Will the Fox body kit run a 351w?
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I use the low dollar pressure sensors, think I paid $70 shipped for 2 of them. Easy to set up in the software as custom sensor. The handheld is nice for seeing all your gauges and a/f and you use it for dataloging. Definatly get the usb cable and laptop. You'll need a laptop regardless of what ecu you went with.Went ahead and pulled the trigger on this. I have read through lots of the drawbacks and still feel it is worthwhile for my scenario. I do wish they sold it without the touchscreen and including the USB cable, could get the price even lower....though I am sure the marketing folks like it just the way it is. Can I use non-Holley sensors at all or must they all be Holley? Pretty sure I bought some cheap fuel & oil pressure sensors a while back that I never wired up.
I plan on running tfi as I’m already over budget, I plan doing the initial tune myself, been watching a ton of YouTube videos and reading up so I’m gaining confidence I can get it close, I’ve already got a base tune I’m working on saved on my laptop, I plan on getting mine installed this Saturday, if I can’t get it I have a wheeling buddy that’s a Hyundai head tech and tuned my buddys Chebby powered Jeep and I think he can dial it in, if not there’s a tuner close that will do itCan you guys provide updates on your install progress?
I have a terminator x kit, just not sure when I'll install it. Are you guys using the stock distributor or holley dual sync distributor?
You plan on getting a remote or custom dyno tune afterwards?
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The airbag circuit runs down the right side and comes out of the factory harness without any cutting. The A/C circuit is a little harder because it goes all the way over to where the battery is and then jumps across with the ground actually connected over by the battery. I relocated mine to run with the injector and TFI harness on the left side of the engine.Yeah, I am sticking with TFI initially as well. I had looked into an EDIS upgrade a while back, but figure that or the Holley twin-spark can wait since my distributor is brand new. I am debating how to handle the airbag & A/C wiring. The car has no A/C, so I think I may just remove it and the airbag does not currently work, but I wouldn't mind fixing it. It is likely I will wire up the Holley without either and then hold onto the harness in case I want to add them back in later. I plan to tune it myself initially. If I run into issues over my head, I may seek out a remote tuner.
I wanted to make sure if I was running an up to date system I was supplying it with information from up to date sensors/hardware. I ditched the TFI and went Dual Sync. Especially because my stock distributor had 193k on it and I was so god damn over carrying spare TFI modules in the car from failures of them. Also I planned on way more RPM than what the stock distributor was really designed for.Can you guys provide updates on your install progress?
I have a terminator x kit, just not sure when I'll install it. Are you guys using the stock distributor or holley dual sync distributor?
You plan on getting a remote or custom dyno tune afterwards?
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Chip sucks. You can’t change it. Don’t do it. Very old tech and waste of money and massive dependence on someone else.I'm just all over the place on what I want to do. I just want my car to run right. Drivability at low speeds (45 mph or less) it has a surge hesitation. It idles fine.
I'm torn on what to do.
1) Bring car to get a dyno tune which is about an hour one way. I have a SCT chip they would use.
2) Have my car remote tuned by Decipha tuning. I'd have to buy a quarter horse chip.
3) Or install holley terminator x. Which I like the fact I'd have new wiring. Probably would need to be fine tuned.
I bought this car two years ago. The HCI setup was already on the car. No custom tune on the car. I had the ECU repaired last summer by ECU Exchange.
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Thanks for the help. There seems to be some knowledgeable remote tuners that are familiar with the terminator x. So I'd probably go that route.Chip sucks. You can’t change it. Don’t do it. Very old tech and waste of money and massive dependence on someone else.
Quarter horse is better. You can make adjustments. It functions like the chip but you can make changes to it. Still dealing with old/dated equipment like narrow band O2 sensors. Very small tuning knowledge base circle. Must learn to speak EEC4 language and terms. Using a computer that came out in 198x. Doesn’t handle high rpm well.
TermX. Massive user base across multiple platforms. Easy to use up to date software. New wiring. Faster computer and easier data logging. Wideband tuning. It’s fricken 30+ years newer. It’s like comparing a PS5 to an Atari.
Plus in another 5-10 years support for the older stuff will fall off even more. I’m a cheap ass by nature and it was a hard pill to swallow ditching my eec4 and tweecer combo. After I saw all the damaged OEM wiring as I removed it and was able to having the car running it in two days I realized my fear of the wiring was unneeded. Drivability of my car now is crazy good. I would have paid more for this system with how much better it runs.
Yes, you will want to dyno tune the car. With ANY stand alone this will yield the best results. Chances are your local tuner will be thrilled you have a Holley and will dial you in quickly.
After you set up the parameters in the hand held save that tune file on the SD card. Then load it into your laptop and assign the PWM output for your IAC. Idle tuning is a pain so don't get frustrated by it. I think the Holley struggles with the Ford IAC so don't be too picky, its really inconsistent. ALSO, don't forget to set your mechanical base timing to 10 degrees before you disassemble. Its much easier stock then on the Holley.My mind was made up when I contacted tuners and they laughed at tuning a 30 year old stock wiring and computer. Once I said Holley they said no problem bring it in, I have no doubt decipha coulda hooked me up but I don’t wanna rely on one guy. Plus the Holley is much more user friendly to me. And I live in the sticks and internet sucks and remote tuning wasn’t a good option for me
My Holley was delivered today. Can’t wait get home Friday.
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I'm just all over the place on what I want to do. I just want my car to run right. Drivability at low speeds (45 mph or less) it has a surge hesitation. It idles fine.
I'm torn on what to do.
1) Bring car to get a dyno tune which is about an hour one way. I have a SCT chip they would use.
2) Have my car remote tuned by Decipha tuning. I'd have to buy a quarter horse chip.
3) Or install holley terminator x. Which I like the fact I'd have new wiring. Probably would need to be fine tuned.
I bought this car two years ago. The HCI setup was already on the car. No custom tune on the car. I had the ECU repaired last summer by ECU Exchange.
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I've been looking at the pro m a little bit. Isn't it like 2k or more? I wonder if any vendors can get a better price?You should look into the ProM. Brand new harness, actual plug and play. Uses the MAF sensor so they claim no tuning. The members on here using also affirm no tuning required. I have the Holley but in hind sight should have gotten the ProM. By the time I assembled all the parts to make the Holley work like the ProM and got a $500 tune, I could have bought the ProM. If I do another fox it will be ProM or carbureted. lol
I wonder if ya swap a Chevy throttle body and iac over onto a rock style intake. I know they do it with the high ram and carb style Efi intakes. Never looked into it personally. Might idle better and easier to tune. Mine isles great now so I want a good idle going forwardAfter you set up the parameters in the hand held save that tune file on the SD card. Then load it into your laptop and assign the PWM output for your IAC. Idle tuning is a pain so don't get frustrated by it. I think the Holley struggles with the Ford IAC so don't be too picky, its really inconsistent. ALSO, don't forget to set your mechanical base timing to 10 degrees before you disassemble. Its much easier stock then on the Holley.