Less parasitic drag and it enables you to cool the car easily at the track. Those are the main benefits.

 

I think Mike was eluding to one of the reasons I went electric. With the motor off, you can cool the car. Turn the fan and pump on while in the staging lanes or pits while you are waiting with the motor off. However you end up wiring it, you might want to ensure you have this option.

 

thanks mike. How are they triggered to come on?

 

Through a relay. Either set them to come on with the key, or on a toggle. Toggle is preferred for racing applications sine you can turn on the water pump and fan at the same time, without having to key on the car and waste battery.

Mike

 

sounds like it can be triggered with the electric fan, no?

 

Well, this replaces your mechanical pump. So, unless you don't want to be pumping water through the motor for some reason at all times, you would want to run the pump all the time. It is probably easiest to wire it to come on with the ignition...then it is something you will not forget to turn on.

Mike

 

You can buy a controller which will run the pump and your radiator fan(s) proportionally to cooling demands and also ramp up the voltage gently when the pump and fans are turned on. This will eliminate those big turn on surges which are hard on the charging system and free up some drag when full operating speeds aren't required. The Delta DC controller is a great one for this kind of application.

http://www.dccontrol.com/constant_temperature_controllers.htm

 

It's the electric water pump good for daily use?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

 

It's the electric water pump good for daily use?

Yes, they are generally very reliable as long as you buy a decent quality one and use the proper controller setup. A PWM controller with a soft start circuit greatly increases the motor life on the pump. There are now actually quite a few cars on the road these days with electric water pumps doing all the engine cooling.

 

What brand of pump are you considering? I just noticed my pump is dripping on the crank pulley when I was undeer the car doing some other stuff.
If I have to replace the pump, this electric setup sound very tempting.

 

havent looked to much, but im familiar with the Mezziar (sp) brand. I just got a 2sp from dcc to soft start my electric fan, wonder if both can be controlled by it?

 

I just got a 2sp from dcc to soft start my electric fan, wonder if both can be controlled by it?

Not certain what Baskin is currently offering, but I have one of his older Contour Fan/controller combos that came with a seprate circuit to run an electric pump. The pump circuit uses the same temp probe as the fan. I don't have an electric pump so that feature is not being used but at least it's available should I want an electric pump in the future.

 

Meziere electric water pumps with the idler pulley are great. I have them on both of my mustangs and I can route my belt like stock with the idler pulley.

 

I had a brand new Mezziere EWP fail after two months. bearings went bad and froze up, leaving me stranded and tow cost me $100. I will never run one on the street again.

waste of time and money for show. went to a Eddy Victor hi-flow WP with a 93 cobra pulley. The eddy keeps the engine just as cool as the EWP.

 

I had a brand new stewart mechanical pump fail on my in less than 250 miles. left me stranded the same way any other failed pump would. Typically people who say this are ones that don't have an electric pump and are resistant to change. Maybe this is not your case, but any pump can fail for no reason at the drop of a hat. Especially if they have people working where they are manufactured. People are known to make mistakes from time to time.

For what its worth, when I switched to an EWP and electric fan, I noticed more seat of the pants difference than any simple bolt on mod I had done other than the h/c/i. I would do it again on any other car I get down the road, daily driven or weekend warrior. I also called mezeire to find out details on there pumps and they told me they had a blem pump that they would sell me for half price and it was brand new. When I received it, the black anodize had a tiny nick in it in a spot that wasn't even visible then installed.

Edit: Id also like to add that the benefits to an electric pump outway the potential imagined gremlins that could cause failure. Cooling at the track in the lanes when the engine is off. Plus cooling in traffic is way better because your not relying on extra rpm to spin the pump faster.

 

sucks to hear that

 

A while back I did some dyno testing of how much power a mechanical pump will soak up. A very good aftermarket pump will only cost you around 5 hp, while the cheaper parts store pumps will pull around 10 hp tops. Much of the loss was from the drive belt and bearing friction.

I think a mechanical pump makes the most sense on a street driven car due to it's reliability and simplicity. You can actually use an auxiliary after-run pump for circulating the coolant when the engine isn't running. Simply hook it in line with the heater hoses.

