[DAVE94LIGHTNING]

That AMX ran high 10's I think. I shift at 5500rpm which usually results in the best MPH. It pulls the tires easy with the struts at full loose but the 60 ft time sucks 1.8 secs. On the nitrous video the struts are tightened a little (2 clicks) and it lifted both wheels just enough to launch well. The 60ft time was 1.71 on the bottle. I'm still going to play with it on the motor since it is running colder plugs it may not run as well. But I'm gunning for low 13's on motor and high 11's on bottle.

The stock 5.0 motor has dinky ports in the heads and intake and little valves etc...this seems to run out of air at 96 mph in CA air no matter what we try. Any other ideas to get the car to Mph higher? No significant weight removal or comfort removal allowed. I'm looking for hp tuning suggestions.

 

[DAVE94LIGHTNING]

Video of the nitrous pass from another camera in the stands. This was on the pontiac website. Better view of the launch from the front.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4E64dYCByZM

 

[93FIVEOH]

I appreciate your attention to detail with trying to uphold the stock-appearing sleeper image! Kudos to you on acheiving those times, as well. I can't wait to see/read about it N/A with the narrowed and widened 10 holes. Good luck with both of your cars!

 

[Trey LePark]

Any other ideas to get the car to Mph higher? No significant weight removal or comfort removal allowed. I'm looking for hp tuning suggestions.

I can't make your car MPH faster but I do think you can get your 60 foots down.

It looks like you're suffering from too much traction. Your car launches, pulls the wheels and then dies. It just doesn't have the low end power to keep the RPMs up. The first thing to remember is if the back of the car is going down then it wasting energy pushing the back of the car down that it could be using to push the car forward. Your right rear is squatting real bad. At the very least you need to put an air bag in the right rear and tighten up the compression on that shock. An anti roll bar is what you really need.

You can also try increasing the air pressure in both tires to try to get a little controlled tire spin at launch. If the tires are spinning the RPM will come up. If the RPM is up you're making more hp. Cars that make more power don't have to play with this as much. It will be a fine line between the perfect amount of tire spin, your right foot and air pressure. You want to experiment with the right combo and it could take quite a few passes to find it. It's kinda like slipping the clutch, you're just going to use the suspension to induce the slippage. Definitely buy a very high quality tire pressure gauge and see about some nitrogen for the tires instead of plain air. You absolutely need to keep a log book of everything you do and every little change you make.

Oh... Stay out of the water box. You should have plenty of power to turn those tires and heat them up without intentionally getting them wet. The only reason the water is there is to help those cars that don't have the power to do a proper burnout. You already know what happens if you don't get them perfectly dry.

 

[fordonN20]

I can't make your car MPH faster but I do think you can get your 60 foots down.

It looks like you're suffering from too much traction. Your car launches, pulls the wheels and then dies. It just doesn't have the low end power to keep the RPMs up. The first thing to remember is if the back of the car is going down then it wasting energy pushing the back of the car down that it could be using to push the car forward. Your right rear is squatting real bad. At the very least you need to put an air bag in the right rear and tighten up the compression on that shock. An anti roll bar is what you really need.

You can also try increasing the air pressure in both tires to try to get a little controlled tire spin at launch. If the tires are spinning the RPM will come up. If the RPM is up you're making more hp. Cars that make more power don't have to play with this as much. It will be a fine line between the perfect amount of tire spin, your right foot and air pressure. You want to experiment with the right combo and it could take quite a few passes to find it. It's kinda like slipping the clutch, you're just going to use the suspension to induce the slippage. Definitely buy a very high quality tire pressure gauge and see about some nitrogen for the tires instead of plain air. You absolutely need to keep a log book of everything you do and every little change you make.

Oh... Stay out of the water box. You should have plenty of power to turn those tires and heat them up without intentionally getting them wet. The only reason the water is there is to help those cars that don't have the power to do a proper burnout. You already know what happens if you don't get them perfectly dry.

I agree with the controlled spin. I found that 1 to 1 1/2 revolutions of controlled spin helped my car. Have one of your video guys concentrate on the rear tire and the other on the car's launch. As said above, it may take awhile, but there's roome to improve on your 60'. I've been following your thread since the beginning. Very cool.

 

[Atrim90GT]

I understand everyone likes there own look but why are you guys so eagered to do the stock look?? why are u guys trying to hide your mods lol.... I'm proud to pull up in a whistlin camn out its ass murdered out 90 GT. just me though! And, Dave - I hate hurst I broke that #### straight in half on one of my powershifts from 3 to 4. PRO 50 best way to go, shortest shifter and best shifter on the market! but im a c4 guy what do i know?

 

[DAVE94LIGHTNING]

You guys are full of good info. I have had the pro 5.0 on other cars and I didn't like the notchy, metal to metal click into each gear etc... If I break this shifter I'll be surprised. It looks like a really nicely built piece. So far I'm happy with it it shifted nice at the last track outing and I can slam the gears with confidence because of the stop bolts.

Also you are all correct about the suspension. I had some suspension guys review the videos on Yellowbullet.com and they also think that the car needs an anti roll bar for sure. I'm probably not going to use one since it is such a street car, but I will compensate with an airbag in the passenger side spring.

Also the car spins the tires about 3 revolutions before moving forward. (Easy to measure with the white stripe on the slick). This is probably due to the stock shocks compressing too easily and allowing the tire to spin hard,the rear squats, then dead hooks. This plants the rear tires, pulls the front wheels and drags the RPM's down killing the forward progress until the motor picks back up and pulls out of it.

