you can get aftermarket distributors that use hall effect or led but wont have the stock tfi, needing other electronics I am thinking,

I know for sure that the lower casting/housing is similar to many distrubutors from the 60' onward... from points to dual points to hall a similar lower casting was used... I know for sure that you can step UP those older units to the larger caps our fox 5.0's have but I dont know how you could simply step down size on the tfi....

hey is your name refering to ouroboros the self-tail-swalloing-snake/worm as in Eddison's book?

 

Thanks, but need direct TFI replacement..

And CORRECT on the user name.

 

ok I was trying to give you other options because the way I see it you cant do what you want this time.
Here is a combination of my imagination and memory, its bound to be flawed so please check it out. I do think that you cannot pop a small (older style) cap on the new (TFI/ 5.0 EFI) dizzy housing because
1)visualize the older (carb or early duraspark 1) style housing, there are cast bosses that a small roll pin passes through holding on the bit of spring steel that directly holds the cap on
2)the new style housing that holds the tfi module on does not have these clips that are needed to hold on old style small dia cap

notice the adaptor piece from small dia to large dia has torq screws for the (TFI/ 5.0 EFI) assembly

notice the old style/points cap clips (that are held onto the old style casting with roll pins) hold the adaptor piece that lets the old style use the newer large cap

DOES THIS MAKE SENSE, please take a look and tell me if you think Ive got it right, additionally if you find a way around please let me know?

 

Yeah, I see what you're saying, thanks. .How about aftermarket?

 

,mallory at one time made the smallest diameter..

but overall, the ford type pickup is employed on anything built in the last 15 years.

I dunno what your issue is.
we use a "regular" cap all the time.

only other way is to use a belt driven distributor off the cam...
we make um.....

 

Normally the stock SysteMAX II upper doesn't hit the distributor. My issue with the Compucar box upper is that it 'bubbles' out right where the #8 wire would go. I couldn't even get the boot on w/out the 1" spacer, and with the 1" spacer it's a struggle.. I'll check out the Mallory. Thanks Kato.

 

My buddy bought a single turbo 347 with a sheetmetal upper and the dizzy has some sort of metal adapter bolted on with two roll pins sticking up through it. ON top of that is a very small cap that is held on with two small piecies of metal that are an upside down L that clamp the cap to this plate with long allen screws. I looked before for some kind of brand name but never found any, Very nice setup for the stock dizzy. I think this is what you need but im sorry, I dont know where it originated from

 

It's the UPR unit I'm sure. Only thing with that is the adapter base has to be kept, that mounts to it. Not only is my cap in the way, but the adapter base is too..

 

Here are some pics of mine with the UPR adapter and an MSD cap. I also have some pics with the UPR supplied cap as well.

 

the base looks the same, its just a different cap and now that I think about it, the base even hit the intake a little bit, but someone removed a little bit of material off the base(not enough to harm anything), and now it clears, but with very little room!

 

Yes, you just described a UPR cap adapter. The little aluminum "L" shaped pieces were to hold the crappy cap that UPR supplied with the adapter. I found an MSD cap that fit and allowed me to eliminate the "L" shaped hold downs.
We have a customer's car at the shop that has a very old set up using a fully ported and welded truck lower (similar to what the original poster described) with a Cartech box upper. It too is extremely close even with the cap adapter, but it worked with no grinding. Im not sure if the Systemax lower moves the ports forward, but that could possible be the issue. I have a Systemax as you can see and have plenty of clearance with the Systemax upper.

 

Thats very interesting to know that msd makes a cap to replace. Thanks for the tidbit of useful knowledge, I actually have the motor out of the car right now. When he bought the car, it was claimed to be 807 rwhp but we didnt see the dyno sheet. It runs the old style fast computer. I told him to wait till I get my dyno in the ground so We could retune it but he couldnt wait, so now its at the machine shop getting checked out because of a broken ring. The intake set up seems to be a weind doublt 4 barrel carb setup with injector bungs welded in and a sheetmetal upper. It only had one little breather hose in the v.c. so Im going to put a vacuum pump on it before I retune it when the motor goes back in. The motor normally saw over 30 psi of boost. Fun car, but just needs some bugs worked out!!!

 

i went with the small cap MSD, but it's used as a cam sync and i use a crank trigger...

that UPR piece looks like it may work. could you take a grinder and take a little off but still keep it sealed up?

 

The MSD cap I used is from a distributor like you have. You have the one with the sensor mounted in the side of the distributor shaft?