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Salt and Pepper delete?

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10K views 45 replies 17 participants last post by  Stangdawg  
#1 ·
I’ve about had it with these damn 10 pin connectors. I clean and manipulate the pins and everything is great for a couple weeks, then my intermittent TPS signal issue reappears.
Options are to replace them with a better connector, or delete them completely. If I delete them, should I solder and heatshrink, or crimp and heatshrink?
The only downside I see about deleting them is the inconvenience of tieing the harness out of the way when r&r the engine......which hopefully is a rare occurrence.
Anyone here deleted them? Happy with the outcome, and what would you do differently?
Cheers.
 
#2 ·
You could do 2 Deutsch style 12 pin connectors if you want to keep the ability to easily disconnect the injector harness. We did a delete on a car and just stagger cut, crimped and heat shrank them.
 
#6 ·
This is what i would do if i was going to do it. I use seamless barrel connectors and marine heat heat shrink. Marine grade has a heat activated glue/sealant
 
#13 ·
oh brother.
If I had money to do it right the first time, I’d have a Pro-M on there instead of the lowly OEM efi.
lol.
one of the perks of spending the money in the right places. and one of the reasons I bought the pro m.

If I told you how many times i repaired the harness, i should've just put in good used. I basically did the same thing you are about to. I did one wire at a time. staggered all the solder joints. I should've took pics. It was beautiful.
 
#9 ·
Just a suggestion, but if you use the stamped terminals (as opposed to the solid pins), you don't need to use the expensive crimper.
Example:

These pins...

Can be crimped with these crimpers...

I hope this helps.
 
#10 ·
Wow I’m having the same problem with this crap salt and pepper connectors. I love the pin idea. What connectors go with those pins?

I get check engine light coming on at WOT with the d@mn connectors loose some other connection. Pisses me off. I LVR looked at a new engine harness ($$ ouch $$) from LMR but sure don’t want to do a body wiring harness as well!
 
#11 ·
Your easiest route may be to order them as "kits" with all the parts you will need.
It may also be worth keeping the connectors keyed (one grey, and one black), so you don't accidentally plug the wrong two together.


Going this route, it looks like Grey = DTM12-N-SF ($14.62 set), and Black = DTM12-N-SF-BK ($19.95 set).
(Remember to select the stamped terminals)

BTW, I am not affiliated with this site. I just use it as a back up for work, in case Allied or Mouser is out of stock on what we need. You can probably get the parts a little cheaper from Allied or Mouser, or possibly even Waytek, but you will need to make sure to get all the pieces you need, which is a little difficult in COVID world right now. My one suggestion would be to avoid Amazon or eBay, to avoid the "copies" and "fake versions" of these connectors, which are problematic. That said, if it helps, Deutsch DTM connectors are interchangeable with Amphenol ATM connectors, so mix and match as needed.

I hope this helps.
 
#14 ·
#16 ·
I use Deutsch style connectors for the race car stuff & would use them if deleting the salt / pepper connectors.

Use these crimpers they work great... I'll use them over the $280 pair of HDT's often because they're actually more comfortable.

IWISS Closed Barrel Crimper 4 Way Indent,8 Impression Type for Deutsch Solid Contacts gage 14,16&18(IWD-16) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V1C6N2...07V1C6N2V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_S9DAM695SQM8034VV5Q0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
That’s the knockoff I was looking at. Looks like it would be fine for a one time project like this, but I’ll probably just go with the kit listed earlier.
Thanks all.
 
#15 ·
Metrapack has connectors with 10 pin.
 
#17 ·
Now that I‘ve researched Bubba Style on these Deutsch connectors, I’m going to go with the DT Series with the solid (closed barrel) contacts. They’re more expensive them the DTM Series but will take a higher amperage and bigger wire size.
These connectors look really slick. Should be a fun little project.
 
#20 ·
Not to confuse the subject, since you're already on a good path, but Nitrous SSC's suggestion was a reasonable one as well. Going the Metri-pack route may save you a few dollars, and they're easy to work with. Its the same thing that Holley, FAST and BigStuff use for their injector harnesses, and what every factory LS motor uses for things like their coil harnesses (although 8-pin, not 10-pin).


If you go this route, I think you're looking for 570-201, 570-202, 570-203 & 570-204. The easiest source would be direct from Holley, or from Summit or Jegs.

I hope this helps.
 
#23 ·
The plyers for the Metripack are cheap too. $17 on Amazon. I just redid some of my Holley harness because I did something stupid with a torch. Haha.
 
#24 ·
The plyers for the Metripack are cheap too. $17 on Amazon. I just redid some of my Holley harness because I did something stupid with a torch. Haha.
haha oops, got a little too happy with the torch eh?

A few years back I bought a really nice Weather Pack kit with a decent crimper from Weatherpack.com
They offer the Metripack variety as well. There's nothing wrong with the Delphi stuff, the auto manufacturers used it for years, they provide a solid, weatherproof connection & don't look half bad either.

Depending on application & vehicle, I use Deutsch or the Delphi stuff.... you won't find anything else on my cars.
Image
 
#25 ·
I like those holley connectors......I think I’m going to change direction and use the series linked:

Just wondering if someone can confirm I have the right crimper here for them:

Thanks.
 
#35 ·
be careful with how much you move around these old dry rotted harnesses to replace the salt and pepper connectors as you may fix one problem and create dozen new ones...
 
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