Well, this is no yoke.

Measure the yoke and see if it's tapered.

 

Another unlikely possibility is the yoke is tight fitting in the new bushing and there's a parallelism issue between the output shaft and bushing bore.

 

I've never heard of a tapered bushing.

Usually the cause of what you're experiencing, is because when you use a hammer and bushing driver, instead of a press, you mushroom the end of the bushing your hitting with the driver. Making that one end ID (inside diameter) smaller than what it's suppose to be.

The cure, is to hit the bushing driver with MANY smaller smacks with the hammer, instead of 5-6 big smacks. Take your time, the ID will stay the same once you finally get it to the correct depth.

I've done it a few times myself. Then I went and got a press. It's soOoo much faster and easier now! (Yes, buying a press for 1 bushing would be overkill, they usually run $1000 or more.) You can always take the extension housing to a tranny shop and pay them to press in a new bushing for $5-10. Then you won't have the mushroom-end problem.

Good luck

 

I've never heard of a tapered bushing.

You underestimate the Chinese....or have never checked a set of their rods.

 

I got it in, being this is the first time I've done this I expected it to just slip in like it slipped out.

I think with the new bushing it was just really tight.

So I cleaned the yoke splines really well just in case and lubed it up and got it in by just shifting back and forth and sort of "walking" it in and it's in perfectly.

When I put the bushing in I definitely took my time and just knocked in slowly. The cool thing about the tool I have is it fits the inner diameter of the bush, so if it were to have mushroomed, it would have gone out instead of in, since the driver wouldn't allow it to go in. But I think it was fine.

 

 

NOW you tell me

Well I hope and pray that this works. If not I guess I'll have to go back to the drawing board

 

I use a cheap 20 ton press for this kind of stuff. I went to the parts store and got an exhaust tailpipe adapter that was a few thou smaller than the bushing od and used it as the driver to remove the old bushing.

More often than not you need to slightly hone the new bushing after its pressed back in with a brake wheel cylinder hone and some transmission fluid as lubricant. This guarantees proper and parallel clearances to the slip yoke. Most new bushings are way too tight and you want about .002" radial clearance. Always put a light coating of grease on the bushing od and the tailshaft surfaces to avoid galling the aluminum.

 

408 is right on the money. These bushing should be honed or reamed with tools. But none of us have the exact reamer for it. There is a high spot in the bushing from various reasons and you need to get it down. Either from the press, housing and/or bushing dimensions. I used some lapping compound with oil on the yoke to get the right clearance on mine. Clean up throughly! A brake cylinder hone would be perfect.


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I rebuild transmissions for a living and very few of the bushings need any type of honing. You have the right tool, and the press, there should be no fitment issues. Regardless if they are a split bushing with a seam, or a seamless bushing.

The ONLY times I've ever had to use a small flapper wheel to open up a bushing ID, is when I used a hammer & bushing driver, and the bushing mushroomed. This is with correct bushing driver tools that have the step, where part of the driver is inside the bushing, and part of the driver is on the edge of the bushing.

But like I said, if you have the correct tools, 99% of the time you should never have a problem.

 

Some bushings are designed to be sized/honed to fit after install and I usually prefer those when I have a choice, especially if it's a high hp/rpm application. The cheaper seamed bushings are usually all over the place with clearances and almost always end up developing a high spot and some taper after install right at the seam regardless of install method.

 

Well everything seems to be fine. Took it for a drive and all seems well so I'm just glad it all worked out

 

Good job =)

 

Thanks man... first time doing all of this so I'm super stoked it actually all works and my car isn't on fire hehe.

 

Yeah, that's always a plus lol.

 

I thought that once.

Halfway home, the driveshaft fell out.