pretty common complaint. Clean your gov and OD servo if you want to go through all that work.

 

I know how to get to the governor, its in the tailshaft, but where is the OD servo??

mike

 

hehe the servo is kind of a pain to get to.. gotta drop the trans pan and remove the whole valvebody again.. then you will see a big round disk with a big B stamped on it, remove the snap ring and the cover, piston, and spring will just pop out. Your piston apply rod might have varnish on it.. I don't know if silverfox would suggest this also but If there is a build up I would take some steel wool and polish it back smooth removing all the GICK. I don't think the servo piston apply rod has a sealing surface so you SHOULD be OK.. reinstalling the servo in the car is a PAIN.. You will need a locking welders C clamp to install the servo since you have to compress the servo spring in order to install the snap ring..

Silverfox do you suggest any trans flush.. like seafoam that is supposed to free up stuck valves and remove varnish? it only stays in the system for like 5 minutes.. you drive it up to operating temp and then drain the tranny fluid change filter and refill.

 

I have done that, it works fine for some applications - like restoring old junk trannies that you don't want to pull out. I use B12 Chemtool from Oriely's. It does the job. I think you could get the same affect with pouring paint thinner into the system. Though these mirical cures do work a little...unfortunatly it won't find itself into the all the valves or servos while sitting in your driveway - you would have to drive it - and I am not ready to reccomend that procedure.

 

Seems like a common complaint after a shift kit. Same thing happens in my '90 AOD after a rebuild and Baumann kit. The governor was diassembled and cleaned well, and the servo was brand new. I just live with it or drop it into D when I start to slow down.

 

I DO NOT see the problem.

do not drive around with the shifter in OD!

also, i DO NOT think it is the governor, sorry silverfox...... but i think it's your tv set TOO HIGH............

is your 1-2 shift occuring about 5 seconds later than it should under light throttle driving (if you drive at light throttle ) this is a sign of a tv set too high, 2-3 always is short.... also, if your car will not go into od till ~65 or better under light acceleration, this is a problem with tv too high.


when i changed my tv setting from 35 @ idle, to zero at idle, I got back a TON of drivability..... i hate that "won't shift till 3k" bull**** under light throttle.....and my WOT shift point is 55-5600 rpm on the 1-2, with zero at idle. (btw, i have ~40 by 750-800 rpm, could this be the sonnax boost valve i put in, why it rises so fast?)

 

I have the boost valve also and a buemann kit and my OD doesn't drop out when comming to a stop until 30 or so mph. SO I also have the same situation he is speaking of - - I was understanding that it didn't shift out of OD till even less than that. Cause that is common - I like my TV pressure tight myself. I drop it to D anytime I am under 50 mph anyway.....I am anal about OD bands, I don't like abusing them. You should have 5psi at idel.....that is what I reccomend - and go up from there only. Zero is too low IMHO.

 

Ah....i thnink I know. The B&M kit raises the pressure more than what the TV pressure is accualy set at I beleive....don't they use spacers the crank the pressure up?

 

I have the Baumann and boost control valve and I don't have a clunk on downshift but BOY DO I HAVE A CLUNK ON UPSHIFT!!!!

I did have a sticky OD servo when I first rebuilt my transmission and I took it to the shop and they said it would eventually work itself out, they said it just needed to lube up to work properly.. and if I just kept driving it, it would get better...

 

DAMNIT WE REALLY NEED AN AOD FORUM!!!!!!

 

but....................


didn't you burn up another OD band scott?

???

(not tryin to be an ass, but you know what they say, problems rarely work "themselves" out.........

and what clunk on upshift? you mean if you let off to let it shift, or just normal upshifting??????? mine will clunk if i am hard on it, and let off to let it shift...

 

Yeah my 3rd gear clutch pack is most definately toasted along with the band.. some how my TV pressure slipped too low (either a stuck TV valve or bad cable adjustment) either way it smoked the clutches... but up until I broke the direct drive and had to replace it, the transmission was fine.. It worked fine for a year.. Then during this time I got a beater car and I think by letting the mustang sit up for weeks at a time between driving it, this made all the fluid in the valve body slowly drain into the pan so when I did run it... everything had to be relubes and one of the valves stuck and didn't allow proper clutch pressure... bada-bing, bada-boom.. time for a rebuild!

(when it was running HA) It clunked on upshift into 4th but only when I would get to cruising speed and let off.. and I mean CLUNK! I think it is more the shift kit than the A+ servo.. I set the 3-4 shift on Medium because I wanted a quick application of the band (so it wouldn't slip) but this is the only adverse side affect to that choice (the clunk) I love the positive shift into OD. I'm sure it is not hurting the band at all!

 

I hate the clunk, but oh well......but we are not talking about clunks, we are talking about not downshiffting soon enough.

 

I am kinda curios why you )silverfox) run a AO-DOMINATOR, instead of a home built! ??



anyhoo, wonder if worn u joints, worn tranny, and/or motor mounts, and too much backlash in the rear gears make this clunk worse, or have no affect on the clunks......... mine is not too bad, but the last car with an aod. it was very severe.....

 

I have a motorsport drive shaft and the clunk is a little less noticeable with it.. I am sure the clunk would be amplified by slop in a bad U joint.. hell it might lead to a bad u joint..

 

Because I think he bought the AO-Dominator KIT and installed it in his transmission.. you can buy JUST the kit or buy the AO-Dominator transmission pre-built.

check out www.ford-aod.com for what their kits include!