 

I have used electric WP's on the track on almost everything strip only, but never on the street. I tried electric WP's a few times in the past, and they could not keep my engines cool in hot weather. While they were fine at idle, I had problems on hot days with water boiling in the block at highway speeds and after a hard acceleration on a warm day with a thouroughly warm engine.

Personally, I'd never consider one again on the street for anything that is cammed up or has a large displacement. They might do OK in a 20 MPG highway car, but everything I tried on 351's with big cams had occasional boiling problems inside the engine.

When you run an electric pump you still extract the same power or more power from something, unless you have something that magically violates conservation of energy. Where does that energy come from? The alternator pulley. You can shut the alternator off in a hard run to save power, and you can cool the engine without the motor on, but if you are burning lots of fuel it takes a whole bunch of water flow to move the water in the rear of the block enough. If you don't shut the alternator off, you are still loading the belt to run the pump.

 

For me, it is an issue of getting the car cool at the track. For a heavily street driven car, I don't know if it would be worth the effort.

Mike

 

I noticed no performance decrease in going from an EWP to the Victor hi flow mechanical pump, none whatsoever.

 

My meziere water pump has worked flawlessly for 2 years. I have it on my 408 with a large radiator and a electric fan. No problems what so ever. In fact Down at mustang week in Myrtle Beach SC. My car stayed cool in 100 degree weather with the AC on in stop and go traffic. My experience has been good. I liked it so much I put one on my 418 too and its working fine. Both engines make 480 and 518 hp to the ground so they are not what I consider too mild.

 

I run a CSR electric pump and Ford Contour Fans (dual, with hi/low) on my street/stip car. NO cooling issues in the Texas summers. Cools down quick at the track. On the street I normally run on low fan speed (7.5 volts).

 

My set up with the meziere water pump

 

"When you run an electric pump you still extract the same power or more power from something, unless you have something that magically violates conservation of energy." Well - simply inaccurate. Much like an electric cooling fan, well designed electric water pumps can do the coolant circulation job more efficiently than a mechanical unit. And when controlled with a variable speed controller - you get another layer of efficiency -- only spinning the pump as much as necessary to keep the car cool. The mechanical pump has a bypass built in - so even if the t'stat has flow shut down or at a minimum - the mechanical pump is still pumping away in a bypass loop. When controlled with a variable current controller - the t'stat goes away completely, and the temp of the motor is controlled by a single unit which does so by altering the speed of the pump and the cooling fans.

The OEM's have been running electrical pumps on lots of cars for decades now. And they do it because they're more efficient = better fuel mileage. Many cars now have electric power steering (either the pump or the rack), electric compressors for the A/C, etc. All for efficiency sake.

Now - whether or not the makers of AFTERMARKET pumps for the 5.0L are designing/offering a pump that's intended to manage street use -- that's a question for them. But if it's designed and controlled properly - it's significantly more efficient than the mechanical pump it's replacing. Granted - it takes some power to run; but not as much as the mechanical unit. That's why so many OEM's have made the switch.

 

Michael said it correctly about the efficiency, also keep in mind the alternator charges the battery and there is stored energy. If you want to drive the electrics without the alternator while on the track, you can use a switch or take the belt off. However, I think most people that have tried this do not gain anything.

My 434W with be around .750ish lift 276/283 on a 109, we'll see if the pump will keep up with cooling on the street. I did get a 55gph pump and I am running a MK VIII fan. Also, I've had mechanical water pumps and belts break too. Anything is subject to failure. If my pump fails often I'll run a mech pump, but I doubt I am going to have that problem.

 

thanks fellas, ill keep this one on the burner until funds say to get one!

 

this one has two outputs, one for low speed and one for high. its meant for two speed fan obviously, but i wonder if one could be used for electric water pump since i currently only have a single speed fan?

 

My controller is not a two-speed, but a veriable with what appears to be two seperate circuits. The only common element is the temp probe feed. This contoller came with the potentiometer which allows the user to adjust fan (and I suppose pump) on/off temps.