So yes..I will increase tire psi for now to find the treshold for traction, wheel speed and forward movement to see if we can improve the launch. Also I will go to strange adjustable shocks out back and 4:10's soon as possible. The car was too easy to drive/shift on the bottle with the 3:73's and it went through the traps at less than 5000 rpm in 4th.

Some reviews were:

"I would say not enough gear for the power of the engine. Your dumping the clutch and you get a burst of power but thats it. Also seems like a slight bog under just at 60ft.. Could use a firmer RR shock or a air bag in there."

" It needs a ARB in it and you need to video from the other side, its tucking the right rear in the wheel well. The rear shocks stock they cant hold the hit."


Here is a still pic from the launch I love this car.

 

[Trey LePark]

they also think that the car needs an anti roll bar for sure. I'm probably not going to use one since it is such a street car, but I will compensate with an airbag in the passenger side spring.

You can put the roll bar on and just use it at the track. They're very, very easy to connect and disconnect without removing anything from the car.

These pages of suspension wisdom will help you out too as well as being an excellent source for quality suspension parts.

www.baselinesuspensions.com

 

[ITSASIX]

You can DEF get the 60s down! With 4 banger front springs, Tokico Blue struts and not sway bar up front, MM rear lowers, stock springs and mickey thompson drag radials I was able to cut consistent 1.7s and a best of 1.65 60ft...get those 60s down and you'll cut your ET down quite a bit!!!
Matt

 

[Bisquick666]

I understand everyone likes there own look but why are you guys so eagered to do the stock look?? why are u guys trying to hide your mods lol.... I'm proud to pull up in a whistlin camn out its ass murdered out 90 GT. just me though! And, Dave - I hate hurst I broke that #### straight in half on one of my powershifts from 3 to 4. PRO 50 best way to go, shortest shifter and best shifter on the market! but im a c4 guy what do i know?

Sleepers are nice. I used to own a 1989 Hyundai Excel with a 4G63-T swap... it was mostly stock and put down 280whp and 330lb-ft. But the car weight 1900lbs wet and with me in it. I go ZERO looks from any police....

Even my current mustang is low key, but a solid low 11s car on street tires... its not a drag race car anyways (American Iron)

Nice Job! Keep up the good work... Have you though about any T-Moss ported stuff?

 

[RamAir02TA7777]

Did you ever pick up any gains with the timing locked?

 

[DAVE94LIGHTNING]

Huge gains. It went from a 9.1 in the 1/8th to a 8.7 1/8. That was with 32* locked. The other mods at that time were bigger MAF, 30lb injectors, sub frames and an aluminum drive shaft. I don't think that those mods amounted to much overall. The 30lb injectors probably made the car run richer than it needed to anyway and the sub frames weighed it down As soon as I turned up the timing and locked it down at 32* the seat of the pants difference was amazing. Down low there was so much power and the car shredded the tires in all gears from a roll. It definitely increased the low end torque and the car is a blast to drive. It starts easily with locked timing and I will never go back to spout in timing again

 

[RamAir02TA7777]

Thats a nice gain yeah I might have to try that sometime when the weather warms up around here and I can actually work on stuff outside again haha.

 

[G14CLASSIFIED]

excuse the noobness but how do you do this???

Huge gains. It went from a 9.1 in the 1/8th to a 8.7 1/8. That was with 32* locked. The other mods at that time were bigger MAF, 30lb injectors, sub frames and an aluminum drive shaft. I don't think that those mods amounted to much overall. The 30lb injectors probably made the car run richer than it needed to anyway and the sub frames weighed it down As soon as I turned up the timing and locked it down at 32* the seat of the pants difference was amazing. Down low there was so much power and the car shredded the tires in all gears from a roll. It definitely increased the low end torque and the car is a blast to drive. It starts easily with locked timing and I will never go back to spout in timing again

 

[BAERSysteMAX]

excuse the noobness but how do you do this???

take the spout connector out of the distirbutor harness and use a timming gun to set the distributor at 32* then do NOT put that little plug back in.

 

[G14CLASSIFIED]

is this considered a track only mod?

take the spout connector out of the distirbutor harness and use a timming gun to set the distributor at 32* then do NOT put that little plug back in.

 

[fordjunky]

is this considered a track only mod?

The think the stock EEC varies the timing until the throttle is wide open & at a certain rpm in which then it totals out. I think the varied timing is a safety measure of a daily driving encountering raised temperatures etc.

I think the reason this works is because when you let off the throttle to shift, the timing stays totaled instead of falling back in between shifts.
So the slower you are at shifting the better it may help you et due to the rpms drop down so far.
So on a automatic, I don't see this helping on a wide open run.

 

[DAVE94LIGHTNING]

It is a all time mod not track only. I will not be switching back to spout timing. I drive the car on the street almost daily and it starts up great, it idles smoother and it has a lot more punch down low than it did before. It should work for an auto or a stick because both cars have computers that add or subtract timing based on load tables. At low load you have more timing and at high load you have less timing. This locked timing gives you total timing at all load values so the car is a lot more responsive. Just use good gas and don't go crazy with adding timing

 

[RamAir02TA7777]

I actually did this the other weekend I didnt really feel much of a difference maybe alittle down low the car seemed to crank funny once on a 20 degrees morning though so I went back to the spout im going to try it at the track in the spring and see if it helps though it did seem to have alittle more lowend though but we will see it definitely makes sense though instead of the timing curving in its always there at any rpm maybe it would ping if your lugging it up a hill in like 5th gear at like 1,500 though haha.

 

[topless88stang]

nice looking coupe