It's quite a good deal!!!

Fits Ford AOD transmissions 1980-1990 with cast iron drum. You get the #5-AOD Alto Red Eagle master rebuild kit for AOD transmissions. It comes with all Red Eagle clutches and Kolene steels, high performance direct RedEagle PowerPack, the #2 Superior A+ servo that is 11% larger than Ford's A servo and the #7X Superior Posi Shift Pac that has 2 stages. This is the same high performance shift correction kit we use in the A O Dominator and the Dominator Junior transmissions. All three for $370.00.

I think he said he didn't care for their superior shift kit.....

 

word, thats why i did not buy it, wanted a bauman or tg......... but baumans order process is ghey, and my local tranny shop had it in stock............so, tg it was!

 

You said your trans downshftied from overdrive at 30mph. Mine doesn't until I am almost stopped!!! I 'd say 5-10 mph.

 

That why you didn't buy the assembled AO-Dominator?? or buy the kit?? I'm sure you could add and remove parts of the "KIT" and they would deduct the cost of the shift kit

and how is baumanns ordering process gay? They are great to deal with.. I ordered a bunch of parts from them.. my boost control valve, lockup shaft, A+ overdrive servo and their shift kit. I know I could probably find the parts cheaper if I had shopped around but Id rather give them all my service and save on having to have every part shipped individually from seperate vendors.

 

well, baumann's process i do not like because you print out this form, fill in all the crap, and then fax it.......... thats why..

I had a website, with hundreds of parts available, they have only a few on their site, I was able to make a shopping basket, buy now icons, and everything else using Dreamweaver Ultra-dev........ why can't they?
I do not like the idea of faxing my credit card info, so the cleaning lady can have all my ****. Now, on a secure website, i have alot more faith....
anyway, like i said before, it was the kit i was going with, untill i found they have not changed their ordering process in TEN YEARS!
I have bought from them before, in 1994 or 95....it was a hassle then, and it is now.
knows.
maybe because we are in a different time zone.......who knows. but calling was also beyong a PITA.........kinda like dealing with GER 10 years ago...LOL

Yes, I admit it........I dealt with them once

 

I call it the Dominator so people will ask me what it is.....not that I will send everyone to TransmissionCenter.net - but after dealing with them a few times and building AODs and 4R with thier kits they are nice people and they let you subtract or add anything you want to the kit and you still get the discount for the purchase being a "kit". I don't have anything else to call the tranny really......but yes i did buy the kit and subtracted all the **** I didn't need and added other stuff. One year ago I built the AOD that is in my LSC now for about $800.....after building many more trannies with kits from various places including Bulkpart.com I could build the EXACT SAME SPECS mentioned above for under that easy and still have a decent converter purchased.
A tranny tinker guy like myself still has to get the parts from the wholsale public market if I want no hassle "kits" - did you know NAPA sells a Master AOD kit for around $95.00 and that is EVERYTHING minus some bushings - and it will still hold 400hp if built correctly. There are two local transmission supply houses that feed the local trans shops parts with shipments everyday - If i need somthing odd, I just call up and have it added to the nearest trans shop parts list and pay over the phone. The local shop knows me now, so they hold the parts at the counter for me to pick up.....you would think they would be pissed that I use thier shop as a drop off point to build my own transmissions at home....I guess they don't think I am taking any of thier business.

 

When I ordered from Baumann I just gave them my info, CC #, and everything shipped the next day accept my Precision industries lockup shaft which had to be dropped shipped from the factory.. This was about 2 years ago when I ordered everything..

 

I have that same late downshifting BS, plus flaring into OD,worse under light throttle but diminishes progressively with heavier throttle. I've got a stamped steel direct drum with the Alto clutch pack, a 4 plate intermediate clutch, a Baumann shift kit in a reman valve body, and a 2500 lockup stall. The trans needed freshing before I put in my new 351, but I was gone out of state on a job so had my wife take it to a "reputable" local rebuilder to go thru it and replace any plates, band, etc, as needed. He found a sticky gov, and I'm thinking he put in a non-Mustang lower rpm governor because now it shifts way early going up and won't downshift till the motor gets down to 750 rpm.

Also, after putting in the Baumann kit while reinstalling the trans,
when I set the tv pressure to the recommended 33 with warm trans in drive, it acted like the pressure was way low and slipped into all gears. Had to set the pressure up to 40 to get decent shifts, but it still goes down to zero at idle without the gauge block. The 1-2 and 2-3 shifts are firm and precise, although earlier than they used to be, espec at light throttle (like 1500 rpm!) Course, that might be a lower rpm governor, too??

I'm wondering about the flaring into and out of OD, though. Would some of those extra holes in the sep plate for the Baumann kit cause different fluid flow rates between filling the OD servo (it's an A) and releasing the forward clutch (faster than stock)?

I'll get these damned AOD's figured out one of these days!

 

Does quality fluid really make a difference in how the automatic performs? Say like the B&M trick shift or other quality synthetics, basically what I am asking, is it worth the money at 3-5 dollars a quart x 12+ quarts?

mike

 

What works well for AODs is the Mercon V that is used in
4R70W's. Has a higher heat tolerance and more additives.

Not maybe quite as good as the high buck aftermarket
synthetics, but very good for the price and a definite
improvement, and plenty adequate for a street trans.

Perhaps more important would be to add a good plate
type cooler - I got a 7000 gvw Hayden for about $50.