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Smog Equipment Removal--Need Advice!!!

16K views 28 replies 18 participants last post by  93fxbdygt  
#1 ·
I have a 92 Mustang GT 5.0 that is mostly stock except for a bigger throttle body and CAI. The smog pump is going out and instead of replacing it I would like to just remove the entire smog system. Can someone out there tell me how to do this? I need someone to tell me what equipment to remove and what additional things I need to do to accomplish this besides just removing parts, if any. I need someone to lay out everything from A to Z on what to do?

1) Will I need to reprogram the computer or buy some sort of component to install after I remove the smog components?
2) I'm sure I'll need a shorter serpentine belt once I remove the smog pump. Do I need some sort of delete kit with a idler pulley or can I just buy a shorter belt?
3) Will I need to modify any wiring? I read about how to do this years ago, but I don't remember what the article said to do.

If my memory serves me correctly, all I need to do is remove the smog components without any additional modification...Is this correct?

4) If all I need to do is remove the smog components, can someone tell me what component to remove and where exactly they're located? I know where the smog pump is and the hoses that are connected to is are obviously part of the smog system. But what other components do I need to remove?

Thanks in advance for your help....
 
#2 ·
You can remove everything w/o messing with the tune. You'll need to plug the holes in the back of the heads. It's not too hard if you get the proper plugs and the threads are not corroded.

Here is a pic of my engine w/smog and AC removed.

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I wasn't able to get a tap into the smog holes so I instead used a plate, high temp silicon, and a bolt. In this pic the drivers side is still in and the pass side has been removed.

Image
 
#3 ·
So what is currently bolted to the back of the head that I need to remove and plug the holes? Is it a cross-over tube or something like that?

So you obviously had to buy a shorter serpentine belt, correct? What length of belt did you have to buy?

So there are components bolted to the back of the manifold (by the throttle body), such as the EGR valve and who knows what else. What components do I need to remove?

Will removing the smog system components give me more horsepower (however, I imagine it's minimal)...

Also, how does your engine run without the smog system? Have you had any driveablity issues? Has your computer been throwing codes or running in "limp mode"? I've heard that running without the smog system will eventually clog the catalytic converters, which are costly to replace.

Your thoughts???
 
#4 ·
There is a crossover tube that goes from one head to the other. Where that bolts in you can thread in plugs or u can cut the part of that tube off and flip it around and jaw the same bolt to cover the hole (works really well if the smog hole is carboned up bad)
After you do that you can remove everything related to the smog including the selenoids on the passenger fender and then cap off the vacuum line that goes to the intake. Keep the EGR and everything otherwise you'll have to get a tune or a chip to make it so you don't get a check engine light.

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#5 ·
Will removing any of the smog equipment cause any driveablity issues? Will the computer throw codes or run in "limp mode"? I've heard that running without the smog system will eventually clog the catalytic converters, which are costly to replace. What problems may I encounter if I remove this system?
 
#6 ·
It may still throw a code because the computer will notice the smog equipment is gone. If your removing the smog stuff u may as well get rid of the cats anyways cause they will be useless unless you have to pass a visual inspection which you will fail anyways since the smog was removed.

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#7 ·
How is it that the cats are useless because the smog pump has been removed?
 
#11 ·
step by step this is how I'd do it.. get your new delete parts from eBay or rjminjectiontech.com's site is down for some reason :(

!first get the new parts (EGR delete plate, EGR dummy plug, plugs for the back of the heads, and resistors for the TAB/NAD solenoids)

parts links-
EGR delete block- (there are blingy one's but this one will do and is cheap)
Mustang EGR Delete Plate Eliminator 87 93 5 0 | eBay

EGR dummy plug - I have this one in my 93LX and it works! - simulates a EGR signal
1987 1995 Ford Mustang 5 0 EGR Delete | eBay

Resistors (I have these PM me your addy and I'll send you 2-3) -they're 75ohm/3watt IIRC OR 3ohm/75watt- got that info from RJM and bought some of the same one's he sold in bulk to save money..

