I don't know about your year, I have an 89. I just put one in and like it. There's a fair amount of grinding to get the bars to "notch" together good. But I highly doubt any cage/bar will go together with very little work. You'll need to cut your door bars to whatever length you need them depending on the angle you install them at, how far forward you want them to go, etc. They just pass through your shoulder to elbow on your upper arm though. The biggest pain is getting the angle cut where it meets the floor up by your feet.
I'm sure some other brands may go together easier, but my S&W is pretty good. They may still be on sale too. I paid $109 plus $65 shipping. Very reasonable for what you get.
If you can weld good go for it, because $1700,,,,,,,,,,,,,yeoooooooooouch!!!!!!!!!!!
Crap I'll drive to your house and do it for half that plus some Taco Bell.
I painted mine with Semi Gloss black Rustoleum. 2 coats and it looks sweet. You could use that POR-15 paint for a more durable finish. I've heard some good things about that stuff.
Just be prepared to do a lot of welding in tight areas and on the thin floorboards. I'm fairly new to welding and didn't have any problems so it's not as hard as some people say. Watch for fuel lines, undercoating, carpet, etc, and have a fire extinguisher ready. I used compressed air to blow out any small flame-ups and to help cool areas down fast.

Here's the link: http://www.swracecars.com/ looks like they're still on sale.
If you get one prepare to spend at least a half hour removing the thin sticky tape they wrap it with and cleaning the tubes.
My experience is they're a great company.

 

Thanks for the response. Yeah, I thought the price I was quoted was a little high too. I'm also new to welding but there are several guys at work that are experienced welders and are willing to give me a hand.

I thought the S&W would be nice to get the 10pt and only install 8 points until I'm ready. Mine is a '95. Do your bars going from the main hoop back to the trunk follow your window or do they go through your back seat?

 

I put a S&W 8pt kit in my car. I bent the door bars and back down bars to make them fit how I wanted. For the money it's hard to beat their kit if your willing to do some cutting/grinding for a good fit.

 

You know I have done it both ways, I put a cage in my old car and it worked ok looked somewhat okay. The hardest part was the fact that I used and wire welder and it just doesn't get into tight places very well. The other thing I found out was getting the NHRA certification was almost impossible, it took two tries and twice the price. But I just recently had Wild Rides put a 12 piont cage in and when I went to get it certified I showed the tech my sales receipt form WR and the sticker was on and certified in 10 minutes, and the cage looks flowless..

 

NX, my car is obviously different that yours, being an 89, but yes my rear bars to follow the window. I cut my main hoop off just enough so I could get my headliner back in, so the rear bars are somewhat tight to the ceiling but do taper downward a bit from where they attach to the main hoop. By the time they get to the hatch area, they are a couple inches from the window at least at the top, if not more. I do however really like how the bars fit overall. I don't know how you plan on keeping the rear seat area functional and making it NHRA legal though. The main hoop has a cross bar that must be no more than 4" below the drivers shoulders and not above. I know for a fact no one could get into my cars rear area, even if the seat were still there and even if it was that little guy from Lorf of the Rings.

 

My wife has this crazy idea that I could still be able to take the kids for a ride if I left the back seat. I'd like to go ahead and do the rear seat delete. If I were to get into an accident I don't think it would be very safe to be back there anyway with that bar going accross right in front of the rear seat. I'll probably do the rear seat delete anyway, it's not very practical to keep it.

As far as taking it somewhere to get it done, if finances allowed that is what I would do. Since I've gotten outragious quotes for the insall I'll just have to do it myself. I would like to take it to Wild Rides or Wolfe but since both those shops are halfway accross the country I'd have to pass on that too.

 

My 14pt S&W required ALOT of cutting and grinding!! It took an expierenced welder almost 12hrs to get it all in with my help. Course for the price I didnt mind the extra work but NONE of the bars where tagged and the instructions just plain SUCKED!! My diagram had a 89ish Camaro diagram and a 69 Camaro for phots drawn in
A simple 8pt would prolly be self explanatory but 14pts can become confusing!!

 

I put an S&W 8 point in my car but only went with the 6 points needed. It went in easy and was well worth it. You can see install pics and info on my site under the tech section.
I got alot of info from people here though.
Good luck
Dave

 

I have installed a s&w bar in my car. It takes alot of cutting and notching, but that is a one bar fits all. I also installed a wide rides bar in my friend car that was super easy. The bar came prenotched. All you have to do is weld.

 

I have a 8 Point S&W Cage. I cannot complain one bit about the quality of a prefabbed cage. Install was fairly easy,,, besides having to touch up some of the prenotched tubes. I would definitly use them again. I am gonna try postin some pics for ya! This is after I just tacked it all in place..... Waiting for final welds.

Kyle

 

Ill have pics of my install up soon.

 

Hey KSSTANG, did you cut holes for the kicker bars and go to subframe connectors, or did you just weld them to the plates on the floor?

 

I just welded them to the plates on the floor.... I probably should have really taken the time and gone to the subframes... but... I kinda got anxious and in a hurry to get it in..... But.... I guarantee its not going anywhere.... I cannot believe how much it stiffened the chassis up.

Kyle

 

Heck of a deal, just what I wanted to hear.