I have used both. I like the world block. I dont know what if anything has changed with world blocks. The other nice block is the ford racing alum 9.5, take a look at those.

Here is a world 408 build.

 

Do you paint them too? Is it a fight against corrosion or just a customers wishes?

 

Thanks Woody, I think I sent you PM a few days ago. I'm not sure if you got it or not about this exact topic. If you want me to post here or PM you with what I need again I will. I don't want to mess around I would like the short block done so I can put it in the car this Spring. Ah the heck with it, Would like a 9.5" BMP SBF Aluminum Block to 408CI, neutral balance, and internals to handle 1200 HP, also need it to be a dish piston for turbo use and AFR225 heads(possibly AFR 220 Renegades in the near future). I can find out exactly what the 408ci I am replacing has for the CR, I want to keep the new 408 as close to the old one as possible, to keep the combination working good. I asked him what pistons he had in the 408 now, said they were made by Probe and are a reversed dome piston and yielded a 10.2:1 CR. I don't know more about the build to find out what -cc they are. I asked him what -cc the pistons are and when he gets back to me I will post here. Just need price on the new block/rotating assem., and machine work shipped to Bloomsburg, PA 17815. Thank you for your time Woody, Michael B.

 

Send it again if you would please.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

PM sent. I wanted to have a 363 built too while this 408w is getting done, but I may hold off until next winter for the 363. Thanks again, Michael B.

 

I pant them all, raw cast iron will flash rust in a blink of an eye. Customer chooses color

 

Ok, yes I've seen blocks rust overnight. What about the Aluminum blocks as I will be ordering? I'm not sure I would like it painted, but we can discuss this later. I'll have to PM you too about the FRPP Aluminum Blocks just to see the price comparison. I'm still hooked on the BMP alum block though. Thanks again for everything Woody.

 

Do those Al blocks use stepped sleeves on the top? They can't be that thick all the way down.

 

yes

 

Aluminum we can leave raw, thats not an issue.

 

As long as it wont corrode I would rather it raw. If its gonna get that white powdery look after a while it may be better to clear coat if possible or paint. not really a big concern right now. The heads are 58cc's Woody, I also PM 'ed that to you. Thanks again, Michael B.

 

Here ya go - a little background for you on what that white powdery substance on aluminum actually is. Does Aluminum Rust?

 

I always understood that Aluminum "rust" was a by product of how much nickel was in the alloy, and unlike iron rust it is passive in nature as the air turns it and it actually creates its own natural barrier. Yes dissimilar metals cause other deterioration issues with aluminum but hey don't do that

 

Aluminum undergoes a process called pacification. This outermost layer of the metal corrodes, leaving that dull look. However, unlike rust, the corroded layer is bonded and sticks to the aluminum, making a protective coating that protects the rest of the metal. I believe zinc also shares this property

 

The layer of aluminum oxide forms very quickly if the aluminum is prepped in the presence of oxygen. The good news is that using a self etching primer usually works fine - but the action of the etching agent usually roughs up the surface of the aluminum a bit. Not an issue with as-cast surfaces.

 

Well looks like I'm going to order a BMP Alum 408w. Just waiting for the quote and then to pay the bill and await for delivery! I'm pumped...I'll post pics of the "re-freshening" of the car when I get it, in the member build up section.. Michael B.

 

Stick with dart. World does a nice job on the Chevy stuff but the ford is not on the same level as the dart

 

That red motor looks like a 460 block with the extra head bolt holes, really nice.

 

I have a dart, the previous owner of the motor had problems with the sleeves being not set all the way in the deck, he fixed it. I bought the shortblock for what the block costs and put new rings and bearings in it and it has been flawless for me so far. If i were building a forced induction motor an aluminum block would not be my first choice.