. I run crower with hipo oiling. I have ran bullet spec hydro lobes speced for solid lifter as well as frame and cam motion solid lobes.
All lobes are not created equal. I would talk to cam company prior.
Here is a good read if anyone is interested https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads/run-solid-rollers-and-lash-them-to-003.2541421/#replies
All lobes are not created equal. I would talk to cam company prior.
Here is a good read if anyone is interested https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads/run-solid-rollers-and-lash-them-to-003.2541421/#replies
here is what my combo sounds like, cold start and then full warm comparison after a drive around town
Morel solid rollers on trickflow cam cold lash set to 0
Morel solid rollers on trickflow cam cold lash set to 0
My previous engine was a tight lash solid roller. They were hydraulic roller lobes. Did well and ran good for its time. I did have to modify the lifter band in the comp 838 lifters to get enough oil flow to all the lifters. They were the second version of those lifters that did have pressurized oiling to the needle bearings.
Luckily, I pulled the cylinder heads to get some port work done and caught one lifter in the very early stages of failure. After I modified the lifter band, which was in the wrong location for an 8.2 deck block, it ran perfect. Used to drive it on the street and highway all the time. When I disassembled it to build the new engine, the lifters appeared to be in perfect condition and spun beautifully.
Luckily, I pulled the cylinder heads to get some port work done and caught one lifter in the very early stages of failure. After I modified the lifter band, which was in the wrong location for an 8.2 deck block, it ran perfect. Used to drive it on the street and highway all the time. When I disassembled it to build the new engine, the lifters appeared to be in perfect condition and spun beautifully.
I don’t see a solid roller being necessary for the 408 described in this topic with a 6500 RPM shift point. A solid roller would likely be up on power through most of the RPM range, but not by a lot.
I ran a tight lash solid roller on the previous engine because I planed to drive it a lot and shift it over 7000 RPM at the dragstrip. The current engine also has a solid roller cam with a tighter lash. I do not believe they are a hydraulic roller lobe. I tend to think they are something more along the lines of endurance solid roller lobes.
This time around, I used BAM bushed solid roller lifters that have DLC coated pins. Not necessary, but felt they might be more durable based on reviews from people who have used them. You can purchase those lifters through Mark O’Neal like I did.
I ran a tight lash solid roller on the previous engine because I planed to drive it a lot and shift it over 7000 RPM at the dragstrip. The current engine also has a solid roller cam with a tighter lash. I do not believe they are a hydraulic roller lobe. I tend to think they are something more along the lines of endurance solid roller lobes.
This time around, I used BAM bushed solid roller lifters that have DLC coated pins. Not necessary, but felt they might be more durable based on reviews from people who have used them. You can purchase those lifters through Mark O’Neal like I did.
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