Only plug the lower port on the water pump. The upper port is a bypass and goes to the t-stat housing. The ECT sensor will need a 1/2" NPT to 3/8" NPT reducer bushing (brass, can be found a Lowes or Home Depot) to fit into the lower intake manifold where the tube was attached.

 

Just do this

 

awesome, thanks for the info man!

 

not mine but i keep the pic so when i need to do it!

 

View attachment 67342

Waste of time and money right there. Connecting that lower port back up to the top isn't necessary, plus that brass T fitting doesn't put the ECT sensor in the flowing coolant that well

 

The port that is more toward the passenger side and goes to the heater tubes/core. That port is only used for the heater core. If you are not running heat then you can plug it.

BTW, those ports are on the suction side of the pump, just like the port from the radiator. The water flows from the pump into the block and heads from the front to the rear then up into the lower intake towards the front water outlet (t-stat housing). The top port connects to the t-stat housing and acts as a bypass to allow water through to the pump when the t-stat is closed. The heated water that goes to the core goes into the tube with the ECT sensor, through core, and back to the pump through that lower port.

 

Do you have to run that bypass? I am trying to clean up the engine bay and it is nearly impossible to make a stainless hose or anything nice to fit there.

 

I run my ECT in the port just behind the T-Stat and the sending unit for my gauge on the water port behind the dizzy.

I kept my heater so I ran a hose off the lower (larger) water pump fitting to the firewall. I then tapped into the rear of the manifold at the cyl head water jacket...from there to the firewall.

For my bypass on the water pump to the t/stat housing I made a 1/2" pipe with -8an tube nuts and sleeves for the -8an fittings I put on the water pump and t/stat housing. Take a straight length of 1/2" aluminum fuel line. Miter the tube at a 45* rotate the two peices unil 90* is achieved and tig together. Slid on nuts and sleaves and flare (or flare first and weld last, either way).

 

Cut and paste from my build thread

New water pump to weld the -an fittings to. The steel pipes would not come out so they got cut off.

I just need to get it tig'd up tomorrow and start building the heater hoses.


I can not see these pics so tell me if they are the bypass build or not?

 

I can not see these pics so tell me if they are the bypass build or not?

Most of them. This one really tells the story best.

Shows just how close the fittings are for the bypass.

 

Would it be ok to relocate the driver's side temp sensor to the rear passenger side of my track heat lower intake? I'd like the sensor and ugly wires from my aftermarket temp gauge to be out of sight

 

yes

 

Those metal tubes are pressed in. If the pump is off the motor they can be pulled out and then the holes tapped with a pipe thread so a fitting can be screwed in.

Might be easier for those that don't have the means to weld aluminum

 

This is a pic for the OP, finished it today. What do you guys think?

 

Looks good.

Is that a stainless ARP bolt kit for the waterpump?

 

Yeah it's a kit from totallystainless.com, it comes with bolts for the timing cover, water pump, thermostat housing(couldn't use), oil pan, distributor hold down, and lower intake.

 

Ah very nice. I've been thinking about picking up stuff from them. I bought my car half assembled so lot of my engine accessories, upper intake, TB, etc, are put together with whatever random bolts were lying around that would fit.

It's nice to be able to see some pictures of their stuff and it looks good. Thanks for sharing.

 

If you want to clean up the look of the hose clamps, Gates Power Grip clamps make a clean look. They are basically like heat shrink tubing...slip on then heat with heat gun or hair dryer. Only downside is that if you need to remove the hose you need to cut the clamp off.

They are available at NAPA and through Jegs, etc.

Gates Power Grip Clamps - JEGS

 

That's pretty slick.

 

I just did this. I tried the brass reducer way from Lowes, the reducer did not want to screw into the aluminium.

I was looking around the junk yard and found the perfect part. The 5.0 in the Lincoln towncar, and possibly similar models, have a tee that screws into the lower manifold on one side, accepts the coolant sensor on another and a hose fitting on the top. I can try to get a picture later. All you need to do figure out a hose, which I have yet to do.

This keeps most of the original water path except going to the firewall.