bolts for the back of the heads are 7/16"-14 threads and need to be 3/4"- 1" long w/ a sizable fender washer

serp belt - use the pic below to decide which you will need and get a quality belt (Gates or Goodyear) - keep in mind the diagram and lengths in it are for use with a 25% crank under drive pulley which is much smaller than a stock 5.0 pulley so you may need a slightly longer belt if running a stock pulley

1. Remove the serp belt

2. unbolt the tube from the back of the heads

3. unscrew the clamp holding the tube going down to the exhaust (most cut the extension off the H pipe and weld the hole shut - get a 3/4" diameter piece of rubber hose about 4" long and a pipe thread plug that fits in the hose- clamp both ends so they stay shut - easier but more money way to fix it is to buy a off road H or X pipe with out the extension tube)

4. unbolt the smog pump from the alt bracket

5. unscrew the lines on the back of the smog pump - remove pump

6. wiggle the tubes out of the engine bay that where connected to the pump/exhaust/back of the heads and cap off any vacuum lines (there is 1 I know for sure but there maybe more- I haven't seen a stone stock car for a long time so use your judgement here..)

7. unbolt the EGR sensor from the intake (carefully pull the plug off the sensor) - you could install the dummy plug now IF you wanted to

8. I'd start with installing the bolts in the back of the heads - use high temp thread sealant on the threads on them as these holes are connected to the exhaust ports of the heads use a larger washer like pictured above as well so these are sealed as good as possible so no exhaust leaks under the hood

9. Installing the EGR block off pate - I've used Ultra Black RTV for it but you can get a new gasket as well - the threads are 5/16"-18 AND 3/8"-16 they'll need to be 3/4" long (1 bolt in each size) - make sure to clean the block surface first! RTV will hold boost as well (mine held 10psi fine)

10. resistors - they are for the solenoids on the passenger side fender well - right below the hood hinge - there are 2-3 of them - deleting the EGR means these can go away to help clean up the engine compartment- or you can leave them and the vacuum lines in place - your choice - no performance gained from removing them - just looks cleaner

10.1 - if you choose to want to remove that stuff in the PS fender well (under hood)- you'll need to remove the passenger side inner fenderwell (safely lift car, remove wheel, remove inner fender) - removal is simple and straight forward - the resistors go in the plugs for those solenoids you remove under the hood to simulate a signal of those solenoids- - some cut the plugs off and solder the resistors to the wires BUT I do not suggest this as you or someone may want to return the car to stock someday

10.2 now you can remove the mass of vacuum lines going from under the hood to the inner fender - cap off any open vacuum ports left

11. install your new shorter serp belt in the way that works best and so the belt doesn't rub itself by the tensioner and the going from the water pump to the alt.. also make sure the flat side of the belt IS wrapped around the water pump pulley as it spins the opposite direction of the rest of the pulleys..

Image
 
#12 ·
Wow! Now that's the type of step by step advice I was asking for when I originally posted this. Thank you so much for taking the time to lay this out for me.

I have a few questions regarding the issues that others have experienced or claim I will have if I remove the smog system....I assume you have done this to your car????

1) Did your computer throw any codes? If so, what codes?
2) Did your check engine light come one after removing the smog system?
3) Did you notice any driveability problems? And if so, what were the problems you experienced?
4) Did your cats become plugged up by removing the smog system (alot of people claim this will happen)?
5) Did you get worse gas mileage after removing the smog system?
6) Does the EGR dummy plug prevent the computer from throwing codes?
7) Does it prevent driveabilty problems by making the computer think the EGR is still connected?
8) What is the purpose of the EGR dummy plug?

Thanks again for your help....
 
#18 ·
I thinks its a 3/8 bolt about an inch long. regular pitch not fine. 3/8x16. are you talking about the plugs? For some strange reason a -4AN plug works in there. Im pretty sure about that but its been a few years. that's if you want to plug it most of the time I just take the crossover tube and cut the ends off, flip them so the solid part goes up against the head with some high temp rtv and let it be.