I would say weld a plate over the existing holes and redrill the holes through new steel. Otherwise run a big washer behind the bolt head or get some hardened shoulder bolts.

 

Yes, that needs repairing. Your best bet if you're making power like that is probably to weld in some torque box reinforcements like UMI's. They'll provide their own perfectly-sized, perfectly-shaped holes for your LCA's and tie the load paths up into the body instead of just the weak torque box.

Southside machine bars have to be the worst thing to ever happen to torque boxes.

 

Who makes these UMI reinforcements? One person suggested that I weld a washerover the hole or try these

http://wildridesracecars.com/store/product.php?productid=16176&cat=249&page=1

 

These are great.

It's up to you. repair the hole and possibly have it happen again..

install UMI "battle boxes" which would help..

up to you, do you feel like installing those wild rides boxes? if so, go for it.. if not, the UMI ones would be the route I would take.

If someone else is doing the install, pay the extra money and get the wild rides ones.

 

Who?

LOL!

Easiest thing would be to weld an appropriately sized washer (in the correct spot, of course), and add the "WhoamI" reinforcements per MFE's rec...

What's up Fraser?!

Nay!

 

Bringing back the dead, I've got the same problem in my 92 hatch. What's the best way to determine the correct placement for the washer ???

 

10.9 and crank up the torque.

 

Is that 10.9 in from the forward portion or the tq box to center of lca bolt ??

 

TTT bump...

 

10.9 is the grade of bolt,it would be best to just ignore that post all together.

 

It's got 10.9 grade now, just need to know where to position the washer before welds.

 

Anybody???

 

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All these stangs, and no reply. I can't be the only one with this problem. Any help is appreciated, don't want to fubar my fox.

 

get a lower tq reinforcement plate and it will show you where the hole is

 

Allready have the kit installed, its now ovaled out aswell.

 

Something else is wrong then...I would guess you are using the wrong sized bolts. They are probably to small around which caused excess slack between the mount and bolt and the caused it to bore itself out.

Your only option is to upgrade the bolt sizes.

Drill out the mounting points, drill out your control arm mounting holes and install new hardware that you know is the correct size.

I don't this on my car with MM lower control arms cause the holes were bored out slightly. I was able to use 1/2" hardware and all was good. If need be you can go up to 5/8"....


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Yes, you should upgrade bolt size. I use a 3/4 bolt directly through the rod end on chassis side and 9/16 everywhere else. Get a good 9/16 drill bit to enlarge the holes.

The 3/4 holes I think we used a stepped bit.

UPR carries larger bolt kits, my 9/16 stuff came from them. UPR uses grade 8 bolts. The 3/4 we got from McMaster Carr. I do not think they were grade 8 as they are big enough where it is less of an issue.


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Sounds like that could be the problem, lca's were on it when I bought it. Does the kit include the bushing sleave? Thx for the help..